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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
4" dash speaker retro fit

Starting with the drivers side
- Driver side
--Driver side knee bolster removed and 4" speaker mocked up using combination of existing mounting points, plumbers strap, rubber hose, and a small length of wooden dowel. Note angle of speaker orientation (more on that later...)
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Fitting metal conduit to shape to meet inside face of knee bolster
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Foam seal installed around where the 4" metal conduit meets knee bolster panel.
& Conduit positioned and sealed to front of speaker
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Inital fitting
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another angle
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Close up
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Sealing around edges where conduit, foam, and knee bolster meet.
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another angle
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Close up shot of drivers side as viewed from the outside, note painstaking compromise between orientation to the opening and angle of speaker (aimed as best possible towards driver given constraints behind dash, the knee bolster is VERY tight fit getting it back into place)
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Passanger side front dash 4" speak install
- Passanger side mock up of "can"
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More to come...

Supra_toy
 

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Nice job. I did this not that long after buying the car new. There wasn't/isn't a decent 3 1/2" speaker, made no matter what the cost! Same for Toyota 5x7" football shaped speakers like in the rear. Tried lots of both which was a huge waste of of time and money. But back then, I also was helping a couple of mfg's with their high end car stereo stuff and doing custom installs for family and friends, so I wrote a lot of stuff off to "development".
That 4" looks like it's from a set of separates. I have no idea what brand it might be.
I mounted 1" tweeters on the mirror trim panels on the top front of both doors and stuffed the crossovers wherever they would fit under each side of the dash. No fun running the tweeter wires thru the flexible rubber tubes to each door that's already got plenty of wires in it, but well worth the effort.
In the rear, I made adapter plates for 5 1/4" mid bass'from a set of Boston Acoustics separates. At first, I did install the crossovers and tweeters, but eventually removed them, just leaving the mid bass driver for rear fill, which sounds great. To me, the rear tweeters made it sound more like I was sitting inside a giant pair of headphones, which eventually drove me crazy, kind of like very old 4 channel setups did. No one really wants to be on stage with the band. I much prefer the band to (appear to) be somewhere on the hood!
I built a custom carpeted sub box, actually a few of them, that fits tight up against the back of the rear seats with the sub and rear amps mounted on the angled front side virtually out of sight. If you know where to look, you can see a bit of each amp in the narrow slot between the seat backs and the privacy panel. The power wiring for both amps as well as the wiring to the rear speakers is done with unique plugs so that unplugging them and the signal cables makes the box easily removable. Easily is not really the truth though. While I can lift and remove it myself, I much prefer help lifting that 90 pound beast in and out when I have to, which fortunately isn't very often. The front amp is under the passenger seat.
The subs are bottom mounted and the box has carpeted legs which lifts it about 1 1/4" off the hatch floor. The box with 2x 10" subs sounded great. But the extra couple of inches of space it took away made it a PITA to fit some normal stuff back there easily. I finally redid the smaller box that I'd initially tried 2x (good) and 4x (sucked) 8" subs in for 4x 6 1/2" subs which also sounds great.
Even with the hatch open, virtually no one notices anything that doesn't look like it was OEM thanks to the carpeting matching the OEM stuff really well. And other than the 1" tweeters up front, nothing else is obvious either.
Keep up the good work! I'm sure that everyone here appreciates the effort to detail what it takes to make decent sound in our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
NVX (Fairly new, and mostly new to me as well, I guess its sonicelectronix.com house brand)
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Pile "o' gear
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4" NVX V series coax w/25mm silk tweater (speakers subject of this install)

As for the rears I still haven't gotten around to fitting the stock location, the 4"x 6" were not a good fit, nor were the 5" x 7"... The 4" x 6" wound up in the doors of "Lola truck" (86 ford f150). I'm running a component set in loose boxes in the back (Oz audio 6.5"... Old school) and a pair of A/D/S A series 10"s in a sealed box sitting on top of the rear seats (folded down) facing rearward. 5ch amp VAD11005 | 5-Channel Marine Amplifier with Bass Remote | NVX
and a 1F cap
Initial testing setup (with the original amp, JAD900.5 a 900 watt amp that later had a channel develop static, that sonicelectroix upgraded for free to the 1100 watt.
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then tear it out...
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new mount
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
...more of the passenger side dash speaker replacement

A better look of the sealing of the speaker to the inner can
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Sound deadener applied to can and fitting into place
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another shot
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some shrink wrap going over the terminals (this is the driver side)
14658
 

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Being an EE, among other things, I see caps as a band aid that likely only help in very limited circumstances. That is to say that while theoretically they might make sense, nearly all of the time they're just another added electrical load. I've tried them and definitely couldn't detect any "improvement" in anything. Maybe because my system has adequately sized power wires and is supplied with enough current from the battery and alternator to meet its demands at any level I ask of it. Or maybe because all of my amps have their own more than adequately sized power supply caps. Who knows? But they do look good and I definitely didn't detect any problems using them either.
I see I'm not the only one with a lifetime supply of backstraps that get used like duck tape, for anything and everything!
Much old school stuff is worth more today than it cost new. I have an A/D/S sub in my house that I bought new in 84. Still kicks absolute ass. It also has 2x 10's in a sealed box with a built in 100W x2 amp and an external crossover.
My car sub amp is a Harmon Kardon 60WPC that's still considered one of the best ever made. It'll put out about 3x that.
I'll bet your A/D/S subs make just about anything else seem ... well a waste of money and musically just wrong. Keep up the good work! Dr. Morse approves!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Being an EE, among other things, I see caps as a band aid that likely only help in very limited circumstances...
I believe the supra falls within those limited circumstances. Being a scientist myself (chemist turned mechanic), I appreciate the theory behind the electronics. The supra limited electrical system is barley sufficient with it's factory load. Using a led volt meter that I installed in the dash, I've noticed a more stable reading after the addition of the cap. I also changed all the marker, brake, and signal lights to led's (which also got rid of the annoying dip seen on the factory volt gauge when the blinkers were applied)

Is some of the improvement Psychoacoustical? Probably, but its got a pretty blue volt meter on it!

The wiring is up to the task, High quality wire everywhere (OFC only), The big three have been up graded (+ battery to alternator, - battery to frame, and frame to engine) 4ga run to the amp, very short run from the cap to the amp.

...I'll bet your A/D/S subs make just about anything else seem ... well a waste of money and musically just wrong. Keep up the good work! Dr. Morse approves!
Yep Love the A/D/S subs, had them a long time, and while they take up a lot of space and the box weighs a frickn ton they still seem to end up back in the supra!

Upgraded Alt + (4ga with anti-abrasion jacket and loom)
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Upgraded frame to block (4ga)
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Battery (-) to frame
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Jacket to (+) to alternator visible (still using a temp negative terminal, I have a nice one I've been to lazy to install)
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Shinny!
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Showing orientation and size of wire going into/out of cap and amp
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another angle
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Discussion Starter #7
I love how easy it is to add pictures now, I hated uploading into photobucket the dealing with all the image linking crap...
 
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