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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a junkyard 5M-GE into my Cressida. Finally I got rid of all the ECU codes. The car starts after a little hesitation, hasn't stalled on me once. But the engine vibrates and it lacks power under load. I did a compression test:

157-149-150-150-151-162

Checked the plug wires, new cap and rotor, swapped injectors with a set that are known to be working. Still shakes with not much power. The timing is also set properly.

Here are my questions:

1. I pull the spark plug wires 1, 4 and 6 off the plugs with the engine running without any change in engine idle or vibration. Removing 2, 3 and 5 drop the idle. Any ideas why those plugs make no difference? I checked the actual plugs, and they don't look too bad.

2. My Air/Fuel ratio gauge is showing a stoich reading from the second I start the car and doesn't change much after it's warmed up. I don't recall it showing any ratio until the O2 sensor was warmed up with the last engine, but that was in the winter. What's normal readings for the air/fuel ratio at startup and idle?

3. I installed a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, should that have an effect on engine vibration?

4. Could the TPS sensor make the engine vibrate and lack power? I tried to adjust it so that it would meet all variables in the TSRM, but it's slightly out of range of some of them.

Thanks in advance,

Christian
 
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:cry: Sounds like valves or fuel problem on those cylinders. You have to have spark or it would'nt run. That my 2 cents worth
Dick B.
 

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The aftermarkey flywheel could very well be your problem. They are great for high reving racing. But they do loose bottom end torque from what I've heard. The vibration may be from the fly wheel also. Engines are usually externally balanced at the flywheel. So the new one might not have the same balance wieghts. Call the manufactor and ask how they are balanced. You might end up having to but the old one back on. If the aftermarket flywheel is not balanced for your engine. Most racing engines are internally balanced. So their flywheel maybe be just for racing applications only.
 

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dynamic73 said:
The aftermarkey flywheel could very well be your problem. They are great for high reving racing. But they do loose bottom end torque from what I've heard. The vibration may be from the fly wheel also. Engines are usually externally balanced at the flywheel. So the new one might not have the same balance wieghts. Call the manufactor and ask how they are balanced. You might end up having to but the old one back on. If the aftermarket flywheel is not balanced for your engine. Most racing engines are internally balanced. So their flywheel maybe be just for racing applications only.
I agree its most likely your aftermarket flywheel that could be causing the problem.
 

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I don't think that your flywheel it causing power loss. A bit of vibration ...maybe. It should still rev faster and almost as importantly drop revs faster durring braking. It may cause some strange things to happen at lower revs but should clear up in the mid to high RPM range.

It sounds to me like a Cam timming issue or a streached timming belt. What did you set your cam and ignition timming at?

As for TPS ... I have no clue. I have never played with one and I hope I never have to.

BTW are you using to ECU from the junk yard? I'm not sure about engin, tranny, and ECU compatability thrue the years but I do know that not all are compatable with each others so ckeck 'em.

Sorry but that's about all I can say about that right now but I'll watch this thread if you get any more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It doesn't rev smooth at all, seems to take just as long as it did to climb in rpm as when I had the automatic hooked up to it.

I didn't install the timing belt, but I did check the dots on the cam gears when I set the engine to TDC, I believe I set the timing to 10 degrees based off of the plastic-etched timing marks.

The engine is an 84, the ECU is from an 87 Cressida, so I had to add the knock sensor to the block.

Thansk for you help guys, I appreciate it.
 

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Vibration:flywheel. if it's running stoich it's your flywheel or a mechanical problem.

lack of power: stretched timing belt or your low compression numbers. you said you put the crank to 0 and the notches lined up at the cams? test it again with the engine hot and try a lil oil in each cylinder. if that helps alot use restore(aluminum can) in your oil. i use that with the walmart brand synthetic blend and a tough guard filter and have 180psi on every cylinder. granted if it doesn't help your compression it's valves and only headwork can fix that.
 

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The flywheel won't cause a rough idle. I've got the same flywheel on my car and it idles smooth as factory. If the engine idles very rough and vibrates visibly you probably have a dead cylinder(s). Pulling plug wires with no change is a good hint at this. I would check to see if you have spark at each cylinder. Also check the plug wire order and check the wires to make sure they are in good shape. I'd check all the fuel injector wiring for open connections. I don't know if maybe you had the wrong plug order listed but injector 1, 3, 5 and 2, 4, 6 are all grouped together.
 

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but he said the engine is running stioch at idle... unless the "dead" cylinders are fireing late or something. one not getting fuel would make it show lean and one not fireing would show rich.

I pull the spark plug wires 1, 4 and 6 off the plugs with the engine running without any change in engine idle or vibration. Removing 2, 3 and 5 drop the idle. Any ideas why those plugs make no difference? I checked the actual plugs, and they don't look too bad.
the engine actually ran on 3 cylinders?

4. Could the TPS sensor make the engine vibrate and lack power? I tried to adjust it so that it would meet all variables in the TSRM, but it's slightly out of range of some of them.
i'd replace it. it couldn't be helping anything
 

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I think SilverMK2 might be on to somthing with the injector wiring. Maybe the wrong injectors are wired to the wrong cylinders hence the strange cylinder number groupings??? One of the groupings may not be firing aswell? Checking grounds are ALWAYS a good thing to do.

As far as running on three cylinders ... yes they will. My 82 made it through a safty inspection with a "rough idle" that turned out to be two huge cracks in the cylinder head in two different cylinders. Above 1500 RPM she still ran like a dream.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You guys are my freaking heros. I didnt know the injectors were ordered like that, I thought it was 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. Thanks so much for the help, I'll change that tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That did the trick, she revs like a dream. One of the injector's wires wasn't all the way in its connector too. Thanks to all who took the time to read my posts and help out, I probably wouldn't have figured it out without you.
 

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hey, didnt notice you were in edmonton, id have come over and helped if id known :p
 
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