Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

121 - 138 of 138 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Check relays, turn ignition to on. Disconnect power to #2 EFI main relay on fender and reconnect to hear if relay is closing, check for 12v at positive side of coil, check #1 main relay also and ignition relay both in fuse box (fuse 7.5 ign for IGN AND EFI #2 relay). If that checks out.

Turn ignition off and jump fuel pump check connector this will bypass circuit opening relay for fuel pump .Try to start car. Fusible links look ok for car to run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
Replaced the fusible and seemed to do the trick. Starter is coming in and out of life, so everything is at like 70% haha.

Once the starter came back to life, car started and ran semi-perfectly. Gonna do some research on why it’s running a bit rough, but other than that and tires it’s okay enough to drive...it seems at least. Current theory is just plugs are a bit fouled from a lot of idle. Pulled one the other day and there is a little oil and all. If not, theory two is timing might be off a little.

Other than that, revved perfectly fine. Idle is a bit weird probably from the pod filter and when I first did the CEL, throttle position sensor was one of the codes. Doesn’t come on with car on, though, but I’ll run the test again next chance I get just in case.

Thank y’all again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #123
Back with an update. 70% positives this time around.

Was in fact a dead cylinder (cylinder 4, I think) due to fouled plug, likely from idling and that little put put noise.

Replaced, smooth as can be minus the little putter, which actually later evolved into a full pop at some point, so I’m left with maybe the timing still(?).

Once that was done, I put some spacer adapter on and then my buddy’s old miata wheels. Took her for a test run and probably went the fastest she’s gone in years...aka the speed limit. Through the smell of gas from the hole a previous owner cut to get to the fuel pump and leaking cat smells, we smelled something a lot more foul.

Pulled off and I guess I put the gasket and liquid gasket on terribly because water was leaking out of the bottom of the thermostat housing. New one acquired, just waiting to put it on.

Then, looked at the brakes and ooohhhhh boy. Entire left side was smoking, which made sense as to why it pulled so hard to the left. We initially just assumed unbalanced tires haha.

Pulled her back home and car randomly kinda stopped at some point for literally about four seconds, thinking maybe gas just wasn’t getting to it or something since it was low. Not sure but best explanation I have.

The next day, I went and ordered everything I needed, minus calipers yet because front left is unavailable through o’reilly, so might have to rock auto or reuse the old bracket, plus $150 on pads, rotors, caliper rebuild kit, etc.

Came back home, started the car and she started up BEAUTIFULLY. First crank, started like a regular car, idled beautifully at about 1350 or so (initially), and only revved slow for a few seconds (blipping the throttle a bit, not full sending it).

Messed with the TPS and evidently it hasn’t been plugged all the way in for months, cause good god that thing is bad. Rev, die, rev, die, rev, die, over and over.

New TPS at work is $130ish, but cross referenced the numbers just in case (ignition coil was initially wrong so had to cross a cross reference. Double checking a lot when it comes to this). Came up for $69. Thought it was a bit more nice than the $130, so I went with that.

Then, it was discovered that a previous owner filed down the connector to get the harness to plug in, as the prongs were too deep in for the harness to reach.

Turns out, this is what you get when you search the number on my original online:

That was pretty standard for all the sites I looked at. The TPS in it works for everything else except that. If I was smart, I would’ve hit “compatibility” at work when ordering the dang thing to double check.

New one is on but don’t wanna check till the car is back on the ground. Working on brakes and bearings now. Bearings sound and feel absolutely phenomenal, but I’ll be in there anyways so might as well.

That brings me to my only question this time around:

How on God’s green earth do you get that dang dust cover off? Followed the BBK installation thread but I cannot, for the life of me, get a screwdriver even remotely close to being able to pry it off. Hammer or no hammer, it doesn’t get anywhere. Is there a trick I’m missing out on?

Caliper is already off. Picture is just there for reference.

Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
Dust cap:
Modify 10 " Channellocks to have a parrot beak. Patience and a Dremel will do it.
The tips of the jaws will get into the space between the hub and the dust cap.
I sharpened wide chisel may also work. Tap e tap tap.;)

Smoking caliper:
Got some Moly lube(black grease) and lube the sliders on the stuck caliper. It's common for them to get stuck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
3/4 calipers, all pads, all rotors, and front wheel bearings, seals, and races replaced, as well as new grease (obviously) and new brake fluid. Front brake hoses replaced as well. Potential problem with either the master cylinder or proportioning valves, however it’s all working ok at the moment, and luckily I can get back home without using the brakes on the test drive.

I think I mentioned the TPS was replaced, too. Same problem though. Dies at 1800-2000, falls back down, restarts. Almost like some kind of issue relating to the fuel cut RPM thing:


I’m thinking adjustment would work, but I’m not 100% sure. It can be reasoned that it’s the TPS because it only happens with it plugged in. Also, idled fine at first until I gave it a blip and all of a sudden it wanted to hold 2k RPM. Seems to want to go higher as the car warms up. After a little bit, at least. Doubt it’s the connector if it’s only when it’s plugged in, too. Runs fine and idles high unplugged, understandably.

So, that being said, my only question is would doing the proper adjustments and reinstallation help? I’ve seen other posts where people have had a high idle fixed after adjustment, but I haven’t seen anyone with this kind of issue.

Either way, I’m gonna do an adjustment, but I thought I might ask the wizards on this forum for other opinions in case it’s not the issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
Forgot to mention, drivers front caliper was so stuck that I had to pry it off the rotor, rear one was almost as bad, and passenger front bracket would not slide and took A LOT of force to open/close. Rear passenger is good as new, interestingly enough. Only one whose piston would move, even. All in all, nice and easy to replace and brake hoses on these things are an absolute pain to deal with hahaha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
I have worked on early Corolla wit similar calipers. They are sometimes REALLY stuck. Air hammer and a large pry bar may be required New hardware and slider pins are often needed.
The design of the calipers allows rain water to enter and rust it..... solid.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,981 Posts
Tim check out this thread on the IAC/IASC valve

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,981 Posts
Sorry ISCV valve on the side of the TB...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
Tim check out this thread on the IAC/IASC valve

TPS seemed to do it but still high idle. I’m about 99% sure I over adjusted it, though, so Im gonna start back there and, if that doesn’t go it, check coolant temp sensor, 02, and IAC.

Current overall update is the car drives as well as an abused car that probably sat for God knows how long can. Idles smoothly, mostly stopped the little backfire, etc. I don’t know how some of those problems seemed to fix themself but I’ll take it—even though it was likely just a fluke.

When getting on it, bogs down past 3k. Trying to determine if it’s mechanical (diff, tranny, lean/rich) or fuel starvation, so now that it can reliably go (for now), gonna change diff and tranny oil since it probably very badly needs it. Then see if the fuel sock is clogged.

RPMS rise relatively normally after 3k, just seems like the power isn’t being applied, oddly enough. Lean, maybe. Not sure yet. Plus is fine when revving stood still. We’ll see here soon after it stops raining.

Thank y’all again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
TPS seemed to do it but still high idle. I’m about 99% sure I over adjusted it, though, so Im gonna start back there and, if that doesn’t go it, check coolant temp sensor, 02, and IAC.

Current overall update is the car drives as well as an abused car that probably sat for God knows how long can. Idles smoothly, mostly stopped the little backfire, etc. I don’t know how some of those problems seemed to fix themself but I’ll take it—even though it was likely just a fluke.

When getting on it, bogs down past 3k. Trying to determine if it’s mechanical (diff, tranny, lean/rich) or fuel starvation, so now that it can reliably go (for now), gonna change diff and tranny oil since it probably very badly needs it. Then see if the fuel sock is clogged.

RPMS rise relatively normally after 3k, just seems like the power isn’t being applied, oddly enough. Lean, maybe. Not sure yet. Plus is fine when revving stood still. We’ll see here soon after it stops raining.

Thank y’all again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
You're doing a great job of diagnosis. Please continue.(y)
Fuel sock ,{coolant temp sensor} for the ECU. The 02:maybe.:unsure:
These goofy conditions happen in closed loop ,I'll assume.
Open loop ,it runs on a set pile of parameters.
Vacuum leaks cause a shit-pile of issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AJ

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
So...does anybody else’s timing cover..glow in the dark?


Also stupid question, but just want to be sure. Rear wiper is just the push in pin, correct? Before I break something trying to get the damn thing off and discover I should’ve just unscrewed the two screws.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,949 Posts
Interesting! That may be pollen.:unsure:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,981 Posts
Stay the course!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #136
Back to TPS.

It was “adjusted” enough to where the car didn’t flip its shit, but not good enough. Took off the throttle body because I could not get it to deflect on the multimeter, and I thought it may be the stop screw. This is the current state of the TB:


I’m not 100% sure if the screw is right, but it looks like the butterfly closes as it should—at least compared to other TB’s I’ve seen. The boot on the—I think it’s the dashpot?—is shot, but it still moves up and down. However, the little air filter thing doesn’t seem to go where it should.

As far as I’ve read, it should just vent to the air, correct? So then the other issue is where is that thing supposed to be hooked up to? Unless it’s correct? Not sure. Not even sure what it’s called on the intake manifold, honestly.

That brings me to about ten minutes ago. I was messing with the TPS and multimeter and discovered that at full closed, IDL and E2 read ~5 ohms. It linearly increases as I turn it, till it goes to 0 at full open. According to the TSRM, it doesn’t seem too right. Ordered another (PN TH270 Standard Intermotor) just in case it was boxed wrong or something. If not, I’ll look elsewhere and hope for the best. The spring doesn’t look the best but it functions fine. If I can find the right size, I’m going to go ahead and replace anyways since it’s just right there.

Oh yea, and all this started because I was gonna check timing but couldn’t get the CEL to come on without jumping IDL and E2 on the car side, so wiring is okay. TPS is just seemingly no bueno, or I’m incompetent. Either is very possible haha. Turning dizzy further right just made it run worse, so where it’s at now is best case, evidently. Can’t exactly check with a timing light till I get the check connector to work, which means proper TPS, though. TB went through two bottles of cleaner to get it to even that. I don’t think this poor car got much more than basic maintenance in the past, if that.

If the stop screw doesn’t look correct, let me know. Idle air also clicks when shut off, so that might be ok. I just need to figure out the TPS first since it seems to be the cause of about every problem on this car. Then go from there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,161 Posts
Take the TPS out, and ensure the spring loaded arm does come back fully to it's mechanical stop by itself.
Mine did not. Was kind of dirty inside. I sprayed contact cleaner with lube on the moving parts, and it started to come back as it should.
Reinstalled, aligned, and my problem was gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
Take the TPS out, and ensure the spring loaded arm does come back fully to it's mechanical stop by itself.
Mine did not. Was kind of dirty inside. I sprayed contact cleaner with lube on the moving parts, and it started to come back as it should.
Reinstalled, aligned, and my problem was gone.
The one Im referring to is the new one. The old one was rigged up to where it fits; it’s not the correct one for it.

Anyways, new TPS #2 ohmed out to the same thing. Ordered #3, a different one, since it lists 5m 1985 to I think 1988, as opposed to the first one listing 5m and the 4 cylinder for vehicles I think ‘83+. If not, ‘84 or something.

In the meantime, I’ll see if I can’t do some general tidying up and maintenance elsewhere.

Brake master and clutch are going to be done, as well as prop. valve. Waiting for valve then gonna do it all at once. Never thought I’d buy more brake fluid in my life.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
121 - 138 of 138 Posts
Top