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Discussion Starter #41
Whats the burnt wire in this picture. Needs to be repaired.
View attachment 14003

All the wires to the fuel pump need perfect connections due to high current draw.

Check for vacuum leaks, the intake and hoses to intake connections must be tight from afm to throttle body.
Oil filler cap on, dip stick in, no unmetered air past AFM.
ISC valve could be bad. EGR valve could be stuck open.
Will give it a look tomorrow. I completely forgot about the fact that the connection on the airway closer to the throttle body is a separate section and just kind poked together. I do not know what I was thinking skipping that when I had it in mind yesterday. I'll do something to at least temporarily get a good seal on the connection there and see what happens before looking into the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Alrighty. It’s been a few days. For now, I duct taped the connection that was loose from AFM to TB and it no longer shuts off. Was gonna see how well it drives today. Earlier today, it was about the normal; it doesn’t idle so I gotta give it gas to stay on. Ran to operating temperature after taking it around the neighborhood. God knows when the last time that thing saw a road

Anyways, things were actually doing great. Discovered there’s an exhaust leak at the cat—no big deal until I’m at a stoplight further down the line.

But so far, it, after around 2,000 rpm or after giving it a lot of throttle, it likes to cut power completely before giving it back, then cutting off again. So the best I could do was about 20mph in 1st before it stopped running smoothly, but hey, I’m not complaining. It got out of the driveway.

Gonna look into it more on the forums tomorrow but so far I’m thinking fully seal the air connection, some more gas won’t hurt, some sea foam in the gas (cause why not), and search around to find out checking the EGR and idle control. Still not 100% smooth on idle and, not sure if by coincidence or not, RPM’s dropped a bit when flipping the lights on. However, 900-1100 rpm at idle is a lot better than before. I’m just happy I’m getting somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
So interesting find today...

Possibly figured out a fuel pressure problem. The hose to the fuel pressure regulator was not seated correctly and we were able to squeeze fuel out of it. Turns out the clamp slid down. Slapped a new one on and it seems to be hooked up well now.

And now the interesting thing...the fuel filter is completely bypassed. I assume because it went bad and it was easier to bypass instead of replacing, but I have no idea.

Anyways, replaced my duct tape job on the airway thing. That fixed the “drops to almost stalling when above 2000rpm” problem, until it didn’t. Drive it again today and was fine. Brought it back and it started doing it again. I want to say the duct tape just melted or came loose again since, of course, it’s just temporary until I can find either a coupler or new thing entirely.

Still backfires a bit and idle is hit or miss, though. Still need to tear off the EGR valve and inspect it. Just need more than two hours and to figure out how to do it first.

Will probably try and find the middle airway thing piece at a junkyard assuming I can find one. It’s difficult to even find my truck in a yard near here, and it’s only a 2003 Tundra.

Thermostat gasket leaks—also no big deal, like $3 or so and it looks easy to get to. Radiator may be leaking too but after refilling it today it didn’t take much more to get it to the top.

Also, before I go draining oil, the dipstick on these cars doesn’t read high all the time, does it? I know that was a problem with earlier models of my truck, but always showing low. Just incase before I go draining oil. Also, now that I’m thinking about it, the oil pressure gauge and fuel level gauge seem to be out of commission, but I think fuel gauge is because I didn’t put the fuel pump bracket back in like it should be yet—if they’re related in some way. Like through the metal piece in the tank or however it was. As of now, things are just thrown together for easy access until everything is doing ok. Then they’ll get put back together 100% as I go on to both eliminate potential problems and safety and presentability.

Other than some funky shifter bushings, shifted all the way through smooth-ish and kept power till we got back. Holds temperature and all, idles when it wants to, and there’s some hope.
 

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Fuel pump and fuel level are separate connections.Must run a fuel filter, probably have clogged injector screens.
Oil level on dip stick is accurate.Backfire and idle problems more than likely due to lean fuel problems. Fix air and vacuum leaks and check for stuck open egr valve.I would pull and have injectors cleaned and flush fuel system.New radiator and hoses and a full tune-up.
 

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DAMN! This is a good thread. You are in North Carolina and there are NO emission requirements.You may bypass the EGR to save some blood letting .EGR stuck open will lean out the Lamda (AFR)and cause weird problems,indeed.

Test the EGR with a vacuum source when running.
If it's stuck OPEN,it will need to be stuck back closed.A high idle speed is most commonly a vacuum leak..somewhere. Won't rev above 2 K? I'll guess a lack of fuel,not too much air.Timing? NO.

I have been through this type of diagnosis B-4 and it's really hard to be an armchair quarterback.
The photos are MOST helpful.Someone else (previous owner)wiring and bypasses.
Nightmare time.The TSRM is OK to start with but NOT the last go-to place.
I have enjoyed the ride,so far.Timmy,you say that you are a rookie. Not anymore.

Yes,an extensive plugs,wires,cap&rotor is a good idea . The plug boots can be problematic when they cause the wire to pop out from the sparkies. There are a large PILE of ground wires on the drivers side of the intake manifold + the back of the engine to the firewall.

I didn't see the charging voltage in your video.Can you measure it at the battery please?13 + volts is OK.
Perhaps the battery is too far gone to be of any use.

Bad gasoline?Any moisture in the gas tank will sink to the bottom,where the fuel pump pick up is.The gasoline will float on top of the water,if there is any. You are a fan of Sea Foam? OK.IF you choose to drain part of the gas tank out,the water will come out,first. 3/8 " ratchet will unscrew the tank drain plug,but watch out! It will come out like a fire hose. You said that the gas tank cap was not there? For how long?Bad news.Crap in the tank,maybe.
Our Ethanol fuel absorbs moisture out of the air.It's OK to run it in our cars because they like it.
Fact: Our cars rust.Inside and outside.

Please continue.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
DAMN! This is a good thread. You are in North Carolina and there are NO emission requirements.You may bypass the EGR to save some blood letting .EGR stuck open will lean out the Lamda (AFR)and cause weird problems,indeed.

Test the EGR with a vacuum source when running.
If it's stuck OPEN,it will need to be stuck back closed.A high idle speed is most commonly a vacuum leak..somewhere. Won't rev above 2 K? I'll guess a lack of fuel,not too much air.Timing? NO.

I have been through this type of diagnosis B-4 and it's really hard to be an armchair quarterback.
The photos are MOST helpful.Someone else (previous owner)wiring and bypasses.
Nightmare time.The TSRM is OK to start with but NOT the last go-to place.
I have enjoyed the ride,so far.Timmy,you say that you are a rookie. Not anymore.

Yes,an extensive plugs,wires,cap&rotor is a good idea . The plug boots can be problematic when they cause the wire to pop out from the sparkies. There are a large PILE of ground wires on the drivers side of the intake manifold + the back of the engine to the firewall.

I didn't see the charging voltage in your video.Can you measure it at the battery please?13 + volts is OK.
Perhaps the battery is too far gone to be of any use.

Bad gasoline?Any moisture in the gas tank will sink to the bottom,where the fuel pump pick up is.The gasoline will float on top of the water,if there is any. You are a fan of Sea Foam? OK.IF you choose to drain part of the gas tank out,the water will come out,first. 3/8 " ratchet will unscrew the tank drain plug,but watch out! It will come out like a fire hose. You said that the gas tank cap was not there? For how long?Bad news.Crap in the tank,maybe.
Our Ethanol fuel absorbs moisture out of the air.It's OK to run it in our cars because they like it.
Fact: Our cars rust.Inside and outside.

Please continue.
I appreciate it honestly. I'm trying to be as detailed as possible for others with similar issues and for myself, in case it helps someone in the future. And of course, 82turbosupra has been an amazing help the entire way through.

Anyways, I have been trying to figure out an EGR delete. At least, for the moment, just bypassing it before pulling it out and putting blocking plates on because I'm a bit concerned about drilling into the intake manifold, as other threads have mentioned. Spark has been consistent and good and the battery is around 13-14v when running based on the voltage gauge on the dash. I believe the problem is just the airway thing, as I redid the duct tape again and voila, ran almost perfectly and drove again today. It did what it did before; idle was iffy till it got to operating temperature, then idled high but smooth (900-1000rpm), and revved freely. Tomorrow I was gonna try and tackle an EGR clean if I can manage to get the S-pipe off the back of the motor engine. If not, I think the big bolt connecting the EGR to the pipe should allow me to take the valve off anyways, assuming it actually comes loose.

The tank also appeared empty when I pulled the pump, at least in that side, but I will drain if absolutely necessary. So far I've just filled it up with 87 and a bit of seafoam.

Also has new wires, plugs, rotor, distributor (although a junkyard distributor as I mentioned--reads the same as the one that was on the car), and cap cleaned up nicely.

Fuel pump and fuel level are separate connections.Must run a fuel filter, probably have clogged injector screens.
Oil level on dip stick is accurate.Backfire and idle problems more than likely due to lean fuel problems. Fix air and vacuum leaks and check for stuck open egr valve.I would pull and have injectors cleaned and flush fuel system.New radiator and hoses and a full tune-up.
Will definitely look into the injectors here soon, maybe tomorrow if they are not awful to get to. I also don't think running lines back into a new fuel filter should be too too bad, but I will look into that as well. I'm mainly just worried about fitting down in there and dealing with flaring the lines and all.


Overall, though, next step is EGR either bypass if I can figure it out, or cleaning it out. Seeing the amount of crap in filter next to it has me concerned, as just that tiny little connection that the heatproof hose goes over had an enormous amount of crap in it. Mainly worried about the little freeze plug thing in the intake manifold and hoping I don't crack anything in trying to remove that. From what looked like the only thread on cleaning out the EGR system since it was so detailed and popular.

Unfortunately, though, the nearest junkyard with an air assembly on either a Celica or Celica Supra is over 200 miles away, so for now it is just duct tape until I can find an actual rectangular coupler.

Unless it rains or I do not end up getting around to it, I will update tomorrow.
 

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I would try to avoid the EGR removal,if I were you!!!!!!I thought that you were exempt from emission testing!
Perhaps that I was foolish in assuming that you were.
Voltage: GOOD.
There are threads on fuel filter replacements. I have done TWO and both were a nightmare from hell.
Satan Lloyd Wright designed and engineered that abomination!
Skip the injector cleaning,unless you think otherwise.
I can mail you a couple of intake manifold PLUGS,if you want to go that route,Timmy.FREE.
Ask me about that fuel filter replacement.
The EGR collects CRAP,big time.

Some silicone or Shoe Goo is a good quick fix for and intake tube,+ tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I would try to avoid the EGR removal,if I were you!!!!!!I thought that you were exempt from emission testing!
Perhaps that I was foolish in assuming that you were.
Voltage: GOOD.
There are threads on fuel filter replacements. I have done TWO and both were a nightmare from hell.
Satan Lloyd Wright designed and engineered that abomination!
Skip the injector cleaning,unless you think otherwise.
I can mail you a couple of intake manifold PLUGS,if you want to go that route,Timmy.FREE.
Ask me about that fuel filter replacement.
The EGR collects CRAP,big time.

Some silicone or Shoe Goo is a good quick fix for and intake tube,+ tape.
My county and the neighboring county do not have to worry about emissions; just safety, so I should be good. Well, after replacing the lenses on the brake and clearing lights. And I'll check and see if we have any IM plugs at work tomorrow. You don't gotta worry about postage and all that. I really appreciate it, though. I might take you up on it if it is too much to get them through my work, though.

Is it possible to do a temporary bypass on the EGR, though, like blocking off any vacuum lines or anything?
 

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YES! If it is stuck open: problem.
Stuck closed,no sweat.
Are you sure that you want to open up the intake manifold? If so,I will mail you some plugs(2). FREE.
Bypass the EGR. Just remove the vacuum signal. A BB works well.Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
YES! If it is stuck open: problem.
Stuck closed,no sweat.
Are you sure that you want to open up the intake manifold? If so,I will mail you some plugs(2). FREE.
Bypass the EGR. Just remove the vacuum signal. A BB works well.Done.
I kind of hope it is stuck open, since that would likely be the problem.

Anyways, I mean the little plug in the IM based on this thread How to clean out your EGR system. (56k beware)

First few pictures won't work for me, but later pictures seem to show that it is the metal piece right in line with the throttle body on the IM, if that makes sense. I gather that it is just beating that out, clear that, then beat a new one in (carefully).

I'll probably block the vacuum signal off first, though, since it's a LITTLE quicker than going through cleaning the whole system out.
 

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It ain't so fun to clean out the intake manifold.
BLOCK the EGR signal.
I drilled a small hole into it and YANKED it out. I'm good that way.
Not too much fun.
I looked for the photo that I took... I'm lame for looking for photos. I have it,but cannot find the one that I need to show you.
I'll dig into my PIX and load into my photo hosting site. Please stand by.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Tried to block off the EGR line. I just tried taking off the line that’s going to the EGR and blocking it off but it didn’t really do anything, assuming that’s even the right one.


First video shows what it usually does, assuming running well. At 2000, nice and smooth, then starts popping more as it gets to lower rpms. I just let my foot off the gas as it goes down.
Second video is a start with gas, then without, then how it likes to idle—at least sometimes. Later, I tried to drive but then went back to dropping off at about 1800rpm. The way it does it, is it will get to the rpm that the throttle commands, then drop to like 500, then jump back up, repeat. Did it after it warmed up, but it idled with no problem at about 1200 after it started doing that. Tried to retape it to no avail, but pulling on the duct did drop it down, so I think—and hope—it’s still just not tight and the valve cover is just heating up the tape too much. Especially since it was when I pulled the bottom part back.

I did pick up some silicone stuff; it’s the permatex silicone mega black gasket maker flexible stuff. Not sure if that’s a good idea but I may go ahead and try it tomorrow.

There’s also a whistle-sounding noise coming from around the power steering reservoir. Didn’t really see any vacuum lines around, though.

If I can end up getting that duct nice and secure then it would eliminate a very large problem and can look at everything else a whole lot better. I mean I can get a replacement duct but there’s no connection for the vacuum line that comes out of it, which is the issue with that.

Anyways, once the duct is figured out then it’ll be onto trying to find other vacuum leaks and, if that still doesn’t do it, I’ll pull the injectors and all.
 

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On my '84, power steering pump there are vacuum lines that cause the "idle-up "during low speed power steering function. A vacuum leak will cause a high idle.A plugged" PCV" will cause a low idle.
I wonder if the previous owner dicked around with the mixture adjustment on the Air Fuel Meter screws. I have.
If you chase a vacuum leak with carburetor cleaner,be careful! A propane bottle works OK,too.
 

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I would correct all the air and vacuum leaks first. Check the timing.Maybe add a fuel pressure gauge on injector rail.
More than likely if the car was not running a fuel filter, the injectors are not spraying the correct volume or pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I would correct all the air and vacuum leaks first. Check the timing.Maybe add a fuel pressure gauge on injector rail.
More than likely if the car was not running a fuel filter, the injectors are not spraying the correct volume or pattern.
That’s the plan for now. My manager has some intercooler pipe he’s giving me for the duct, which should hopefully deal with that issue. I also forgot to mention that the vacuum connector closer to the throttle body is not even hooked up. It’s plugged off from it, interestingly enough. But after that, it’ll be air leaks and texting fuel pressure more than likely.
That picture is a bit old, but you can see the big tube, which I initially thought was PCV, is plugged and not connected to the port closer to the TB.

On my '84, power steering pump there are vacuum lines that cause the "idle-up "during low speed power steering function. A vacuum leak will cause a high idle.A plugged" PCV" will cause a low idle.
I wonder if the previous owner dicked around with the mixture adjustment on the Air Fuel Meter screws. I have.
If you chase a vacuum leak with carburetor cleaner,be careful! A propane bottle works OK,too.
I honestly wouldn’t doubt it. I keep meaning to check what could be a simple problem and turn the throttle body screw fully in, too, just in case. And Ill look more into the vacuum lines regarding power steering. I only heard the whistle when I gave it some throttle, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Alright, I know it’s been awhile but I got around to doing everything.

New intake fixed most everything. I further proved my ignorance by suggesting the vacuum line was PCV when it was very clearly the idle air control. At least I’m pretty sure.

Anyways, new intake, new hoses with everything on there and PCV hose, ran FLAWLESSLY. Only problem is idle did not go down after warming up.

Drive up and down the road to make sure everything was fine, put a new oil filter and new oil in. 10w-30 synthetic. smoked a bit more out of the exhaust pipe after that, so I should’ve probably went with 20w-50 or 20w-40 or something.

However, I get back and there’s fuel POURING from where the tank is. Dropped the tank today and discovered two lines were plugged. The lines that were going from the pump (return and sending) were fine. However, the line that looks like a vent coming from the square hole beside of fuel pump was plugged, as well as another line coming from somewhere up front. The latter line was the one that burst and was sending gas everywhere.
I wasn’t sure what to do, so I just went ahead and hooked them together with a new hose just in case that was was it was supposed to be, because theoretically the gas would just go back into the tank and it would be the same. I screwed something up evidently, though, as now it sounds as if it’s running on like 5 cylinders, reba slowly, and just doesn’t sound right. It ran perfect even with the gas leaking out of the line, so I’m not sure how those lines are supposed to actually be hooked up. I think I have some pictures I can link if needed.
 

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This car is..FIGHTING you!
You have burned more calories the last few days that I spend in a week!
This ain't much help:
Leaning over the drivers side fender,the PCV is just to your right of the throttle body.
High idle usually means a vacuum leak,but last week,mine wouldn't idle down.
The coolant temp sender needs to see coolant to tell the ECU what do do.I had a bubble in the system.I melted a hose last week.
Coolant sensor is the right side one. It may have a broken connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
This car is..FIGHTING you!
You have burned more calories the last few days that I spend in a week!
This ain't much help:
Leaning over the drivers side fender,the PCV is just to your right of the throttle body.
High idle usually means a vacuum leak,but last week,mine wouldn't idle down.
The coolant temp sender needs to see coolant to tell the ECU what do do.I had a bubble in the system.I melted a hose last week.
Coolant sensor is the right side one. It may have a broken connector.
I’m mainly trying to figure out the fuel hose situation at the tank now since that seems to be the issue at the moment. After trying the fix, it’s all screwed up.
 
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