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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK, this is just the begining, I will add the detailed wiring diagrams and pics in the next few days, and the missing parts as soon as I finish them. Hope you will enjoy, and sorry for any spelling mistakes, English is not my native language, and I had no spell checker (I used word pad). :)

2JZ-GE into MA61: How to do it!
by Punky


First, let me introduce myself, I am a Toyota fen for many years now. I am not a professional mechanic, but these last years I started doing this as well, since I constantly modify and increase my collection of old Toyotas. I have 2 MA61's, one AE92, one AE86, one AE82 (now for parts only), and one KP61. This write up is based on my own engine swap experience, which was also well researched and planned beforehand. I would like to take the chance and thank all the guys who had done this specific (or similar) engine swaps and had written write ups, or extensive posts on the forum! I am realtively new to the MA61, got my first one this March (2005) and my second one this August, but thanks to the helpful people of the I alreday feel like I've always owned this car! Thank you to you all! Also special thanks goes to the friends and fens from the forum for their support, and especially to Heki, Bad Dog, and ALTEZZOV for making this swap possible! Now back to business...:).
My engine came from a Lexus GS300 from 1993 (California Spec.) and Auto transmission, Traction Control, etc. My MA61 is P-type Manual transmission, October 1983 model again California spec. has in-tank fuel pump! This write up assumes you want to use the new engine via MANUAL Transmission and no use of Traction Control! This swap (excluding A/C modifications) was done by me alone in 6 working days, BUT with the help of professional service equipment! You will need your friends if you concider doing it in your backyard/garage. I was lucky enough to be able to dismantle my engine from the donnor car. Before that, I started the car and made sure it was in full opoerational condition, plus I knew the real milage of the engine: 24,700miles (about 36,000kms)...:). Since my 5M-GE had already 550,000kms on, I used as many of the Lexus parts as possible, simply because they were almost new. In case your engine comes out with old and worn parts, do not hesitate to replace them, to avoid future faliures of your car! The idea (for now) is to make this car a nice long distnce traval vehicle, with all the luxury extras working, no loud exhost system, no stiff suspension, just pure comfortable and relaiable Toyota transportation, with style and a bit more power to enjoy! Yes, turbo kits and future mods have been passing through my head, but as of now, I manage to resist them successfully... will see for how long, though?!....:)

What you need from the Lexus:

1.Complete engine with all its accessories (i.e., alternator, power-steering pump, A/C compressor) plus:
- engine mounts
- upper and lower radiator hoses
2.Complete engine wiring harness with its plugs, plus the alternator plug!
3.ECU plus the single 40pin plug with as much as possible length of wires sticking out of it
4.Fuel pump ECU (optional)
5.The Coil and ignitor set (they unbolt together with their metal support frame)
6.AFM (air flow meter)
7.Intake air hoses
8.First catalyzer which polts onto the double exhoust manifolds
9. Second catalyzer and a pipe with the 3rd oxygen sensor (optional)
10.Bellhosing from the auto transmission (optional)
11.Fuel pump (optional)

What you need to get NEW and/or used:

1.Lexus GS300 M/T or Supra MKIV non-turbo complete Clutch kit
2.Lexus GS300 M/T or Supra MKIV non-turbo flywheel
3.Lexus GS300 M/T or Supra MKIV non-turbo bellhousing (optional)
4.Celica Supra MA61 main clutch bearing (in case yours is old and worn)
5. Any other service part you might want to change before puting the engine in (e.g., thermostat, timing belt, srvice belt, etc.)
6. EFI Fuel filter

Modifications Required

Transmission Modification
You have two main options here:
1.Get a new or used W58 transmission JZ-series bellhousing from Lexus GS300 M/T, or Supra MKIV non-turbo. I would guess you will need a slave cylinder, and a fork with it as well. This bellhousing will bolt straight to your original W58 Celica Supra gearbox, and to your new engine. Here in Europe Toyota asks 350euros for a new one, and a used one is almost impossible to find.
2.Save a lot of money, but spend some labour and nerves, and modify your bellhousing. For this one, you will need the bellhousing off the auto transmission of the JZ engine. The main difference between the M and JZ sereis W58 bellhousings, besides the hole pattern of course, is their depth! The M-series bellhosing is deeper than the JZ bellhousing. I have NOT got the exact difference in depth, as I never had the JZ series bellhousing to measure, but my guess would be between 12 to 20mm! The difference comes from the different designs of the M engines and JZ engines. Simply, the flywheel of the M engines stands further outward from the engine block in comparison to the JZ engines. Furthermore, there is a difference in the design of the clutch pressure plate between the two, where the JZ one has the spring plates further inward than the M pressure plate does. I found this the hard way, but you do not need to do the same mistake any longer, which is good news...:)!
Basically you will need to cut off the front flanges of both bellhousings. Cut the original M-series bellhousing just after the second (internal) aluminium bolt bracket of the slave cylinder! Cut the auto bellhousing 25mm from the top down. Place the auto trans. flange onto the bottom end of the original bellhousing, and aluminium MIG weld them. Use the little ventilation hole at the bottom (i.e., 6 o'clock) of both to allign them correctly! Weld inside and ouside, as well as between the supporting ribs to insure maximum durability and strenght! You will have two wider holes to plug along the welding edge cicle, so cut off two aluminium pices and weld them along to completely plug the bellhousing. Use two of the aluminium bolt brackets from the bottom end of the auto transmission (cut them away) and weld them to the new bellhousing, once the engine and gearbox were installed in the car! This way you will get the proper angle and position of the slave cylinder! Once this is done, you are ready to go...:)!

Engine and transmission positioning
Here you have few options as well:
1.Get ready-made M-series to JZ-series engine mounts from Australia, and save yourself some work and nerves!
These should make the swap quite easy, just a simple bolt-on, and you are done.
2.Use Nrobie's modification ( which includes Land Cruiser engine mounts and mods to the crossmember.
Check Norbie's web page for detailed explaination, pictures, and measurements.
3.Use the original Lexus mounts and modify the crossmember accordingly.
This is what I did. Simply cut out the original brackets off the crossmember of the MA61. Then depending on which bellhosing you will be using, place the engine in the car, insert and tighten 2-3 bolts, so that the gearbox and the engine line in together as usual. Underneath the car, place the crossmemebr on its original place, you will see that the lower bolts of the rubber mounts of the lexus just about clear the rear end of the crossmember, if they do not, they should! make sure that the transmission crossmember is placed at its most rear position: the 4 holes of the crossmember allow for some minimal adjustment! When doing that, also pay attention to the front crank pulley which might come too close to the front sway bar! In any case the mounts should be bolted just about to the crossmember level. In my case the LH side bracket is about 10mm above the crossmember, and the RH side is simply welded to the crosmember. Once you are happy with the position, which means, install the radiator and make sure there is enough clearance between it and the cooling fan, make sure that the bonnet is cleared, and that the front cranck pulley is not too close to the fron sawy bar, then cut two pices of carton with reasonable reactangular size, pierce the holes, exactly where the main bolt and supporting pin of the engine mounts will pass, leave the carton pices there hanging on the mounts, and cut the rest of the supporting pices of the future brackets, tape them together. Take them out, measure them, and reproduce them from at least 2mm thick sheet of metal. Dismantle the crossmember and weld the new brackets to it. Paint the entire crossmember to avoid rust, and install the new modified crossmember to the car, tighten the nuts of the rubber mounts, and you are ready to take off the engine hoist and admire your work!...:)
4.Come up with your own way of solving this problem.
I leave this one to your own creativity and imagination, just make sure you do a write up about it later...:).

Harness and wiring
Make sure the negative wire is plugged OUT of the Battery!
The harness of the 2JZ-GE is independent, so you can dismantle the engine with the harness on. The haress ends with the doble ECU 40+40 pin plug (grey yellow) and the female part of the IK1 and IK2 harness to harness connector. The ECU also has a single 40pin plug which you need to cut out from the car with as much length of the wires as possible. Also unbolt the complete ignitor+coil set with their metal frame from the Lexus.
Charging system:
Basically substitute the 3-wire alternator plug from the MA61 to the one from the 2JZ alternator. Connect the following wires:
Enlarge the diameter of the main positive wire of the MA61, and bolt it on the 2JZ aternator and you are ready with this mod.
Make sure you install good ground wires to the engine and the body! I used new thick wires for this one.
Fuel pump:
ok, the easiest way to make the fuel pump work, is to put a small wire and join the 2 pins of the fule pump check connector located just before the 5MGE AFM wire plug. This will make the pump work when the Ignition switch is ON, but is not recmmended for driving, as it lacks any safty in case of an accident. So, the Lexus Fuel pump ECU is stongly recommanded to be installed, or any other safty switch or system build. You can use this method until you start the engine, but driving like that is a serious danger in case of an accident, as the pump will continiue to work, even with the engine off, and if any fuel line is broken it will spray gasoline all around and increase the risk of fire and/or explosion!!! So, do install some safty measure!
Prepare the harness for instalation:
-Take away the plastic protection of the harness which stands behind and above the engine on the fire wall. Make a substitution protection of the harness using electric tape and plstic harness tube of the apropriate diameter size.
-Cut out the metal frame with the rubber proptector and take it off the harness.
-After labeling the wires you need from the IK1 and IK2 female plug using the provided digram, cut it out (it won't pass though the hole in the firewall).
-Connect together the Black and Black/White wires of the ECU and IK1&2 plugs, and leave 20cm common wire sticking out of the elctric tape insolation (this will bypass the Neutural Start Switch).
-Open the plastic protection of the harness bolted to the intake plenum, and find one of the Black/Orange wires, carefully slice the protection of the wire and wire in (and solder) a new wire of the same size with length of about 60cm. Then isolate well with electric tape, and close the harness protector, leaving the new wire you just attached to hang out, it will be used to plug into the single wire plug where the injector resistor of the 5M-GE used to be plugged.
Install the harness:
Take out the round rubber insulator from the harness hole on the fire wall of the MA61, slice it on one side. Stick the double ECU plug into the hole of the firewall where the old harness used to pass, and then the wires from the ex-IK1&2 connector (you might want to tape them together, so they go in smootly). Once you pulled the plug and wires inside the car, you are ready to start some serious inter wiring...:) Make sure you put back the round rubber insolator on the hole of the fire wall to avoid damage to the harness! Cut the piece with one bolt hole and plastic wire holder, from the 2JZ reactangular metal frame and rubber protector which you took away, use it to secure the harness to the MA61 firewall as seen here.
Inside wiring:
Sit on the passanger seat comfortably and make sure you have a portable light there. Make sure you have the soldering iron, electric tape, and players on the floor in your feet (do not burn the carpet with the soldering iron!!!), as well as the provided diagrams and this manual, so you can always double-check what you are doing!

There are two main plugs of the MA61 there which are of our concern:
1.the big 5MGE ECU plug
2.another one (yellow) female. Cut out the male part of this plug with some length of wires from the 5M-GE harness!

Start with the Starter....:) There are two thicker wires coming out of the yellow plug in question, one is blak, the other is blak/white. Connect the black/white wire to the thick black wire from the IK1&2 connector. Connect the black wire to the single wire you have hanging off the harness (the one you left from the Neutural Start Switch by-pass).
Plug the yellow connector, plug the negative wire to the Battery, turn the key... the engine should be cranking. Unplug the negative wire from the Battery!
Connect the two Brown wires from the yellow plug to a good Ground.
Using the diagram provided, connect the following wires from the ECU single grey and yellow 40pin plug to the wires going in the yellow 5MGE ECU plug!

Ignition & AFM:
Mount the frame with the ignitor and coil to the RH shock pillar. Place the frame (with the coil facing downword, make two holes into the pillar allaigning the two top bolt holes of the frame, bolte the frame using two 6mm bolts, nuts and spacers. The side of the ignitor should be onthe same level (or slightly lower) as the top of the pillar. Plug in the coil and the ignitor to their respectful plugs, plug the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. Plug the AFM to its plug.

Air Filter
After installing the original 2JZ intake air hoses and silence box plus AFM on you can use any aftermarket air filter as long as it comes with the necessary AFM to filter adapter. Custum farbricate some kind of supporting arm to hold the AFM+fiter+hoses securely in place.

Once you dismantle the 2JZ-GE from the Lexus, there should only be 1 single vacum hose sticking out unplugged! Use it to plug it to the same place where the 5M-GE vacum hose used to plug into the vacum system of the cruise control actuator, A/C, VSV's, water valve etc., and you are all set!...:)
The 2JZ brake booster vacum hose needs a bit of shortening and plugs into the booster outlet, as if it was made for this car!...:)
The original Lexus radiator hoses can be used succssfully, the lower one needs no modification, the upper one needs a tiny bit of shortening, and will just fit to the radiator.
I used the original MA61 loser heater hoses, had to shorten a tiny bit. And I used the original Lexus top water hose, where I shortened it to size, and plugged it into the water valve.
Hoses? This is easy stuff...:).

The original 2JZ intake fule hose will bolt right up to the end of the MA61 intake fuel line, the obvious problem is that in this case you are left without fuel filter! I chose to place one just after the tank. The return hose needs to be shortened a bit, and will perfectly will fit into the MA61 return fuel line and... yes, you are done!..:)
I belive the original 5M-GE fuel pump is perfectly sufficient for the 2JZ-GE engine, however, you may want to choose and install the original 2JZ pump, which is much smaller than the original, and will require an extra clamp to hold it to the fuel pump assambly.

Flywheel and Clutch
Use the 8 bolts and common washer which held in place the gear ring of the auto set up, and bolt on the flywheel to the crank. Install the clutch as you would normally, use good quality new bolts to bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel! Use the original MA61 main clutch bearing, or a new one of the same type.

in progress

in progress

Exhost system
The first and the second catalyzers can easily fit underneath the MA61, after that a custum made pipe and muffler will be requred.

Put cooling liquid in the system. Make sure the engine has oil inside. Plug the negative wire to the Battery, turn the key on...(if evrything was done accordingly)... the engine should START!...:) CONGRATULATIONS!... if not, make sure there is gasoline in the tank, make sure there is spark to the plugs, that the battery is not dead, go back and double check your work, fix it, and then try again!

1,953 Posts
Very good writeup

My motor was from a 92 SC and the plug on the MA61 body for the alternator is identical to the plug on the 2JZ harness for the alternator, so all I had to do was plug it in, I also have a 95 alt and the plug is different, so I'm assuming that the 92-94 2JZ-GE's have the alt. with the same plug as ours. Just a small bit of random info.

184 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
lacrssgus14 said:
Very good writeup

My motor was from a 92 SC and the plug on the MA61 body for the alternator is identical to the plug on the 2JZ harness for the alternator, so all I had to do was plug it in, I also have a 95 alt and the plug is different, so I'm assuming that the 92-94 2JZ-GE's have the alt. with the same plug as ours. Just a small bit of random info.
as for the alternator plug, it seems that september 93 on model came with the new plug! my engine is off the GS300 from 1993, and if yours was sc92, it would make sense that the new model from september 1993 on, comes out with the new plug... I guess?!...:)

184 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
a quick update:
I had finally taken the 2hours it required to install the original GS300 fuel pump in the tank, and also the fuel pump ECU which came with it. Until now I was driving with the original MK2 fuel pump, which under hard acceleration would lean out. I first installed the original pump, and tried the car that way, it improved a lot, but still was rather hesitant. Then I installed the fuel pump ECU, I mounted it on the place of the original bass woofer under the dash (my 2JZ ECU rests in the feet of the passenger - as it did on the GS300) then I run a wire from it to the main circuit opening relay and attached it to the fuel pump wire, cutting it off after the relay, and the engine now operates so much more smother it's incredible! The torque has increased and feels so much more even and smooth, it's amazing!
Conclusion: use the OEM fuel pump ECU, as it improves the 2JZ operation tremendously!
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