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So i am totally new to MK2 Supras, but me and my dad just brought back a barn find 1984 toyota celeica supra from Denver, and im trying to get it running myself. I just had the fuel tank redone and i have a new NAPA fuel pump i wired in. It wont kick on with the ignition on its own, but i found a fuseable link to trip and start the fuel pump. It will build preassure in the system. The engine will start and run up to 1000rpms, but right after it reaches 1000 rpms it will stall out instantly. Since i dont know much i figured id see if anybody knew what could cause an issue like this. A little background - The car has 119k origional miles and has sat in a barn since 98 for as far as i know. It has the 2.8 I6 engine. Everything in the tank has either been replaced or repaired and i blew out the lines with brake cleaner. Everything in the fuel system has been looked over becides the injectors. Im in need of desperate help to figure out what could cause this. Thank you all

-Max G
 

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I had a similar issue and the forum was extremely helpful. Check out the thread below. The final solution was my own ignorance but there's helpful hints along the way that may help you.

 

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Max If I remember there is a "power" relay in the drivers seat left side qtr panel it may have to be reset with a paper clip/straight wire...

15923
 

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If it starts just with normal cranking, but dies just after, I would think the AirFlowMeter that also drive the fuel pump relay does not do it's job. Try shorting the fuel pump relay check connector (2contacts connector hanging just beside the AirFlowMeter) = force fuel pump running, and restart...
 

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If it dies and all electronics are shut off but say, horn and headlights are still functional, check the fusible links again. Check them with a multimeter, too. Looks can be deceiving.

Make sure there are no cracks in the intake, of course, and if the intake is repaired at the joint where it’s kind of a rectangular piece, make sure that it sealed correctly.

As others have mentioned, short the fuel pump check relay to make sure that all works and builds pressure. You said you every part of the fuel system was checked, which includes the pressure regulator, I assume.

I’m going off my own experiences and the people that responded in my own thread, so I’m not nearly as good as those guys, but K think it’s all worth mentioning.

Link a video of you can, too. That helps a lot.


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Discussion Starter #6
So i did some checking, and unfortunately I've dialed it into the injectors being clogged. also the seals were shot, i could sit there and twist the injector back and forth with it all put together. Thank you all very much for your help, if injectors doesn't fix it i know what to look for next.
 

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If the AFM is a flap door type, one of your 1st two connector pin may have fell out. The first two pins are Fc and E1. When the engine starts ,it sucks air and the flap door opens. When the flap door opens, there is a pair of metal pins that are seperated when the engine is off. As soon as the flap door opens, the metal contact touches each other and completes the ground to the fuel pump relay. So just remove the female connector going to the AFM, and look in the connector, see if any pins have fallen out or fallen back, especially the first two. If any one of the pins is out, use a tiny flat screwdriver and bend the tab at the back and poush back the pin in. Of course your COR(circuit opening relay)could be defective too.
I made this video, it is closely related to this issue.
 
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