FYI - This is a straight cut'n'paste from my thread on Toymods.
I posted it up there last week, then realised it will probably do more good here.
Its also aimed at RHD conversions, so a few things may differ there. Anyone with LHD experience is welcome to contribute.
Prices are all in $AUD
Hey, I'm slack, but this thread needs to be done.
I'm just copying Joorsh's thread and changing it to suit 1UZ's
*) Find a front sump. The 1UZ engine won't clear the crossmember with other sumps, so you'll need to switch to a front sump - LS400/Celsiors and '92-on Crowns have front sumps.
*) Change the timing belt/bearings, drive belt, water pump, sparks plugs/leads/rotors/caps, thermostat, and anything else that looks munted or old. Make sure you do it before you put the engine in the car! If you can't afford to change any of these items, then you shouldn't be doing a damn engine conversion! If you can, change the front main, rear main and cam seals too. - will cost ~$1000ish to replace everything
*) If you have an engine vibration dampener, remove it. You will also need to angle-grind the mount that it sits on, right back to the crossmember. Not all MA61's had this vibration dampener thing. If you're not sure what to look for, then pull the engine out of the car. Once the engine is out, it'll be the thing sitting in the middle of your engine bay that looks like a penis.
No, really, I'm not kidding.
*) You will need new engine mounts. Available here. Stock rubber dampeners/mounts can be used, although recommended you buy new ones ($160/pr from Mackay)
*) You will need to adjust your throttle cable. It may be able to be reused, depending on what motor was originally in there (1GE, 1GGE, 5ME, 5MGE, 6MGE, MTEU, etc).
*) You can use existing high-pressure power steering line. (the one that runs to the rack). Probably worth getting them rebuilt.
*) The UZS131 (89-91) Crown log headers will come closest to fitting. Drivers side will still require mods to clear steering column. Custom extractors are definitely the way to go if you aren't turboing.
*) The 1UZ ECU can be squeezed in behind the glovebox and it's a damn tight fight. Some persuading is definitely required. The loom can also be fit through the standard firewall hole, but you need to remove the ruuber grommet altogether, and even so it's a damn tight fit - but possible.(unconfirmed)
*) If you want aircon, you will need to have metal lines fabricated to go to and from the compressor. All other lines should be OK. You'll need a front sump style aircon compressor. Others will not clear dipstick tube.
*) You'll need a front sump style oil filter mount. Others will not clear swaybar/crossmember.
*) Get a power steering cooler. Nothing flash - just pilfer one off a crown or something. Make sure you don't hook it up in line with the pressurised side! If you don't get a power steering cooler, budget for buying a new steering rack every 6-12 months.
*) You will need a gearbox bellhousing/clutch/flywheel. Many places to get this from now, I suggest a search. CRS and Dellow are the main suppliers. Auto tranny crossmembers are a perfect fit for the W5x boxes. MA70 shifter position is the one you want.
*) The tailshaft should still fit provided your car was manual - but will need to be lengthened ~2" if using my mounts.
*) Tacho will work fine (not sure about MTEU dash), but will read incorrectly (1UZ puts out 4cyl's worth of pulses), so will need to be adjusted or a box of tricks installed.
*) Get a triple core radiator if you want to give your car some stick - at minimum get the original one cleaned. Also get the inlet/outlets resized to match engine. 1UZ is 2 or 3mm bigger than M/JZ.
*) The standard 1UZ clutch fan is absoltuely fine but only comes with UZS131 Crown motors. All others have the hydraulic fan which is the bomb if you can be bothered installing it properly. Failing those 2 points, EL/AU thermos are a perfect fit and work well with Tridon temp switches.
*) You will need new fuel lines, and also to fab up a mount for a fuel filter. Different 1UZ's have the fuel inlet/outlet in different places.
*) Alternator will plug in for ex-M powered cars, will need mods for ex-G powered ones.
*) If you want to pass engineering, you'll also need an unleaded fuel filler for the petrol tank.
At the end of the day its your call whether you get a half cut, or just an engine/loom package.
Front sump/dipstick/pickup/baffle is needed.
Front sump oil filter bracket is needed - may only be $100ish new.
Front sump aircon compressor is needed.
UZS131 Crown clutch fan/bracket is easiest to use.
UZS131 Crown auto box is easiest to use (has slip yoke as opposed to 3 prongs, may need different bellhousing)
Of course all the standard upgrades are highly recommended.
Fuel pump, brakes, suspension, diff LSD, tyres, etc.
Umm, I think that will do for the moment.
Anything major I've missed?
I posted it up there last week, then realised it will probably do more good here.
Its also aimed at RHD conversions, so a few things may differ there. Anyone with LHD experience is welcome to contribute.
Prices are all in $AUD
Hey, I'm slack, but this thread needs to be done.
I'm just copying Joorsh's thread and changing it to suit 1UZ's
*) Find a front sump. The 1UZ engine won't clear the crossmember with other sumps, so you'll need to switch to a front sump - LS400/Celsiors and '92-on Crowns have front sumps.
*) Change the timing belt/bearings, drive belt, water pump, sparks plugs/leads/rotors/caps, thermostat, and anything else that looks munted or old. Make sure you do it before you put the engine in the car! If you can't afford to change any of these items, then you shouldn't be doing a damn engine conversion! If you can, change the front main, rear main and cam seals too. - will cost ~$1000ish to replace everything
*) If you have an engine vibration dampener, remove it. You will also need to angle-grind the mount that it sits on, right back to the crossmember. Not all MA61's had this vibration dampener thing. If you're not sure what to look for, then pull the engine out of the car. Once the engine is out, it'll be the thing sitting in the middle of your engine bay that looks like a penis.
No, really, I'm not kidding.
*) You will need new engine mounts. Available here. Stock rubber dampeners/mounts can be used, although recommended you buy new ones ($160/pr from Mackay)
*) You will need to adjust your throttle cable. It may be able to be reused, depending on what motor was originally in there (1GE, 1GGE, 5ME, 5MGE, 6MGE, MTEU, etc).
*) You can use existing high-pressure power steering line. (the one that runs to the rack). Probably worth getting them rebuilt.
*) The UZS131 (89-91) Crown log headers will come closest to fitting. Drivers side will still require mods to clear steering column. Custom extractors are definitely the way to go if you aren't turboing.
*) The 1UZ ECU can be squeezed in behind the glovebox and it's a damn tight fight. Some persuading is definitely required. The loom can also be fit through the standard firewall hole, but you need to remove the ruuber grommet altogether, and even so it's a damn tight fit - but possible.(unconfirmed)
*) If you want aircon, you will need to have metal lines fabricated to go to and from the compressor. All other lines should be OK. You'll need a front sump style aircon compressor. Others will not clear dipstick tube.
*) You'll need a front sump style oil filter mount. Others will not clear swaybar/crossmember.
*) Get a power steering cooler. Nothing flash - just pilfer one off a crown or something. Make sure you don't hook it up in line with the pressurised side! If you don't get a power steering cooler, budget for buying a new steering rack every 6-12 months.
*) You will need a gearbox bellhousing/clutch/flywheel. Many places to get this from now, I suggest a search. CRS and Dellow are the main suppliers. Auto tranny crossmembers are a perfect fit for the W5x boxes. MA70 shifter position is the one you want.
*) The tailshaft should still fit provided your car was manual - but will need to be lengthened ~2" if using my mounts.
*) Tacho will work fine (not sure about MTEU dash), but will read incorrectly (1UZ puts out 4cyl's worth of pulses), so will need to be adjusted or a box of tricks installed.
*) Get a triple core radiator if you want to give your car some stick - at minimum get the original one cleaned. Also get the inlet/outlets resized to match engine. 1UZ is 2 or 3mm bigger than M/JZ.
*) The standard 1UZ clutch fan is absoltuely fine but only comes with UZS131 Crown motors. All others have the hydraulic fan which is the bomb if you can be bothered installing it properly. Failing those 2 points, EL/AU thermos are a perfect fit and work well with Tridon temp switches.
*) You will need new fuel lines, and also to fab up a mount for a fuel filter. Different 1UZ's have the fuel inlet/outlet in different places.
*) Alternator will plug in for ex-M powered cars, will need mods for ex-G powered ones.
*) If you want to pass engineering, you'll also need an unleaded fuel filler for the petrol tank.
At the end of the day its your call whether you get a half cut, or just an engine/loom package.
Front sump/dipstick/pickup/baffle is needed.
Front sump oil filter bracket is needed - may only be $100ish new.
Front sump aircon compressor is needed.
UZS131 Crown clutch fan/bracket is easiest to use.
UZS131 Crown auto box is easiest to use (has slip yoke as opposed to 3 prongs, may need different bellhousing)
Of course all the standard upgrades are highly recommended.
Fuel pump, brakes, suspension, diff LSD, tyres, etc.
Umm, I think that will do for the moment.
Anything major I've missed?