Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

101 - 120 of 138 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
I'm there too Ray...nah I meant the classic posts from TomD back in the day...you had to have translated his posts a few times to understand his writing...meaning...etc etc...

Yea we have firefighters I work with that I'm older than their parents...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
I'm older than my BBF's mom!
The fun thing about our ages is that we can look at younger females as well as the older ones. Equally. "Hey,that looks like fun".
Devil either.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
Into the American dream, where the realities are obscured with mind-bending intoxicants into the reality of the Dallas used car salesmen. 4:30 AM on a Sunday. Who are these people and what are they looking for? Still humping the American dream. All men are created equal and free to seek out the American dream of life,liberty and free speech. Those constitutional rights didn't apply to the other classes of US inhabitants ,back in the 60's.
The virus of corporate abuse will continue to suck life out of our people. Freedom of choice? No. The Politian's OWN us and dictate what we do. The American dream is all wrong because you have to be asleep to believe it.
Las Vegas thrives on chaos and greed.

Viet Nam was a political mistake. Chaos? Yep! Too many of our troops died over there.
Hunter S. Thompson was a good man in the wrong time. He took his own life. So many have as well.

Well,that was a BIG RANT. Sorry.
Please go back to the original channel. I was angry. May your life be not affected by this rant.10-4. :unsure:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #104
I didnt get a single notification from sell that, so that’s something nice to come back to haha.

Anyways, short post here. Finalized the connections between fuel pump and sending unit instead of just having temporary wires wrapped around each other. Also thermostat + gasket. Took longer to find the 12mm than it did to replace.

And somehow, we’re right back to square one. Starts, runs ok for two seconds, rough, dead.

Pump was moved around a bit but was still submerged, so I’m not sure if that would even be a problem. Do still need to wrestle with it, though. No gas leaking anywhere. Only thing I hear in the bay is a slight whistling almost. When doing the check test, I mean. Like it almost sounds like something is leaking, but also just the movement of fuel, if that makes sense. No fuel visually, no smell, either. Pump sounds perfect, too.

I don’t know anymore, man
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #105
Got her goin' again. If anybody has a passenger side taillight assembly and a driver side side marker clearance light thing lens on the left rear, I'll take it off your hands.

Still need to figure out this dang fuel filter thing, then all the super annoying stuff should hopefully (I pray but God knows it's not gonna be the case) be over with.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
I think that '84 & '85 are the same. My '84, '85 P type:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #107
First of all, I want to just give everyone a sincere thank you.

Six months ago, the most I had ever done was an oil change and a CAI install. Now, I still know nothing, but have learned huge amounts. Thank every one of you for that.

However, the journey continues. The car runs. Takes a minute to start and build fuel pressure--which, thinking about it now, may be because I disconnect the battery so it can start each week? Not too sure if the ECU aids in fuel pressure or not--still needs tires, and still needs some love on things like headlights, sunroof, wipers, etc. but she runs.

So, does anybody have any taillight assemblies lying around? Passenger side 33-08011R, R-476, 14-141R were the part numbers on it.

Also, the side marker things. A bulb is in it; just need the lens/assembly, and I am not too sure if the piece the lens connects to comes off as well, as everthing just looks like it was stuck on there. Can provide pictures later if necessary. Part number 14-128L (taken from right side. I assume the number is the same, but of course "L" instead of "R.").

Thank you all again
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
I crank my engine for 4-5 seconds to build up oil pressure-KEY OFF. If I use the key, it doesn't like to start and run well.
If I cycle the ignition key ON, OFF and then crank, it fires right of. WHY? Builds fuel pump pressure, maybe.

Some of our members DO have those items that you are looking for. Did you post a WTB?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
Here we go again...

Gotta be either igniter or ignition switch this time. What’s a project car if the thing does everything it can to not run?

One video shows it cutting off. Lights still worked after it shut off, horn did too. Door open light, off, as well as CEL and brake. After a few minutes, heard a relay click and it was back on and I could attempt to crank again.

Other video is about 30 seconds of the ten minutes of cranking it takes to start.

Put a pod filter on but considering I just had the old drop in completely out for awhile and it started fine, I don’t think that’s an issue here.

Gas is a month or few old, though, so it’ll probably help to drain and replace. Thank good that’s not difficult and time consuming.

Also, positive on the battery and cable was HOT, same with the fusible. Not hot hot, as it was still comfortable to touch, but maybe a little concerning.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #110
So based off that, what are the chances of it being the ign switch or ignitor? One thing I need to do as well is test the cold start injector.

I just want to be a little bit more certain before I buy an ignitor or switch. I did run tests on the ignitor when I first got the car and they will likely read the same considering the car cranks and would only change when what happens in the video.

My theory surrounding that would be switch, though, as I don't think the ignitor would have anything to do with the power to the inside or anything, unless the lights are on the same circuit or whatever as the ignitor. So, it would make me think that it is something very weird with the switch, maybe? Especially considering the outcome is the car acting like there is no key in the ignition or it is not turned, minus there not being a door open light on, so it acts like I am just sitting in the car without a key in, I guess.

Basically just curious as to what others think before I go throwing parts at it. Old gas was also drained, liberal amount of seafoam was added, and ethanol free gas was put in. Gonna see if it does not start a little smoother come Monday or Tuesday when I'm (kind of) off work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #112
That sounds like a fuel issue to me.
The starting for sure. However the second video, the car shuts off and acts as if I’m basically sitting in the car with the key out. No dash lights, no anything. I can turn on the headlight, reverse, etc. and honk the horn, meaning power is not completely shut off, but turning the key from acc to on to trying to crank does nothing until a few minutes later when a relay clicks and I can crank again. I took a full video from run to death to resurrection, but it’s like five minutes long.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
Key OFF: everything should be OFF.
Starter sounds good.
You may invest on a remote starter button.
Valuable to diagnostics!
I like the Matco one; it lights up when you are correctly connected.
This tool will BYPASS the ignition switch, entirely!
After cranking on the starter, check the battery cables, please. Hot=bad.:unsure:

The remote starter will put you under the hood. You may see/hear/feel/smell a problem. Yes, you can do this solo.
Listen for the IAC to re-set. Check for fuel pressure while you are in there and more.
DEAF mechanics have no jobs.:rolleyes:

Just for fun, cycle the ignition switch a few times B-4 attempting to start the engine. It works for me. ;)
It cycles the fuel pump and re loads the system with fuel pressure.

I'm really not very helpful, being an armchair/ diagnostic Internet source.

We need MORE observations/tests and information ,Timmy. YOU ARE NOT A DUMMY!

Much respect for your careful and moderately accurate observations, so far.
Can we see voltage readings and a lot more, please?
The video was not very helpful. Nice try, BTW!

We do not have a language barrier.(y) I just do not think like you do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AJ

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #114
Key OFF: everything should be OFF.
Starter sounds good.
You may invest on a remote starter button.
Valuable to diagnostics!
I like the Matco one; it lights up when you are correctly connected.
This tool will BYPASS the ignition switch, entirely!
After cranking on the starter, check the battery cables, please. Hot=bad.:unsure:

The remote starter will put you under the hood. You may see/hear/feel/smell a problem. Yes, you can do this solo.
Listen for the IAC to re-set. Check for fuel pressure while you are in there and more.
DEAF mechanics have no jobs.:rolleyes:

Just for fun, cycle the ignition switch a few times B-4 attempting to start the engine. It works for me. ;)
It cycles the fuel pump and re loads the system with fuel pressure.

I'm really not very helpful, being an armchair/ diagnostic Internet source.

We need MORE observations/tests and information ,Timmy. YOU ARE NOT A DUMMY!

Much respect for your careful and moderately accurate observations, so far.
Can we see voltage readings and a lot more, please?
The video was not very helpful. Nice try, BTW!

We do not have a language barrier.(y) I just do not think like you do.
Oh yea I understand that. It’s not the fuel that’s at the top of my list at the moment, though. What I was talking about is the key is on when it cuts off, but acts life it’s off. So picture sitting in your car with the keys out of the ignition—you can honk the horn and turn on the headlights and all, but can’t do much else. It’s the same as that, however the key is still on “on.” “On” and “acc” don’t do anything and it won’t really do anything at all. No dash, no start—not even a click—nothing. It sits for a minute and everything that should be on comes on (door open, brake, CEL if “on”). Basically loses all power to “acc” and “on” after running for a minute, which is why I was thinking maybe the switch was messing up somehow. If not, a relay.

Based off current diagnostics and that it loses any sort of “acc” and “on” related power, I’d say it’s related to the switch and/or a relay somewhere. However, I’m not certain if the ignitor is linked to any of that, in case it may be that. Spark is still present, however.

Cables were hot after lots and lots of cranking. My mistake and impatience there. Not blistering, as I could touch them. But relatively hot.

Searched through the TSRM and read many, many threads on here but could not ever find anything that even somewhat describes this. Just seeing if someone maybe had something similar since they know more than I do. It’s all just super strange.

Thank you again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
I cannot reply to your questions, else?
 
  • Like
Reactions: AJ

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #116
I cannot reply to your questions, else?
You’re good, man. I was just throwing it out there. I wholeheartedly appreciate you taking time to even reply to this thread still.

I’ll see what I can’t figure out over the next few days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
Timmy stay the course...could be a bad relay and/or a fuel issue...

Interesting if the key Acc/ON is contributing to the issue...but the relay has me thinking??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
Is there a problem with the ignition switch?
Yes, the horn will beep with the key out of the ignition switch! So will the headlights., dome light.
Brake lights too.
Key OUT. See if there is a voltage draw at the battery. Battery terminal to the battery CABLE end. Test light. It should NOT light up. Goofy/stuck relay, maybe. Ignition switch issues?

We need more information for these armchair diagnostics.
From the video, the starter is happy. You are not. :unsure: .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #119
What I should’ve done: got some general advice from y’all while I wait for the day when I have time to look at it. Then, look at the wiring diagram I actually need, test, go from there.

What I actually did: explain how everything is blowing up and asking for help when no one has any idea what’s happening. Then, after reading, looking at the wiring diagrams for the ignition switch—good—it does not include everything related to it on that page—bad—and explaining, trying to start the car until power shuts off again. Car indeed shuts off then comes back. The starter didn’t. But everything else did as usual. Then, view what looks like little bits of electrical smoke rising from the steering column and rationalizing that it is, in fact, the switch. Next, pulling the switch out and looking at it—which isn’t necessarily hard, but I’m mainly going off “it looks like I take this out to get to here” instead of a book or video—and seeing that...there’s probably no way anything down there was smoking and it was probably just the way the sun caught the cat hair from your hat like you originally were thinking before seeing more come out and the electrical shutting down right after seeing it....

After all that was said and done, I went ahead and put the new switch in just in case there might’ve been a solder burned off somewhere in the insulation or something. Slapped everything that needs to go back together, back together, hooked up battery, aaaaaaannnndddd nothing.

So, I, being the absolute smartest person I know, had an idea that absolutely nobody would ever, in a million years, think of (yes, it is sarcasm): go to the actual wiring diagram section in the TSRM! Whoah! Who would’ve guessed that that is more detailed than the diagrams in the “ignition” or “starting” section (yes, still being sarcastic)?

So, I said “screw it. We’ll start at the beginning.”

And (videos and stuff):


Video with fusible link box thing shows that that is very clearly the problem. The connection on the left side of the yellow wire and the entire left side was badly rusted. I guess that side looked fine when I redid the rest. Not anymore. Sanded it down and PB Blaster. Brought it back a little but barely any better than before. Video two shows the now shot starter and it losing power again, proving it is still iffy.

Pictures just show what I should’ve done a week ago. Also to prove that I am, in fact, a dummy, which is also why Im trying to post the stuff here so if someone else ever has the same issue, there’ll be lots of info here.

Now, after describing all that in a way that probably barely makes sense to someone else reading it, on top of guaranteed typos from being on an iPhone, should that yellow wire that connects the fusible links be replaced with fusible link wire or regular wire? Just gonna go ahead and replace the whole thing instead of just the ends.

Thank you for your time reading and being here throughout all this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
This is all learning experience on a 30+ year old car...whether your a new owner or long time owner sometimes diagnosis doesn't follow standard reasoning...

I've seen "good" fuses not work due to corrosion etc?? replaced them all with new to be on the safe side...

I would replace with similar fusible wire...

Props to you for staying the course and starting again from scratch...we all learn from each other the benefit of the forums!!
 
101 - 120 of 138 Posts
Top