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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, sorry I haven't been very active the last year or so, other (non-automotive) projects been filling the brain, truth be told I was having second thoughts and almost sold the XX, but snapped out of it and realised I have a rare, awesome car in the garage that I don't owe money on and can start mutating.

Anyway cut to the chase right? Have always been on/off about the idea of doing a 1UZFE swap, and have been searching the last couple of days to try answer a question (concern) I have always had about it, which is "why does everybody use the mounts that make you move the engine/trans forward and get a new driveshaft and shifter?"

Seriously I can't find an explanation anywhere, it's like one of those things that just is and nobody questions it. My best guess is it has something to do with the sump hitting the crossmember maybe? I don't know, figure I would have found at least one thread or discussion by now.

So if any of you have an answer please by all means go ahead. And if in fact I actually have no google skills and there is an explanation somewhere, please link me :)

Cheers
Sam
 

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The reason alot of people use peewee's mounts is that it positions the front sump UZ is the best (compromise wise) and easiest spot over the front cross member in relation to oil pan, steering rack, steering shaft/header, and pulley clearance. You can move the engine further back and down by modifying the crossmember and or oil pans, but the steering rack placement is the real limiting factor with the engine height. Also note, the further back and down you move the engine the bigger hole you dig yourself if you plan to route exhaust past the steering couplers and shaft. Your RHD setup may be a bit more complaint than our US versions, but I would assume its just a mirrored over version of ours with teh same issues. Not to say it cant be done, as it certainly can. David has done some nice modified headers on his LS supra which can give you an idea if you look for his build thread.

Post #265 in my thread shows the relation of the crossmember and engine when mated with peewee's mounts.

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?56444-Mike-s-(Supersubs-s)-Big-Boy-Build&p=757687#post757687


I used peewee's mounts since they were available and easy, back when I wouldn't have been comfortable or bothered to design my own and make the modifications to move the engine. If I were to do it again, I certainly would move the engine back a good 2" and make the needed modification to the crossmember.


-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mike that was the best answer I could have hoped for, thank you, and yeah that picture you linked really spells it out. So in conclusion yes it can be mounted both forward and normally, but at some point a choice has to be made about whether the engine bay gets messed with, or whether the trans/shaft gets messed with, and I can see why most people would rather deal with the trans stuff.

RA65? Don't be silly Billy, I'll go dry-sump before I do that :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I don't have a problem with getting a new shaft made, I just thought it was weird how I couldn't find out why everybody followed this path, but all up to speed now :)

Im assuming yours is manual CelicaDrifts, did you use an auto trans cross member or just turn the stock one around 180 degrees?
 

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Stock auto x member flipped around with slight modification
 

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Oh ok, hadn't come across anybody using that method yet, but as long as it works that what matters :)
If it came down to it a fully custom trans x member would be fairly easy to make
 

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If you have the ability to construct a new crossmember, could you just bolt the W58 up to its stock mounts and the 1UZ up to the W58 and have it fit?

I am going to do this swap over the coming winter and I work in a Fabrication shop so making heavy duty parts (like a crossmember) is really easy for me. I'd prefer that over tiny little transmission mounts. And with a new crossmember I could also tie in other chassis parts to stiffen the chassis. Thoughts?

Taylor
 

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Yes you can just bolt the 1uz and w58 together and install it(If you purchased an adapter plate or new bell housing).Your stock trans mount may not line up with the bolt holes depending on what your doing for engine mounts.

I would mount the engine and trans in the car, with the trans mounts off. And just jack up the trans until perfect alignment. Then build a prototype mount out of cardboard first. Remember you can build a really strong mount but it all comes down to the 4 bolts holding it up, and mainly the rubber in between the mount and trans.
 

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Yes you can just bolt the 1uz and w58 together and install it(If you purchased an adapter plate or new bell housing).Your stock trans mount may not line up with the bolt holes depending on what your doing for engine mounts.

I would mount the engine and trans in the car, with the trans mounts off. And just jack up the trans until perfect alignment. Then build a prototype mount out of cardboard first. Remember you can build a really strong mount but it all comes down to the 4 bolts holding it up, and mainly the rubber in between the mount and trans.
I was thinking of bolting the two together, then bolting the W58 up loosely to its mounts and then seeing what kind of mounts I need to make for the 1UZ. I will definitely be going solids mounts because I have a very high tolerance for NVH.
 

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I was thinking of bolting the two together, then bolting the W58 up loosely to its mounts and then seeing what kind of mounts I need to make for the 1UZ. I will definitely be going solids mounts because I have a very high tolerance for NVH.
You may find that the pan on the 1uzfe doesn't have a lot of room. I'll take some pics of how close my pan is to me crossmember. It's tight.
 

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You may find that the pan on the 1uzfe doesn't have a lot of room. I'll take some pics of how close my pan is to me crossmember. It's tight.
Thats what I was afraid of, If I do have clearence issues I will probably just end up removing material off the crossmember and reinforcing it and the entire front chassis of the car. I have a family friend who was a racecar engineer so I am not to worried about not being able to compensate for the removed material infact i think i can make it stronger. A picture would be nice though, thanks!

And what year of 1UZ do you have and what year of oil pan?
 

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Thats what I was afraid of, If I do have clearence issues I will probably just end up removing material off the crossmember and reinforcing it and the entire front chassis of the car. I have a family friend who was a racecar engineer so I am not to worried about not being able to compensate for the removed material infact i think i can make it stronger. A picture would be nice though, thanks!

And what year of 1UZ do you have and what year of oil pan?
I'm running an 95 celsior 1uz with front sump pan, same as 91 ls400 pans
 
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