Uhh, Don, I don't know where you are getting your info but I have a couple questions. How can you adjust front/rear weight distribution with a set of coil overs, and how will he get inside wheel spin with a LSD? As far as I know the coil overs can only be used to adjust cross weight and not F/R balance. Sorry, just noticed those and have to ask. Oh, and if you have a front bar that's to stiff won't you just lose traction on the front and understeer instead of actually gaining traction on the rear?
3.73 + TrueTrac installed
First, many thanks to DonL for finding River City Differentials.
I received my rebuilt diff this week from RCD and it was installed Friday.
A very nice match to the 7MGTE.
First gear is actually usable, highway cruising is very nice.
The pesky rear end whine is gone, but some residual, as I suspect it's
now the drive shaft, or just the noisey W58 resonating through the driveshaft.
Next project: 3" stainless exhaust.
I received my rebuilt diff this week from RCD and it was installed Friday.
A very nice match to the 7MGTE.
First gear is actually usable, highway cruising is very nice.
The pesky rear end whine is gone, but some residual, as I suspect it's
now the drive shaft, or just the noisey W58 resonating through the driveshaft.
Next project: 3" stainless exhaust.
1 - 4 of 19 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply, I didn't realize that raising or lowering the front together would give that much of a difference, I guess I just haven't played with it to the extremes you have. I've been helping set up a friend's RX7 and we've been playing with the suspension a lot. It's funny, I had completely forgotten that most LSDs require some friction, thank you for bringing that up, I guess it just means either get a full locker or make sure the suspension is tuned correctly. Just out of curiosity do you have any favorite alignment angles for toe and caster. I know running more caster will give more stability at high speed but if you go to much you lift the outside of the tire off the ground on sharp turns. I have access to an alignment rack at work and can do whatever I want with it so I can play with my car that way. Any hints will be appreciated.
I think you can also adjust front caster, if it's like my car then there are two big nuts on the strut rod that allow you to move it forward or backwards to change the amount of caster by a pretty good amount. In case anyone else is curious I've found running front and rear toe at about 0, instead of pretty far positive which is stock, and caster around 4.5 degrees instead of the stock 3.5 degrees works pretty well. I'll let anyone that is interested know for sure after I run Willow Springs at the end of the month.
Don,
You are right about the rear toe and I may set it back in towards stock specs. I'm just experimenting right now and I need to go out and drive it hard to see what it really does. I'll probably get a chance to do that friday and I'll let you know how it goes. I'm not running toe out, it's right at 0 degrees, it's just farther out than stock. I think I had it at about 1/16" per side before and it was very neutral. I'm talking to a local shop about making a rear suspension that allows camber adjustment, it's slow going because I have finals coming up but hopefully over summer I can get somewhere.
You are right about the rear toe and I may set it back in towards stock specs. I'm just experimenting right now and I need to go out and drive it hard to see what it really does. I'll probably get a chance to do that friday and I'll let you know how it goes. I'm not running toe out, it's right at 0 degrees, it's just farther out than stock. I think I had it at about 1/16" per side before and it was very neutral. I'm talking to a local shop about making a rear suspension that allows camber adjustment, it's slow going because I have finals coming up but hopefully over summer I can get somewhere.
1 - 4 of 19 Posts
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