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In the process of purchasing a 1983 Supra L-Type with manual transmission.


It's been sitting in a garage for 8 years, engine will turn over by hand but starting has not been attempted.


What should I look at first in the engine bay?


Remove and clean fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel filters and thoroughly flush.


What else would need attention first... lifters?
 

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If the starter will turn it over, then I would check for spark. You can find the inspection hole for the gas tank under the cargo carpet. I would suspect a fuel issue but it could be anything
 

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Fuel replaced with fresh first and foremost and run the pump for 3-5min to flush the tops of the injectors out (hold open the AFM with the key "ON" and you should hear it), then it should be good to go once you've checked that it has coolant and oil.

Watch it closely as it comes up to temp the first time - make sure that as the needle nears center it levels out and the top of the radiator gets hot as hell. (Thermostats don't like sitting still for that long...)

Expect some seals to be sad after that long, oil at the cams/crank or valve stems as well as coolant seal on the water pump.

Give it a go and let us know how it went!

--billyM
 

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supkar and BillyM: thanks for that info, I'll be dropping the fuel tank and running new fuel through the lines before attempting to run the engine. I imagine there will be some bad seals from sitting that long since it wasn't run at all during the down time.

The current owner wanted to remind me to make sure the hydraulic lifter were pre-lubricated... I'm drawing a blank on how that would be performed without at least taking off the valve covers to get access to the lifters first.

Have you folks heard of this procedure?
 

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Brakes! DOT3 fluid is hydrophilic meaning it loves to absorb moisture and then the brake components rust. No telling how old the brake fluid already was 8 years ago. Most people seem to know they are supposed to change oil regularly, but few people know they are supposed to flush the brake fluid every three years. Don't assume the previous owner did all the proper maintenance. I bet by now all four calipers are locked up and the master cylinder leaking back into the booster. Even if you can free everything up, they'll be leaking soon. The calipers can probably be rebuilt with a kit as the pistons are stainless. The barrels are steel and tend to rust, but the grooves in the housing may be OK and just need new seals. And probably get a new master cylinder too. You can buy a rebuild kit for the master and hone it, but I doubt it can be saved unless you want to send it off to be bored and sleeved. Brake system is not something you want to take any chances on so you should plan on rebuilding it all. Your clutch slave and master are probably in the same shape and will need replaced for the same reason.
 

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The current owner wanted to remind me to make sure the hydraulic lifter were pre-lubricated... I'm drawing a blank on how that would be performed without at least taking off the valve covers to get access to the lifters first.

Have you folks heard of this procedure?
You can disable the fuel pump and crank the engine over for a bit with the spark plugs out to circulate the oil and build some oil pressure. I forget which fuse to pull or if its just unplugging the pump on the Supra, been too long, but its generally just that simple.
 

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pdupler: hadn’t even thought about the brakes... being so concerned about the engine, good call.

I’ll disable the fuel pump when I tear into the fuel system to clean everything.

Thank you.
 

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And don't forget to drain and flush the clutch master/slave cylinders. If the brake fluid is crummy, the clutch fluid probably is, too.

- Jim
 

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And don't forget to drain and flush the clutch master/slave cylinders. If the brake fluid is crummy, the clutch fluid probably is, too.

- Jim
Yep, that's what pdupler was saying earlier.

Added to my to-do list.

Thank you for all the suggestions folks.
 

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Replace all the fluid; oil, gas, brake fluid, clutch fluid, power steering fluid (atf), diff, and trans.
suspect anything made of rubber, suicide hose get replace right off the bat...
"Big three" electrical upgrade...

turn over by hand, then again with fuel pump disabled plugs removed, add fresh gas and cross fingers
 

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"The big three" when used in automotive electrical context typically referee to: 1. Positive lead from alternator to battery 2. Battery ground to Body 3. Engine ground to Body.

I do this upgrade to all my cars. (usually using 4 gauge wire). Very common modification when doing stereo upgrades.

will
 
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