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Discussion Starter #61
I did look at the TSRM as well as an AutoZone diagram of the lines, too. The only thing I can guess is that the blocked off hoses go together, but if that’s the case, it’s not even possible for fuel to even have been getting in that one line.
 

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The TSRM does not help at all. How could the vent hose be spurting out raw fuel. Where is it coming from?
The (new) running on 5 is a development.
Is there a problem with the RETURN line?That line is spewing fuel?
Has the vapor canister been bypassed? See the lame illustration:
I'm sorry for more questions than answers here,Timmy.

BTW,I'll suspect that you are over 200 pounds and has multiple tattoos.My Matco man was that way.
Monty Python:
 

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The canister should absorb fuel vapors (from that line from the tank). Then on cold starts, the ECU should drive the solenoid under the intake manifold, so it suck air/fume from the canister back into the intake.
The 2 wire connector by the AFM is the Fuel pump check connector. When grounded, the fuel pump should run.

The EFI MAIN RELAY#2 feeds power to the injectors (and igniter) . Does it trigger when putting key at run? The BLACK-RED wire split in two somewhere. On feeds the coil/igniter, one feed the resistor. Validate there is power at the resistor, single wire plug when at ON .
 

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Need a picture of fuel lines, remove gas tank cap and start car check for any pressure at filler neck. The line blew due to high tank pressure. The check valve on gas cap should have vented (clog with rust ?).Replace cap. Remove line from charcoal canister to fuel tank, should be able to blow air back to tank.Leave vent hose disconnected and tie up end higher than fill tube and test drive and see if runs ok. Then canister has check valve failure
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The TSRM does not help at all. How could the vent hose be spurting out raw fuel. Where is it coming from?
The (new) running on 5 is a development.
Is there a problem with the RETURN line?That line is spewing fuel?
Has the vapor canister been bypassed? See the lame illustration:
I'm sorry for more questions than answers here,Timmy.

BTW,I'll suspect that you are over 200 pounds and has multiple tattoos.My Matco man was that way.
Monty Python:
Nope, just 140 with no tattoos haha. Love Monty Python.

But out of the three hoses in the TSRM, 2 were connected and one was blocked off, with another hose coming from a hardline blocked off.

If I remember correctly, the larger hose on the fuel pump is the sending hose while the smaller one is a return line. Those seem fine. They go to to hard lines.

Beside the fuel pump is a square hole thing. That has a line coming out of it. According to the TSRM, that should go to a charcoal canister somewhere and the air intake. It was plugged off.

The last hose was the problem. That hose was blocked off as well. However, it burst and gas started going everywhere. I figured this hose went to square thing’s line, but that would mean gas is not supposed to be in it. In fact, judging by the TSRM, it shouldn’t be possible for gas to even be in that line.

Anyways, my thought process was, “It worked fine before so if I just hook these up, the gas should just go right back into the fuel tank.”

And now it barely runs at all. Slow revs, sounds like 4-5 cylinders, and very right.

I’m gonna pull the distributor cap and make sure I didn’t get oil in that by accident when I changed the oil, but unless it is a wild coincidence, it ran perfect when I drove it up the driveway to the flat spot so I could drop the tank. Only after the attempted fix did it start this.
 

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I would check for ruptured fuel pressure regulator, check for gas in vacuum hose to regulator.
 

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Your suggestions are MOST helpful! Thanks!I gave you a LIKE!
We will get this psycho car figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Assuming it’s not raining Sunday, Im gonna give the two lines a check. Obviously the sending one is in the right spot, but I suspect it could be possible that the return line and the vapor line could’ve been switched—either accidentally or purposefully. It’s a shot in the dark but seeing the other stuff on this car, it wouldn’t surprise me.

If they were switched, I’ll 200% have to check the FPR. Pretty sure plugged return line would cause a rupture in it. Otherwise, it’ll be on the back burner—eliminating the easy first. I’ll try and hunt down that vacuum line, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Oh yea, another nice little thing I forgot to mention. It doesn’t really matter but Jesus, I’d like to know who worked on this last.

The fuel tank is held on by one nut, the filler neck, a strap wedged into the thread, and a dream.

The nut on the passenger side fuel tank strap stays, but any force will have it come off. The only reason the strap stays on that side is because it’s just wedged between the threads.

This thing is a dang enigma, but I accepted the challenge and gotta learn somehow haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
The canister should absorb fuel vapors (from that line from the tank). Then on cold starts, the ECU should drive the solenoid under the intake manifold, so it suck air/fume from the canister back into the intake.
The 2 wire connector by the AFM is the Fuel pump check connector. When grounded, the fuel pump should run.

The EFI MAIN RELAY#2 feeds power to the injectors (and igniter) . Does it trigger when putting key at run? The BLACK-RED wire split in two somewhere. On feeds the coil/igniter, one feed the resistor. Validate there is power at the resistor, single wire plug when at ON .
I didn’t even see these two messages. Never got an email or anything. I’m sorry.

But yes, everything was working fine as far as I could tell. Just up until the plugged hose was busted. Aside from the leaking coolant, that was the only problem before I screwed it up again

Need a picture of fuel lines, remove gas tank cap and start car check for any pressure at filler neck. The line blew due to high tank pressure. The check valve on gas cap should have vented (clog with rust ?).Replace cap. Remove line from charcoal canister to fuel tank, should be able to blow air back to tank.Leave vent hose disconnected and tie up end higher than fill tube and test drive and see if runs ok. Then canister has check valve failure
Again, I’m sorry I missed these cause it has some great info. I’ve been trying to upload the videos I took down there for the last hour but apparently the file type is unsupported even though I’ve done it A HUNDRED TIMES BEFORE. I’m fed up and giving up on this since it’s like 3:00am over here. I’ll try to get it tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #71

One video shows where the leak was. The other shows the two plugged off hoses; shorter one (the one I grab first) is coming from a hardline on the body and is the one that burst. You can see it’s plugged. Long hose was also plugged and is coming from the square thing on the tank.
 

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Oh yea, another nice little thing I forgot to mention. It doesn’t really matter but Jesus, I’d like to know who worked on this last.

The fuel tank is held on by one nut, the filler neck, a strap wedged into the thread, and a dream.

The nut on the passenger side fuel tank strap stays, but any force will have it come off. The only reason the strap stays on that side is because it’s just wedged between the threads.

This thing is a dang enigma, but I accepted the challenge and gotta learn somehow haha.
Assuming it’s not raining Sunday, Im gonna give the two lines a check. Obviously the sending one is in the right spot, but I suspect it could be possible that the return line and the vapor line could’ve been switched—either accidentally or purposefully. It’s a shot in the dark but seeing the other stuff on this car, it wouldn’t surprise me.

If they were switched, I’ll 200% have to check the FPR. Pretty sure plugged return line would cause a rupture in it. Otherwise, it’ll be on the back burner—eliminating the easy first. I’ll try and hunt down that vacuum line, too.

One video shows where the leak was. The other shows the two plugged off hoses; shorter one (the one I grab first) is coming from a hardline on the body and is the one that burst. You can see it’s plugged. Long hose was also plugged and is coming from the square thing on the tank.
Hard to see in video but looks like vent line plugged. Was it only one line from tank being used.
All three hoses need to be connected. See picture.
Fuel supply to filter than to fuel rail. Return line to fuel regulator out. Vent line to charcoal canister.
Just follow hard lines on frame and correct the connections
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
Hard to see in video but looks like vent line plugged. Was it only one line from tank being used.
All three hoses need to be connected. See picture.
Fuel supply to filter than to fuel rail. Return line to fuel regulator out. Vent line to charcoal canister.
Just follow hard lines on frame and correct the connections
Dropped it again and did a more thorough check. Return and vapor were definitely in the wrong spots; nothing coming out of where the “return” line was with fuel coming out of the other line. Diagram also seems to support the switch. Vapor was plugged coming out of the tank and return was plugged going to the tank from the body originally.

Corrected those and now low fuel pressure, unless I plug the return. With return plugged, it goes back to normal minus the “revs to ~2000 then drops” problem again, which leads me to believe it’s fuel pressure related now...or it was just a huge coincidence with the duct tape and new duct, I forgot to plug in the idle air control, or there’s still actually a TPS code even though CEL is off when running. But of course, 100% low pressure regardless.

I ordered a new FPR and am gonna tackle the filter while I’m at it since I’ll have to tear most of it down anyways. More than likely I’ll also pull injectors and check them as well.

I imagine since it runs fine with the return plugged that FPR is a likely candidate, so that’s where I’ll start.

I can’t tell you how much Ive appreciated your help since the beginning. Thank you and everyone else so much.

FPR is getting here in the next few days so Ill update hopefully by the end of the week.
 

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Fuel pressure regulator is probably damaged since return was plugged. At least the fuel lines are now correct.
When the new FPR is in it should run ok. You made a lot of progress in a few weeks it's all most done.
 

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Tim, any update!!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Tim, any update!!
Update #1: Starting a new job and a flight lesson prevented me from completion last week. Past few days I’ve dealt with the removal of the FPR and EGR.

Managed to squeeze under, over, and around to get to the FPR without having to pull the manifold, like I originally thought I would. It is a PAIN but I’m managing. EGR was easy enough compared to this. I’m probably gonna have a local shop fabricate me some block off plates, too. Now if I can only get that dang s-pipe out without having to cut it in half...

Because of the tight spaces, tools are the drawback at the moment; 17mm wrench on the bottom nut on the FPR didn’t cut it, as well as a ratcheting wrench. Got a really deep socket, 1/2 drive wrench, and now I need an extension so the wrench clears the lines down by the tranny, which I’ll hopefully pick up in the daytime. That should HOPEFULLY do it. Then figuring out #2 fuel line is the next step. After that, I’ll throw everything back together and see how it goes.

Today I just spent most of my time trying to fish out that s-pipe, though, which appears that it ain’t coming out unless i cut it in half or pull the valve cover, which I’m considering doing since everything is out of the way of it anyways, for the most part. Gonna try to avoid that as much as possible, though, as I foresee stripped screws in my future.
 

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I agree with everyone else here. Unless there is a problem with the EGR sticking open, it's not really worth all the effort to bypass or eliminate it. It doesn't effect power or mileage anyway. Reading this entire thread only one really big thing sticks out to me and that's how much your car has been victimized by previous owners. And I agree with Dave. You're not a rookie anymore. You've done a good job dealing with all of this so far. The information you've provided has been very good and you've followed suggestions and directions provided here very well too!
Now here's a few suggestions from me, some of which have already been stated previously. The best thing you can do at this point is to look everything over and see what looks like it has been messed with somehow. The TSRM is a good source of how things should be. Everything was designed to work as a system and eliminating or bypassing stuff is generally a good way to create more problems. And some things won't work well or at all not properly installed...
On your fuel situation, you must have a fuel filter. The stock filter is big enough to last virtually forever. But as Dave stated, you'll invent new swear words changing it. If the lines where it connects have been altered, you'll be best off getting proper replacements. Get one properly installed before bothering with cleaning your injectors. I'm not sure that your FPR has been damaged with the return and vapor lines switched. But I would think that the charcoal canister might have been damaged by the fuel pump trying to force fuel into it. That would explain many of your symptoms. And as electric fuel pumps are positive displacement, meaning that they must flow fuel all the time, it might have been damaged during all of this. But first make sure that everything else is properly connected. Then move on to replacing what tests bad.
One of the biggest problems these cars develop over time is poor electrical connections and in some cases, poor grounds, especially the body ground near the battery. You've already repaired the fusible links near the battery which was a very good idea. They're designed to prevent fires and harnesses melting, neither of which are much fun at all.
Your intake tract must be airtight from the AFM to the throttle body, otherwise, the ECU won't add the right amount of fuel for proper running. And the ECU temp sensor must be good. It's not uncommon for it's connector to corrode.
I have a garage full of parts so if you need anything, get in touch. They're all anxious to go to a good home and are available cheap. Life has been crazy lately and I haven't checked in here in a while. You can PM me or text me @425-387-9169.
Welcome to the best forum on the planet!
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Evidently waiting to get the fuel filter on before updating was not the best idea since I still haven’t had the time to figure that one out.

But anyways, FPR and a replacement vacuum hose is on. The original FPR has a L shape vacuum outlet thing at the top whereas the new one is slightly bigger and just points straight up, so it was fun trying to wrestle a slightly bigger hose and a hose clamp onto the car side of it. But now the original hose, which has a hole in it, is replaced.

I agree with everyone else here. Unless there is a problem with the EGR sticking open, it's not really worth all the effort to bypass or eliminate it. It doesn't effect power or mileage anyway. Reading this entire thread only one really big thing sticks out to me and that's how much your car has been victimized by previous owners. And I agree with Dave. You're not a rookie anymore. You've done a good job dealing with all of this so far. The information you've provided has been very good and you've followed suggestions and directions provided here very well too!
Now here's a few suggestions from me, some of which have already been stated previously. The best thing you can do at this point is to look everything over and see what looks like it has been messed with somehow. The TSRM is a good source of how things should be. Everything was designed to work as a system and eliminating or bypassing stuff is generally a good way to create more problems. And some things won't work well or at all not properly installed...
On your fuel situation, you must have a fuel filter. The stock filter is big enough to last virtually forever. But as Dave stated, you'll invent new swear words changing it. If the lines where it connects have been altered, you'll be best off getting proper replacements. Get one properly installed before bothering with cleaning your injectors. I'm not sure that your FPR has been damaged with the return and vapor lines switched. But I would think that the charcoal canister might have been damaged by the fuel pump trying to force fuel into it. That would explain many of your symptoms. And as electric fuel pumps are positive displacement, meaning that they must flow fuel all the time, it might have been damaged during all of this. But first make sure that everything else is properly connected. Then move on to replacing what tests bad.
One of the biggest problems these cars develop over time is poor electrical connections and in some cases, poor grounds, especially the body ground near the battery. You've already repaired the fusible links near the battery which was a very good idea. They're designed to prevent fires and harnesses melting, neither of which are much fun at all.
Your intake tract must be airtight from the AFM to the throttle body, otherwise, the ECU won't add the right amount of fuel for proper running. And the ECU temp sensor must be good. It's not uncommon for it's connector to corrode.
I have a garage full of parts so if you need anything, get in touch. They're all anxious to go to a good home and are available cheap. Life has been crazy lately and I haven't checked in here in a while. You can PM me or text me @425-387-9169.
Welcome to the best forum on the planet!
Thank you for the information. I’ll look into the charcoal canister as well, just in case, if I can figure out where it is. I hope it’s not too bad to get to. I’ll text you sometime when things get going better with the car, cause I’m definitely gonna need things like light lenses if you have any. I really appreciate it.

Next day off is Thursday. At least for now. I’ll see if I can’t get around to continuing that day. Main thing right now is figuring out which hoses go to which part on the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Update #2 or #3 or something:

Charcoal canister SEEMS ok. Did tests per the TSRM. I ran air from a tire compressor through the inlet pipe and felt a slight bit of air coming through the bottom and top pipes. Covering one sends all air out of the other one—which is good. Also ran it up to 43 PSI. few times just to make sure. It looked like there was some bubbling by the top side plate where the inlet and outlet is, but only under decent pressure. No air coming out of another pipe when running it into the top outlet, either.

However, it is not back in yet. The bottom hose was not connected to anything. I assume, though, it SHOULD be connected since there is a hose clamp on it. I just have no idea where. There was a hose facing downward going into the firewall in the general location, but unless there’s supposed to be a metal line ran from the canister to the hose, then that would not match up at all, as the canister is not angled correctly and they’re both hoses that are the same size, and therefore can’t connect.

Also, there’s this that I found
I’ve noticed the plug before but thought it was to the alternator and they had just splices connectors into the wires but maybe I am mistaken. The plug with the cover is going into the side of the motor under the headers. It fits perfectly into the connector that is in the same plastic wire conduit as the alternator wires. I plugged it up but if someone could tell me if it’s right or not, before I risk putting everything together and frying something, I would appreciate it. Only thing I can guess is oil pressure sensor and that’s why I have a dead gauge.

Thank y’all again
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Alright

Slapped everything back together today—minus fuel filter. Still need to figure that out. Was checking to see if anything helped first too, though.

Started her up aaannnd same thing; barely idles, dies with throttle, revs VERY slowly if it doesn’t die, etc. Missed a vacuum line, put it back together and still the same thing.

However, after a few starts and running for a little, everything was just about good, surprisingly. I felt maybe it was revving a tad slow, but Im not 100% sure. Plus there’s whistling noise by the house on the regulator. I can feel air moving down there and if I touch the vacuum hose the sound change, so I think it’s that. I’m not sure why, though, as the hose was clamped down pretty well. I’ll probably just have to get an FPR from someone on here so the hose can be the correct size. So, I want to say it is that at the moment.

Oil pressure gauge fixed, didn’t seem to burn oil today, too.
 
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