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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have replaced the lower value cover gaskets as the were leaking oil. Replaced intake manifold gaskets, had fuel injectors tested and all is good.. New distributor cap, rotor. Lined up the timing to top dead center. Checked fuel pump relay and all is good. When I start the car I don't hear the fuel pump which worked before all work performed. So looking at the video it seems like the car is starving for fuel. Fuel line into the intake manifold has to brass washers and I place one above and one below the fuel line near intake manifold. The bolt has a hole for fuel to flow through but I did see any info on alinement or proper hold placement. Check out the video link and help me get this car started. Thank you. New video by Lawrence Bagnell
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Anyone have info on setting cam to BTDC. I pulled headcovers and lined cams to holds open. Inserting Distributor lined up to dot and line and rotor cap turns between cylinder 1 and 4. When we pulled the cam gears we put marks on TDC but replacing them and following instructions aligning the three pin holes to marks on cam rear cover our makers are off 180 degrees. I don't see how pulling cam gears sprocket then following instructions would cause this problem. PS I cleaned and replaced gaskets in intake manifold as well. THANK YOU. SO starting from scratch DOES anyone have instructions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I have replaced the lower value cover gaskets as the were leaking oil. Replaced intake manifold gaskets, had fuel injectors tested and all is good.. New distributor cap, rotor. Lined up the timing to top dead center. Checked fuel pump relay and all is good. When I start the car I don't hear the fuel pump which worked before all work performed. So looking at the video it seems like the car is starving for fuel. Fuel line into the intake manifold has to brass washers and I place one above and one below the fuel line near intake manifold. The bolt has a hole for fuel to flow through but I did see any info on alinement or proper hold placement. Check out the video link and help me get this car started. Thank you. New video by Lawrence Bagnell
I will also add that we pulled intake manifold and replace gaskets and cleaned. Pulled injectors and had them serviced. Added new injector electrical clips and kept original pins in wire harness. Meaning we popped the pins out of the old and put them into new clips instead of cutting wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So timing is TDC. It seems fuel is the problem. Going to remove intake manifold again and check fuel pressure first. Then injector clips and change fuel filter.
Question for Supra peeps.

When you turn the key to the on position DO YOU HEAR the Fuel pump turn on???????
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So timing is TDC. It seems fuel is the problem. Going to remove intake manifold again and check fuel pressure first. Then injector clips and change fuel filter.
Question for Supra peeps.

When you turn the key to the on position DO YOU HEAR the Fuel pump turn on???????

So update is this. I tested the cold start injector with jumper wires to 12volt battery. Spit very little to nothing. Order new one from Japan.


Also test resistance to fuel injectors injectors. All consistent reading. Checked Fuel injector clips with key on and battery connected. 1,3,5 no reading and 2,4,6 same voltage. Figured ECM controlling voltage that is why I'm not getting readings on 1,3,5.

Replace fuel filter. done. Waiting for cold start injector then reinstall intake manifold.

QUESTION. There is a grounding wire that runs from injector wiring harness. Where does it connect to confirm I'm in the correct place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update Oct 16 2021. We got it started yeppie. Here is the issue now. If we advance the timing then we cannot see the timing mark on crankshaft as it goes above 15, but car runs great. If we stick to the manual on specs for the 5MGE 85 Supra it runs rough. Below is the update for and suggestions. Thank you in advance:

Oct 16, 2021 video: New video by Lawrence Bagnell


Pulled timing belt again and lined all marks up by pulling #1 spark plug and raising to highest point, pull valve cover and turned cams to open marks and inserted bolt to lock in place, pulled timing belt and realigned, had crankshaft to zero. Car starts and runs rough. Updated video


It starts. Set timing to 10 degrees and idling rough. Tried to advance distributor one tooth, the two teeth, then back one tooth, two teeth and now to marks as described to set distributor above. It only runs with settings now as stated above.

What could be the problem?


Timing was is set

EGR valve all good

Injectors - cleaned and reinstalled

Compression good

Fuse - All good

Relay - check relays and they are in good working order

Fuel injector clips replaced


The car in order to be inspected needed a catalytic converter installed. All worked well with the car for about a year and then the misfire started to occur and I noted an exhaust leak between the pipe connecting the catalytic converter and the exhaust manifold pipe. Going to sh#* can the catalytic converter and run straight pipe soon.

video: New video by Lawrence Bagnell
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ignition-switch provides power to all injectors simultaneously. Should always have full battery power to ALL injectors simultaneously full-time. ECU then grounds them to fire.

Did you fix injector connectors so you get battery-voltage on one terminal for ALL injectors? Other terminal should have 0v, otherwise you've got shorted wire somewhere.

With old crispy wiring, this is probably why you're not seeing voltage on 1,3,5.



Buy set of injector connectors off eBay for V8 for $10 and replace them all. I prefer new finger-operated spring-clips for easy disconnecting, so you're not tempted to yank on wires to force connectors off. Attach them onto harness using proper western-union/linesman splice, soldered and adhesive heat-shrink wrapped. It's done this way in pro-motorsports, aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability.



Or get connector kit and also crimp, solder and adhesive heat-shrink wrap. I prefer to fill boot with silicone before sliding on connector to give wires more support.



When was last time distributor rotor and cap were replaced?
Spark-plug wires?
 
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