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Discussion Starter #1
OK...it's been several years of swap this swap that in the MKII world. 5mgte/7m/1j/2j/UZ etc.
With all these different choices...how does the choice of going 5mgte hold up to today?

Background...I have a problem, I collect Supras. I have 2 of each gen but a MKI, plus a 1jz powered Mazda b series.

1. My wife's 94 is single 500+ whp. My 93 is still on twins with 400whp.
2. My 86.5 Is NA 5spd, the 88 is now for parts.
3. The 85 SDR is auto with a great running 140k 5m, but needs LSD. My 85 2tone is now for parts after vandalism. :(
4. The b2600i is still on the 1jz twins and runs like a scalding hot pig !!!

I'd like to boost the 85's 5m using the tried and true methods using 7mgte parts and a 8.1 RRFPR with a Bosch 044 fp.
Looking for 225-250 whp once I swap the rear and put in a spare W58 (W55) from an IS300 I have.

I'm not averse wrenching or wiring...being doing it for 30 years. Several swaps under my belt now.

If you where shooting for that kind of power today..what would you go with? I like the 5m..it's different, and EVERYONE
has a JZ swap in their "insert car". So having a 5mgte appeals to me. And it keeps the old girl period correct looking.

Maybe 6m later if I like the 5mgte's performance. Or even a SC14 setup. That looks cool.

Any insight would be beneficial.

B
 

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I'd built one of each, a 6mgte and then later swapped in a 7mgte. The 7m had longer legs, but stoplight to stoplight, the 6mgte spooled up quicker and had more low end torque, theoretically because it had a higher base compression. But as I was getting older, I had less interest in racing and more interest in building cars for show. I sold the one with the 7mgte swap and kept the 6m thinking that it maintained that period correct look under hood. I've since put the mk2 on the back burner while I worked on some much older project cars, but the mk2 is just now starting to reach the age where its original teen fan base is getting grey hairs and suffering mid-life crisis. In the next couple of years I'll get back to it (still have a new interior to install and want to change the paint color), but yes, the look of the twin cam towers and wrinkle finish valve covers is definitely a key part of the nostalgic appeal.
 

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Whistles
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Go to the dark side.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd built one of each, a 6mgte and then later swapped in a 7mgte. The 7m had longer legs, but stoplight to stoplight, the 6mgte spooled up quicker and had more low end torque, theoretically because it had a higher base compression. But as I was getting older, I had less interest in racing and more interest in building cars for show. I sold the one with the 7mgte swap and kept the 6m thinking that it maintained that period correct look under hood. I've since put the mk2 on the back burner while I worked on some much older project cars, but the mk2 is just now starting to reach the age where its original teen fan base is getting grey hairs and suffering mid-life crisis. In the next couple of years I'll get back to it (still have a new interior to install and want to change the paint color), but yes, the look of the twin cam towers and wrinkle finish valve covers is definitely a key part of the nostalgic appeal.
Well said. I do like the nostalgia it brings to me. My first time driving a stick was an 84 Celica. In 1984 !!! I'm really leaning towards a 5mgte build.

For the guys that have done the 5m turbo route.....is this still the best combo of hard parts for a reliable build? On a hi comp 85 5m with like 7psi?

7mgte manifold
Ct26 turbo - Driftmotion?
Bosch 044 fp
8.1 RRFPR
AEM WB and UEGO

I like the HKS SSQV and Tial 38-44 WG i run on my MKIV's will prolly still with those.
The stock ECU seems up to the task at this level. I'll want to go MicroSquirt later on though.

Thanks

B
 

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I haven't done any research, but now in modern times it ought to be much easier and cheaper to install a standalone, programmable ECU and ditch all the piggyback stuff. That would allow you to use larger injectors and take advantage that there's definitely more potential on a well built motor. It would also allow you to switch to a MAP sensor, straighten out the plumbing, get rid of all the EGR stuff and have a really clean engine bay with nothing much more than those twin cam towers to look at. Of course mine is a 90s era build, sticking to 6psi boost with a Cartech RRFPR and MSD BTM working mechanically to alter the driving parameters. Amazing thing is I haven't touched the settings in 18 years (tho it doesn't get driven much, that is getting old) so if you want to go that route, its well-proven and reliable. Its just limited and if I had to do over again today, I'd be looking into a quality standalone system. On the other hand, if you want the mods to be period-correct too, these mechanical devices are in fact right out of the 80s. ;)
 

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I don't really have any interest in steering you 2jz or 5m here, its such a matter of preference. There's no question which is the better motor. But do keep in mind replacement parts are already a bit of an issue for the 5m. You can't get overbore cast pistons for it anymore, its all custom forged at this point. And there are other bits that are problematic to get and it will only get worse with time. Replacement cams is a huge problem if you need them, not a huge issue if you have a motor with good ones and continue to treat it right.

As for the 5mgte setup, ct26s have always been a little finicky to rebuild reliably and are obviously a very dated design at this point. I would look at some off the shelf 7m manifold that can take off the shelf turbos like a t4 or something. And I wouldn't waste one iota of time on the stock EFI or piggybacks. Just go Megasquirt or something else right off the bat. A stock 7mgte bottom end or forged pistons would be a good idea too. You have very little head room and long term durability with the stock 5m pistons.
 
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