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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to rebuild my 5M-GE properly and am looking for some advice on what parts to check/replace and what kind of machine work I should get done. I realize engines wear differently, but what would a decent job include. The engine will eventually get a CT-26, and I want my rebuild to last a long time. I won't be getting any performance head work either.
 

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part for sale

theres a guy in the parts for sale area that has some piston rings for sale on ebay. thats a good price to. 40 bucks, thats hard to beet. i looked they are more than 90 so get them....
:usa
 

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What year Supra do you have? What problems does the car currently have? When I rebuilt my 83', some of my cylinder walls were out of round so I had them all bored back to round and I replaced the pistons with larger higher compression ones. Have a quality machine shop check your engine over for items with excessive wear and replace anything that does. All your gaskets should be replaced and all of your bearings should be checked but they will most likely need to be replaced also. There is also a full top-end rebuild kit on ebay that is at a very good price http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6770&item=2407915054 You should also replace the timing belt since they stretch over time. Its a good idea to replace your clutch while the engine is out if you have a manual transmission. My machine work(valve job, cylinder bore, block and head cleaned) cost me a little over $200.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's an 87 Cressida. I lose alot of oil, but not through leaks. It recently started to idle rough, I've gone through everything and haven't been able to find the culprit, so I've decided to rebuild it and hope that I find or fix the problem. Can you just throw in new bearings, or do you have to measure where they fit?

I'm swapping in a W58 and a lsd 3.73 diff while everything's out. I'm going to buy a Mk 3 non-turbo clutch.
 

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sounds like valve seals. not too bad to relpace. you can do it with the head still on. Oil is getting in the combustion chamber when the valve opens, causing to run rough, and burn oil. That's where your oil is going. The 5MGE is notorious for it.
 

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I just got mine rebuilt and there is a laundry list of parts to get. I would a clutch as well as front and rear trans seals, rings, bearings, complete gasket set, water pump (hey it is cheap and you will have the motor out anyway), upper and lower hoses....Look into getting this stuff ahead of time bec it can be tricky to find. I good place to get some of this stuff is thepartsbin.com. Cheap and free shipping on stuff over fifty bucks.
 

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Before doing the engine rebuild..... check the compression of your engine to find out what is the problem.... do a dry and wet test.... and also a leakage test if might be the rings or check or exhaust rune the car and have it one idle for a while and have a buddy look at your tailpipe to see what color of smoke is coming out of your pipe.... if is starts smoking just idling then it might be the rings, but if not, from a stop run the car and have your buddy see if a blue smoke comes out of the tailpipe.... if it does it is the valve stem seals.... and if a steady of blue smoke is coming out of the pipe just cruising around then it is the rings.... there is a lot of possible scenario to your porblem.
 
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