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Discussion Starter #21
Looking nice. A good buff will get the oxidation off. My hood and fenders were just like yours and after a few hours with a drill dual action buffer it shined up pretty nice.
Little rust was the reason I got this one. Still put $4k in body and paint work into it. Swapped the sun roof for a hard top.
 

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I like Funkycheese's idea of using a sandwich plate on the motor instead of an adapter with elbows. For one thing, the adapter fittings are too close together to allow the use of 2 elbows at the same time anyway. On my 6M, I used an adapter with straight fittings and had custom hoses made to connect to it at approximately 45 degrees instead. I mounted my oil filter behind the front bumper on the passenger side vertically which allows me to fill it before installing it. No mess removing it either. Been that way for decades. I did find that the only seal that worked well on even the Earl's adapter was one from an actual oil filter after trying virtually every other possibility on the planet and eventually cracking my first adapter trying to get it tight enough to not leak.
Using a sandwich plate should be much easier, but you'll still need to have custom hoses made to mount your filter in a better location. I'm sure you can easily make this work.
As far as the tach mods go and the MSD shitbox... I helped someone get the tach working correctly on a 2J swap a few years ago by making a small cheap box myself and I have a couple of sets of the parts used as well as small boxes they'll easily fit in. Yours for free. It's worked great for years without any problems. I first tried the resistor mod but it didn't always work and when it did, sometimes the tach response was not what was expected. My theory is that the resistor mod just doesn't create enough voltage swing from the 2J square wave for the tach to always register it (correctly). The voltage swing created by the inductive kickback from the stock coil negative is much greater than the square wave boost with the resistor mod. I think that's why sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Our old style tach as well as just about any other older tach's expect the wild swings created by older style ignitions which by nature varied significantly from vehicle to vehicle, but were always significant enough to trigger properly.
Virtually all of MSD's crap sucks as bad as their customer support. They're big on drag cars as those folks are used to hauling their cars home on a trailer anyway. It's not such a big deal when things fail for them. But on street cars, parts failing regularly, especially right after the warranty runs out is bad, really bad. Parts thats burst into flames when they fail are dangerous beyond description and MSD should stop selling them.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I definitely want to have the oil filter in a different location. Just finding the correct fittings and making up the lines.
The resistor delete is working fine now. Works pretty much the same as the signal booster I had in there previously. Time will tell.
Thanks for the words of wisdom.
Also, the mud flap got fixed.
 
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