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Discussion Starter #1
It Goes again, My damn 5M can't keep his idle, when I start the motor the rpm stay at 1000 rpm. It running a very little bit rough. Then it goes between 400-600 rpm and it's running really really rough, it's spouting and near dying, the rpm goes to 700 rpm like the ecu is trying to compensate but it goes back to 400 rpm and it die.

So here the story so far:
Body is finished, we remove the gaz tank to weld, then we put it back. I start the car, everything is alright, it idle fine. I did 35 km to get back at my house no prob, but the car wasn't pulling hard, told myself, it's okay the automatic shitbox is shot. In my garage, I shut down the car. I remove the whole air entry assembly to clean it then I reinstall it. I charge the battery then I start the car. Damnit, the idle is rough and it die. Fine, I told myself vaccuum leak, so I change all the old ripped rubbers for new one and check all vaccuum, nice no vaccuum leak. I start it back, still dying. Fine, I take a look at my spark plug, HUGE smell of gazoline and they're soaked in gaz, like the car is not totally burning his gaz. So here I am.

-6 months ago I changed the gaz filter
-Removed and reinstalled the gaz tank
-Did 35 km w/t problems.
-Engine started having idle trouble
-No vaccuum problems
-NGK iridium spark plug is soaked in gazoline
-Brand new MSD spark plug wires 8.5mm
-Timing belt is alright, no theets off
-Timing distributor is not set perfectly because the TPS is having trouble and I can't get the car to display my check engine when I jump the check engine connector.
-When I give throttle the car run fine
-Brand new 91 octane gaz
-intake gasket is fine

I thought of changing the gaz filter, when we removed the gaz tank, maybe some rust and dirt went in the gaz tank. Actually I'm really tired and can't get my mind clear on what to check.
 

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First off, what year is the Supra.

Second, what is wrong with the TPS, if the TPS is bad, the engine will not run right, kind of the reason why it is there in the first place. Also have no idea when the TPS has to do with adjusting the dizzy.

So I would spec out the TPS IAW the TSRM (available elec on here).

Also seems like you missed one important thing, if your plugs are soaked in gas, then you have a problem with spark, not fuel. So I would be betting that since you are trying to "backdoor" your engine, get the dizzy adjusted properly and your problem may very well go away.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Supra 85

As for the TPS, I've read that if the TPS is not working properly when you jump the check engine connector, the check engine is not blinking, so you can't set your timing distributor with a timing light. If I remember well tanya told so.

Facts are: The car was running right last week, the only thing that I did was to clean the air induction assembly and remove and re-install the gaz tank. Before that, even with the dizzy not set the car was running fine.
 

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Are you still using the OEM intake setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yep, the only difference is the K&N filter on the AFM

EDIT: OIl is good, flushed it and no sign of fuel or water, Kinda happy, a BHG would kill me.
 

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Fuel, Compression, Spark

Spark, check timing and get it running and pull one plug at a time to see if they each have a negative effect (they should, if you pull one and it does not change the sound of the motor, that's your culprit cylinder).

Compression, compression tester, and verify your timing marks line up (pull the upper timing cover, make sure the dots align with the notches).

Fuel, you can adjust how much fuel the car gets by opening and closing the flapper on the AFM by hand. Even AFM's that are totally fubar'd or cars with horribly low fuel pressure due to failing pumps I've been able to get idling smoothly by manipulating the AFM.

--BillyM
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll try, but I'll have someone to maintain the throttle otherwise the car will die on me... :sadbanana:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah right... I should stop trying to do some mechanics with 3 hours of sleep. :eekfacepalm:

There is knocking in the block at low rpm, kinda make me worry, I def think that there is something wrong with timing or spark, but what bothers me is that the car was running fine before I removed the air entry...

If I do a comp test when engine is cold I'll get wrong numbers I guess?
 

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Since you worked near the AFM just prior to this...

Suggestions:
Are both sides of the AFM connector clean?
AFM connector on snug/full contact?
Can you move the AFM's door freely, to open and spring back w/o any snags, obstructions, or resistance?
Any chance that something is obstructing the flow of air intake, just before the AFM?
Is the Coolant Temperature sensor (feeds AFM) giving correct resistance values (per TSRM)?
 
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