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1UZ into MA61 / MZ10 Guide.

24K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  40801 
#1 · (Edited)
FYI - This is a straight cut'n'paste from my thread on Toymods.
I posted it up there last week, then realised it will probably do more good here.
Its also aimed at RHD conversions, so a few things may differ there. Anyone with LHD experience is welcome to contribute.

Prices are all in $AUD


Hey, I'm slack, but this thread needs to be done.
I'm just copying Joorsh's thread and changing it to suit 1UZ's


*) Find a front sump. The 1UZ engine won't clear the crossmember with other sumps, so you'll need to switch to a front sump - LS400/Celsiors and '92-on Crowns have front sumps.

*) Change the timing belt/bearings, drive belt, water pump, sparks plugs/leads/rotors/caps, thermostat, and anything else that looks munted or old. Make sure you do it before you put the engine in the car! If you can't afford to change any of these items, then you shouldn't be doing a damn engine conversion! If you can, change the front main, rear main and cam seals too. - will cost ~$1000ish to replace everything

*) If you have an engine vibration dampener, remove it. You will also need to angle-grind the mount that it sits on, right back to the crossmember. Not all MA61's had this vibration dampener thing. If you're not sure what to look for, then pull the engine out of the car. Once the engine is out, it'll be the thing sitting in the middle of your engine bay that looks like a penis.
No, really, I'm not kidding.

*) You will need new engine mounts. Available here. Stock rubber dampeners/mounts can be used, although recommended you buy new ones ($160/pr from Mackay)

*) You will need to adjust your throttle cable. It may be able to be reused, depending on what motor was originally in there (1GE, 1GGE, 5ME, 5MGE, 6MGE, MTEU, etc).

*) You can use existing high-pressure power steering line. (the one that runs to the rack). Probably worth getting them rebuilt.

*) The UZS131 (89-91) Crown log headers will come closest to fitting. Drivers side will still require mods to clear steering column. Custom extractors are definitely the way to go if you aren't turboing.

*) The 1UZ ECU can be squeezed in behind the glovebox and it's a damn tight fight. Some persuading is definitely required. The loom can also be fit through the standard firewall hole, but you need to remove the ruuber grommet altogether, and even so it's a damn tight fit - but possible.(unconfirmed)

*) If you want aircon, you will need to have metal lines fabricated to go to and from the compressor. All other lines should be OK. You'll need a front sump style aircon compressor. Others will not clear dipstick tube.

*) You'll need a front sump style oil filter mount. Others will not clear swaybar/crossmember.

*) Get a power steering cooler. Nothing flash - just pilfer one off a crown or something. Make sure you don't hook it up in line with the pressurised side! If you don't get a power steering cooler, budget for buying a new steering rack every 6-12 months.

*) You will need a gearbox bellhousing/clutch/flywheel. Many places to get this from now, I suggest a search. CRS and Dellow are the main suppliers. Auto tranny crossmembers are a perfect fit for the W5x boxes. MA70 shifter position is the one you want.

*) The tailshaft should still fit provided your car was manual - but will need to be lengthened ~2" if using my mounts.

*) Tacho will work fine (not sure about MTEU dash), but will read incorrectly (1UZ puts out 4cyl's worth of pulses), so will need to be adjusted or a box of tricks installed.

*) Get a triple core radiator if you want to give your car some stick - at minimum get the original one cleaned. Also get the inlet/outlets resized to match engine. 1UZ is 2 or 3mm bigger than M/JZ.

*) The standard 1UZ clutch fan is absoltuely fine but only comes with UZS131 Crown motors. All others have the hydraulic fan which is the bomb if you can be bothered installing it properly. Failing those 2 points, EL/AU thermos are a perfect fit and work well with Tridon temp switches.

*) You will need new fuel lines, and also to fab up a mount for a fuel filter. Different 1UZ's have the fuel inlet/outlet in different places.

*) Alternator will plug in for ex-M powered cars, will need mods for ex-G powered ones.

*) If you want to pass engineering, you'll also need an unleaded fuel filler for the petrol tank.



At the end of the day its your call whether you get a half cut, or just an engine/loom package.
Front sump/dipstick/pickup/baffle is needed.
Front sump oil filter bracket is needed - may only be $100ish new.
Front sump aircon compressor is needed.
UZS131 Crown clutch fan/bracket is easiest to use.
UZS131 Crown auto box is easiest to use (has slip yoke as opposed to 3 prongs, may need different bellhousing)


Of course all the standard upgrades are highly recommended.
Fuel pump, brakes, suspension, diff LSD, tyres, etc.


Umm, I think that will do for the moment.
Anything major I've missed?
 
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#5 ·
Yeah, old Toyotas. A lot
I got:
Cresta 84 1geu
Soarer 81 5mgeu
Mark II 84 1ggze

enines for tuning
5mgeu
1jze
1geu

In Russia there are a lot of fans of old Toyota cars
Actually theres no model celicasupra itself, Celicas and Supras only.
Supras basicly with 1jz or 2jz. Celicas mostly with 3s-ge.
With M series Crowns and Soarers. With UZs LandCruisers only, and exclusively Crestas 93. Thats why i wanted to install UZ into my Cresta.
Alex
 
#7 ·
Questions/clarifications

*) Get a power steering cooler. Nothing flash - just pilfer one off a crown or something. Make sure you don't hook it up in line with the pressurised side! If you don't get a power steering cooler, budget for buying a new steering rack every 6-12 months.
MA61 has a power steering cooling loop stock. It's just a single loop that extends out in front of the radiator and loops back. Do you think this will be sufficient? Or do I need to replace with something more substantial?
*) Tacho will work fine (not sure about MTEU dash), but will read incorrectly (1UZ puts out 4cyl's worth of pulses), so will need to be adjusted or a box of tricks installed.
Box of tricks? More info on this please. Would love to use the digi-dash if I can make it work. Although I also have a speedometer issue as the LS400 1UZ does not even have a speedometer cable when using the A341 with no slip-yoke.
*) Alternator will plug in for ex-M powered cars, will need mods for ex-G powered ones.
Guess this is only true for 84-85s cause my plug doesn't match. I notice the 1UZ's stock alternator harness goes to a 120 amp fuse for the alternator, so may not be a good idea to use the stock plug anyway. Do you know of anybody successfully running the 120 amp LS400 alternator through the stock MA61 plug?
 
#8 ·
1) Its up to you, I'm still running the stock 'loop' but others have recommended upgrading to a proper cooler.

2) Box of tricks is something that will take a 4cyl input and give a 6cyl output.

3) Stock plug is fine, I've been running like this for ages. I doubt the alternator will ever put out the full 120amps. Maybe if you put a 700cca battery in there that has zero charge it may do it, but that would be one of the few times.
 
#9 ·
why not just use a celica cluster since it is designed to use a 4 cyl input for the tach? those clusters are usually dirt cheap.
 
#10 ·
Would work in America where you had stock analog Supra dashes, but doesn't work in Australia where we all had digital dashes (except a few imports).

Also our Celica dashes do not have the oil pressure and volt meter from memory like your Supra dashes (I think its those two).

And also gotta think about the CEL (not sure if the 22RE has one).

But apart from that, no reason.
 
#11 ·
sorry, here in the us the gts celica had analog dashes with all that stuff. would a us celica dash work for you? shipping shouldnt be that much to aus i wouldnt think. the gauge cluster isnt exactly heavy or anything. i can try to find one at the pick and pull for anyone over there interested in it. then again your car isnt wired for an analog dash so your kind of sol.
 
#12 ·
This car is wired for an Analog dash, and a member in Washington putting a I-6 in his Celica is sending me his Celica dash. The problem I have now is that I am using the A341 Auto that came with the Lexus, and it does not have a speedometer cable. I believe it uses an electronic signal from a speed sensor on the transmission to operate the speedometer. I have a digital dash from an 84L that I would actually rather use and thought I might have more luck getting the digital speedo working than an analog one. I'm not sure, though, because even the digital dash gets the speedo signal from a traditional speedo cable. Having a working speedo and tacho in a Supra dash may be difficult. Unless I can add a speedo drive gear to the transmission without swapping tailshafts with an A340 or something...
 
#13 ·
there are devices to convert digital speedo outputs from transmissions into mechanical cables. i posted 2 diff ones in my t56 thread. 1 was $300 the other $150. i didnt buy either. instead im going to buy a 3 and 3/8ths electronic autometer speedometer that goes to 160mph and all other needed autometer gauges and redo my entire gauge cluster with them. i hope to order the rest of the gauges as soon as my tax break check comes in. then all my gauges will be auto meter except the aem wideband. which later ill prolly move that to another car and buy the autometer wideband as well.
 
#15 ·
Peewee, how different is the tailshaft length needed for an auto as opposed to for an R154 or W58? What I'm wondering is, if I did what you are suggesting and had a tailshaft made up with a slip yoke, any chance of using the same tailshaft when I convert to 5 speed later?
 
#18 ·
SP1 is the signal from the DASH to the ECU.
The signal is generated from the speedometer (which is either driven from the speedo cable or the speedo sensor).

SP2 is the signal from the ABS sensor on the gearbox/autobox. This sensor is there whether you have speedo cable or electronic speedo.

You only need one for the box to shift. The ECU will throw a code if one is missing, but as long as the other one is working it will shift fine.


As for the auto vs r154 tailshaft length, I've never measured but I'd put money they are different lengths.
 
#19 ·
im just going to stop asking questions and start searching for every thread youv written...
HOW IS IT THAT THIS IS NOT A STICKY???
onece i figgure out the diffrent cassis codes and what not, its a breeze crossrefrencing my question, prhaysed in code talk and your threads... and there it is!!!
like magic!!!
thanks bunches!
 
#21 ·
Peewee hasn't checked in here (celicasupra.com) for a while, but he goes by the name CrUZida at:
http://www.toymods.org.au
 
#23 ·
Just thought I'd pop in here to let you guys know that the mounts, which are no longer available from me, are now available in CAD form, so you can get them laser/water jet cut at your local machinist.

A simple 'cut-fold-weld' approach to 1UZ installation in the MA61 Supra engine bay

File Pack includes instructions, labeled diagrams, and individual files for CNC water jet/plasma cutting. Our simple .dxf files are compatible with 99% of CNC software, and these files will allow your machinist to simply 'upload and go' reducing time and fabrication costs.

This is design release version 1.01, released 16th Jan 2011
(and yes the hole positions in the jpg below have been altered!)





1UZ to MA61 (UZA61) Engine Mounts CAD file (.dxf)
US$20
for instant purchase of .dxf file package, click here
 
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