Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's time to replace my wife's cars valve stem seals (Not my wife's, although who knows?), the car blows blue after 10 minutes of idling.

It sounds like the best Valve Spring Compressor for this motor is made by ToyoTool and is called 'The ValveMaster'.
Funkycheese recommended this back in 2012 on this thread: Can anyone recomend a good valve spring compressor

The ToyoTool website: www.toyotool.com is still alive, but the links to the #VMT2AZ tool don't work for me. Is this specfic model the same one that works for the 5MGE? I assume that the 'more information' link would give specific models that this works on and the videos will show it in operation.
Has anyone done business with them?

Font Office supplies Chemical compound Writing implement Writing instrument accessory

Office supplies Font Cylinder Writing implement Metal

Cylinder Rim Nickel Aluminium Auto part


Cylinder Rim Auto part Metal Aluminium


Their ebay store lists 2 models,

Ebay Toyotool ValveMaster Valve Tools

This storefront lists 2:

ValveMaster VMT68 valve spring compressor 2JZGE 2JZGTE 7MGTE 1MZFE &many others
Valvemaster Valve Spring Compressor Tool Toyota 2AZFE, 2ZZFE,4AGE 20V

I'm an absolute neophyte to this kind of thing so I would really hate to order the wrong one. It sounds like the valve keeper diameter, the valve stem diameter, and a single-groove configuration are what is important.

Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

I have a spare head off it's motor, and a 6MGE whose head can come off. I wouldn't mind trying to do the set that is on the car now, so a compressor that can work on a head on or off a head the block sounds like the real ticket.

Dale
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,890 Posts
Did not know about the hammer technique for the keepers. I used the old technique of a spring compressor. The hammer version is much quicker!
As for the seals, I did not use any tool in particular. I think I just used a xxMM deep socket to pushed them in.
But a proper tool can only be better/easier!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,771 Posts
You probably want the large one same as 2JZ/7M etc. TBH I slightly modified the one I have (same larger one) and it has worked on lots of different Toyota engines including 2ZZ.

I only use the tool to remove / install the springs/top retainers/keepers. I use a set of seal pliers to remove seals and a small socket to install.

Also ensure you have the cyl you are working on at TDC and hooked up to compressed air through the plug hole.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Flyin' Hawaiian

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
LOL! This is by far, the two most-important things to do! When you forget these two things, you will regret ever touching the engine!!!
That sounds like the voice of experience!

Dale
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flyin' Hawaiian

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Did not know about the hammer technique for the keepers. I used the old technique of a spring compressor. The hammer version is much quicker!
As for the seals, I did not use any tool in particular. I think I just used a xxMM deep socket to pushed them in.
But a proper tool can only be better/easier!
When I did my 5mge refresh like 6 months ago, I tried a spring compressor and the keepers would stay stuck in the retainer. I ended up actually using a socket on an extension with a hammer to basically dead blow the retainer on its' spring. About half of all the keepers just fell off the valve shaft and stayed in the socket. The others I used the spring compressor and a little magnet grabber without issue after the shaft was free.

Obviously lots of other considerations and precautions are necessary to do the whole job without screwing yourself and having to remove the head, but I hope you're aware of the dangers if this deep already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Nothin' like doing this and having the air line pop off right when you've got the keepers removed and sliding a seal on!
I've removed exhaust/intake to do the job (on other engines) with extra security; I epoxy dipped some cheap small long-reach vice grips that can get into most ports and grab the valve shaft. When I did the 5m I just did the "rope trick" and literally shoved nylon rope in the spark plug hole to fill the chamber. Worked perfect!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,771 Posts
If the cyl is at TDC then even if the valve drops it won't go very far down you can just grab the stem by hand and pull it back up to seal. You can set 1-6 to TDC and do them, then 1/3 crank rotation for 2-5 and then 1/3 more for 3-4. I also put the car in gear with the E brake on to keep the air pressure from turning the crank if I don't get it exactly at TDC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,045 Posts
I do not trust compressed air. Rope or wire in the plug hole then turn the engine till it locks the valves closed.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,771 Posts
If the piston is at the top the valves won't drop in far if you lose air pressure or the seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, as an official newbie to engine work, when you reassemble the camshaft housings onto the head, do you use cam assembly lube on the camshafts? The TSRM doesn't indicate this, and I assume if you are not replacing the cams or the rockers at the same time, the wear patterns have been established.

However, do you just put some on everything before you put on the cam covers, or do you use some break in lube?

Any sage advice for a nervous Nelly?

Dale
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,771 Posts
Not really needed on reassembly of an engine especially if the cams are still oily. You could run the engine on the starter without the plugs in and the EFI fuses pulled for 20 seconds or so to get oil flowing everywhere.
 
  • Like
Reactions: supraz

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,045 Posts
I put a dab of grease or thick assembly lube on the top of the valve stem and lash adjuster to help hold the rockers in place when dropping the cams back on. I usually change the oil when I am digging in this far, so after the cams are on, before putting the covers on the towers, I make sure the old oil is drained, filter changed, and then I pour the new oil over the valve train just because.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Matches and supraz

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,045 Posts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Very interesting post back from time.
I'm glad you pointed it out. I have never read this before.

Dale
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
I used nylon rope too. Easy.

I have one of these Toyotools for my 7M-GTE. Worked great so far as I remember. Been a few years since I did the job. 7M has 6mm valve stem seals like the 5M does, not sure if they are actually the same part but same size anyway. I'm guessing the tool will work fine.

If you want, I can just mail you the tool so you can use it. Just mail it back when you're done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I used nylon rope too. Easy.

I have one of these Toyotools for my 7M-GTE. Worked great so far as I remember. Been a few years since I did the job. 7M has 6mm valve stem seals like the 5M does, not sure if they are actually the same part but same size anyway. I'm guessing the tool will work fine.

If you want, I can just mail you the tool so you can use it. Just mail it back when you're done.
Thank you very much for the offer.

I will say no because, being an old man, these projects progress at a pace similar to glaciers moving.... with or without global warming.
I've got 3 5MGEs, a 6MGE, and my grandson has a 5MGE powered Cressida. I'm sure that they will all need valve seals eventually. I may as well bite the bullet and get one now. I' sure that they will only go up in price!

Again, I appreciate your generosity,

Dale
 
  • Like
Reactions: Matches
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top