If you have everything in time pull plug wires one at a time to see if you can isolate things to one cylinder
Ignition-switch provides power to all injectors simultaneously. Should always have full battery power to ALL injectors simultaneously full-time. ECU then grounds them to fire.Also test resistance to fuel injectors injectors. All consistent reading. Checked Fuel injector clips with key on and battery connected. 1,3,5 no reading and 2,4,6 same voltage. Figured ECM controlling voltage that is why I'm not getting readings on 1,3,5.
Replace fuel filter. done. Waiting for cold start injector then reinstall intake manifold.
QUESTION. There is a grounding wire that runs from injector wiring harness. Where does it connect to confirm I'm in the correct place?
Ignition-switch provides power to all injectors simultaneously. Should always have full battery power to ALL injectors simultaneously full-time. ECU then grounds them to fire.
Did you fix injector connectors so you get battery-voltage on one terminal for ALL injectors? Other terminal should have 0v, otherwise you've got shorted wire somewhere.
With old crispy wiring, this is probably why you're not seeing voltage on 1,3,5.
Buy set of injector connectors off eBay for V8 for $10 and replace them all. I prefer new finger-operated spring-clips for easy disconnecting, so you're not tempted to yank on wires to force connectors off. Attach them onto harness using proper western-union/linesman splice, soldered and adhesive heat-shrink wrapped. It's done this way in pro-motorsports, aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability.
Or get connector kit and also crimp, solder and adhesive heat-shrink wrap. I prefer to fill boot with silicone before sliding on connector to give wires more support.
When was last time distributor rotor and cap were replaced?