Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Looking nice. A good buff will get the oxidation off. My hood and fenders were just like yours and after a few hours with a drill dual action buffer it shined up pretty nice.
Little rust was the reason I got this one. Still put $4k in body and paint work into it. Swapped the sun roof for a hard top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
I like Funkycheese's idea of using a sandwich plate on the motor instead of an adapter with elbows. For one thing, the adapter fittings are too close together to allow the use of 2 elbows at the same time anyway. On my 6M, I used an adapter with straight fittings and had custom hoses made to connect to it at approximately 45 degrees instead. I mounted my oil filter behind the front bumper on the passenger side vertically which allows me to fill it before installing it. No mess removing it either. Been that way for decades. I did find that the only seal that worked well on even the Earl's adapter was one from an actual oil filter after trying virtually every other possibility on the planet and eventually cracking my first adapter trying to get it tight enough to not leak.
Using a sandwich plate should be much easier, but you'll still need to have custom hoses made to mount your filter in a better location. I'm sure you can easily make this work.
As far as the tach mods go and the MSD shitbox... I helped someone get the tach working correctly on a 2J swap a few years ago by making a small cheap box myself and I have a couple of sets of the parts used as well as small boxes they'll easily fit in. Yours for free. It's worked great for years without any problems. I first tried the resistor mod but it didn't always work and when it did, sometimes the tach response was not what was expected. My theory is that the resistor mod just doesn't create enough voltage swing from the 2J square wave for the tach to always register it (correctly). The voltage swing created by the inductive kickback from the stock coil negative is much greater than the square wave boost with the resistor mod. I think that's why sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Our old style tach as well as just about any other older tach's expect the wild swings created by older style ignitions which by nature varied significantly from vehicle to vehicle, but were always significant enough to trigger properly.
Virtually all of MSD's crap sucks as bad as their customer support. They're big on drag cars as those folks are used to hauling their cars home on a trailer anyway. It's not such a big deal when things fail for them. But on street cars, parts failing regularly, especially right after the warranty runs out is bad, really bad. Parts thats burst into flames when they fail are dangerous beyond description and MSD should stop selling them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
I definitely want to have the oil filter in a different location. Just finding the correct fittings and making up the lines.
The resistor delete is working fine now. Works pretty much the same as the signal booster I had in there previously. Time will tell.
Thanks for the words of wisdom.
Also, the mud flap got fixed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Got my A/C working. Not sure if it is charged all the way since I ran out of bottles of 134A, A/C is weak and the low side pressure will not go below 50psi when it should be in the 20psi range.
Updated the thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Had a bad/weak A/C compressor. Replaced with new Denso unit and all is well with the world.
A/C with the dual radiator fans running pulls down the idle rpms quite a bit and the ECU is only slightly compensating. I can't seem to find the wire to the ECU to increase the throttle/idle control. I have repurposed a VSV to act for this purpose and it mostly works. Think I need a larger diameter opening to make it work better but at some point I am fighting the ECU which wants the idle at around 700. Problem is the car shakes at 700 when under the A/C and radiator fan load.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,479 Posts
Isn't it on the AC unit itself? The connector to the JZ ac units has 4 wires. 2 are for some kind of diagnostics as I recall and can be ignored, one is the switch, though it triggers different? And the 4th is for the idle up isn't it? Its all fuzzy, been awhile since I looked at the diagrams.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
There is an MPX signal from the body ecu that controls when the AC compressor comes on by sending a signal to the ECU and then the ECU triggers the AC compressor through the ACMG signal. The only thing is that the MPX signal can mean a lot of different things. At least a lot of the body ECU messages goes to the ECU through the MPX + and MPX -. Not sure what supplying it with +12 would do or if it even is supposed to have +12. ECU is a little too smart for me to trick.
If you do come across something please let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,518 Posts
VVti ECU is sent the aircon request signal over BEAN network (Toyota only pre-canbus system) and then engages the compressor relay using the magsw output. Not an easy way to make this work in a mk2. Earlier ECMs like in dean’s car have a pin you take to 12v I believe to request the aircon, and then it is engaged with the magsw output the same way. ECM will turn off the AC during heavy throttle or high RPM, and idles up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Darrow

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Even the guy who reprogramed my ECU says the only way is to use the VSV as an idle up. I am thinking the BEAN network is why. There is a whole logic module dedicated to the A/C.
Thanks for confirming there is no other way at the moment. Maybe someone will find a way but it works now the way it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,518 Posts
There was a module made to allow engine swaps that don’t have a BEAN compatible ECU to work in a MR2 Spyder and retain functionality like some of the gauges and the AC etc.


Something like this could be made to work, with the request signal from the car actually being sent through one of these boxes to the ECU (might need to be a ground signal instead of +12V sent to the box) and have the magsw output control the compressor as designed.

For sure this is the way to do it, just not easy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Darrow

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,910 Posts
Awesome build thread. I want to do the same to my 82 someday. Following!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,479 Posts
Yeah, the VSV thing could work. The old AE86 Corolla GTS actually uses a VSV to plumb intake pipe air around the throttle plate to raise the RPM in hot weather to keep the engine from stalling. Just wire one up similarly so that it is also turned on by the mk2 AC switch. A vacume line from your intake to the VSV, then another to a spare port on the intake manifold. Anywhere south of the throttle plate should work. If it idles too high with it on, put a restrictor in. It probably won't though.

I had to get a little primitive with the idle system on my 6m too with the 1uz TB. It doesn't have an adjustable throttle plate bypass passage like the mk2 does, so I had to plumb a vacume hose on some of the bypass air holes in the TB that were there for EGR and such, and then I drilled the holes larger until it idled right lol. Actually the base idle was never quite enough in really hot weather still, so I ended up adjusting the stopper on the throttle plate a touch so it never 100% closed.
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top