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Discussion Starter #1
I just started this swap. the engine is a late model cressida 5mge. stock ct26, 1984 wiring harness, stock ecu, FMU. Not running yet, just installed it today after pulling the original 22r/4 speed combo. Truck is an all original 1988 truck with 315,000 miles!!!! drove it to work today. started the swap after work. I have a microsquirt an a 52 pin header to put in when i have time to wire it up after the swap is running with stock stuff, and when i have time. Please enjoy.

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That looks like it fits pretty well in there, nicely done.
Very very tight fit. Had to take off the crankshaft pulley, Dent the brake booster and gonna have to deal with steering clearance. Few little things to work out, but it fits and it will run soon.
Everything's coming up Millhouse
 

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If I may ask where did you get the 52 pin header?
DIY Autotune used to carry one, looks like they don't anymore though...

Looks like this RX-7 vendor is still carrying the torch though and has the connector itself: 1986-1988 RX-7 ECU Connector 52 Pin
As well as an adapter to MS2 though it appears mostly FC specific: RX-7 86-88 (S4) Factory Harness to Megasquirt MS2 Adapter - $125.00 : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More

It might be worth messaging a seller or two on aliexpress and see if they have any leads. It is really tough to find things on there, but they sell tons of connectors: US $1.98 8% OFF|1Kit 1J0972977C 1719057 1 Automotive Connector ECU terminal for Instrument Dashboard Plug Connector Audi VW Seat Skoda TYCO AMP|terminal connectors automotive|terminal connectorterminal plug - AliExpress
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I may ask where did you get the 52 pin header?
Theres a few different sites that have them. I got mine from tuningtechnology.net
Make sure to call first because they are one of many small businesses affected by covid right now. Real nice guy, got it to me from Florida, all the way across the US, in just a couple days. It was $38 including shipping.
 

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Cool! I'm actually working on my 03 Tacoma 2wd today, but the ol 2rz will do for my uses.

5m's are such great motors, even without the turbo they'd be great in a little 2wd pickup.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This weekends progress.
I got the steering link bent around the oil pan. Removed many unneeded items from the engine bay. Rerouted the fuel lines, these will be changed again due to the fuel pump being too close to the exhaust. They are set up to get it running right now. Got the intercooler and the intake piping set up to get running. These will get replaced with better pipes after its running. Intercooler is from a saab and the battery tray has been cut out for airflow and to get rid of the rust.
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Well i sorted out some wiring today, nothing too exciting. Had to work on the house, installed a tub. I figured I'd post some before pics and a little background. The truck cost $300 bucks, it was rebuilt 4 years prior and they weren't smart enough to get it running after rebuild. I spent 1 hour on it and got it running. The 22r got me 27mpg going 40 miles a day commuting with a 4 speed. I got the 5mge and w58 for free from a buddy. I spent a few dollars to add the turbo and complete the harness and odds and ends.
 

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I had Friday off for the 4th and decided to practice my freedom by getting drunk, high, and working on my Japanese vehicle, just like our forefathers intended. Got it running by about 8pm and it was missing on one cylinder so I called it a night. Saturday morning i started chasing the missfire, it was #6 and after beating my head all day it turned out to be a pin had backed out of the injector connector on that cylinder. After that was figured out, i spent the rest of saturday doing the exhaust and cleaning up the wiring, installing gauges, etc. Same thing on sunday. Today i drove to work and around for work. put 70 miles on it so far and have been dialing in the RRFPR and watching my AFRs closely. All in all its been going real good for getting it done in one week. Im using the stock truck radiator, no fans yet. temp goes to 3/4 idling and immediately drops to 1/4-1/2 as soon as i move down the road. Fans will be on soon.
I do have a couple little problems i need help with. First my iscv isnt operating correctly. It gets 12volts, it makes noise when i shut if off, but it wont regulate the idle. i have tried it getting air from before the throttle body, and between the AFM and turbo. nothing makes it work right so right now its bypassed and the screw is set 1 turn out. What do i do guys? I am also running without a circuit opening relay because my truck didnt have one. so my afm opens and turns on my fuel pump. It takes a little longer to start because of this. Should i get a CO relay and wire it in? I discovered many oil leaks after the first time boosting hahahaha, are there any upgrade seals i can buy? like the cam seals, and related stuff? I have a bosch 044 on here at it is loud as hell, anyone else experience this? and yes its a genuine, i got sent a knockoff first and returned it, then ordered from a reliable source.
I will be wiring up my microsquirt ASAP so hopefully ill solve a couple issues with that.
enjoy the pics.
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For the oil leaks, run a catch can that ventilates to atmosphere or feeds back into the intake before the turbo. Right now the compressed air in your intake manifold is pressurizing your crankcase. Its the black hose that goes into the valve cover by the TB.

You have the ISCV plumed right in the pics above. I'm not sure why it would be misbehaving. Maybe pop it out and bench test it, look for obstructions etc.

I would really encourage your to redo your fuel setup their, and replumb your truck's fuel lines so they go up and over the tranny tunnel to the intake side of the motor. There's like 4+ different connections in that pic I can see that would result in an engine fire due to spraying the exhaust if any of them started leaking or a hose burst.I have several friends who have had their cars burn to the ground from making similar mistakes, its really easy to do.
 

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For the ISCV, make sure your TPS is adjusted properly and you're getting signal (or ground) on the IDL pin. If the ECU never things you're at idle, it'll affect the ISCV for sure.

I agree with Fiend above about that crankcase venting situation and fuel setup! ...plenty of room under the floor for the pump and filter, then bring it up the driver's side for safety-sake.

Cool swap and looking forward to seeing what comes of it. Cheers!

--billyM
 

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I had Friday off for the 4th and decided to practice my freedom by getting drunk, high, and working on my Japanese vehicle, just like our forefathers intended.
God Bless America!

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I was thinking that there were two manly poses here when I realized there are three. Your dog's mooning us.

You just made my day. I just about peed myself!

Happy 4th of July from north of the border.

Supraz
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys, thanks for all the support and advice. After driving it a couple hundred miles in the last couple days its getting parked until I can get the fuel lines sorted out and the other little things like iscv, tps, venting, etc. I did get my rrfpr dialed in a bit, also i checked my timing and it was at 15 degrees!!!! luckily i only had one day in at the setting and I dialed it back to 7 degrees. the engine was second hand and had been used in a supra for drifting so I should've check that first thing. I think maybe the AFM as been adjusted too because it had clear silicone on the lid, but it doesnt seem to be running rich by any means, maybe its adjusted just enough to be good for the turbo. I will try to get a video of the gauges so you guys can tell me how I'm doing on my AFRs. I also hooked the analog output from my innovate AFR gauge to the 5m ecu and that made things a bit better too. I certainly am going to get the microsquirt going asap. I can already see, and I'm experiencing, the shortcomings of the stock ecu/rrfpr setup. All in all its real fun and way faster than the stock 22r that was in the truck, hahahaha.

I have the fuel lines ordered. About the catch can, do I need the can or can I just run the vent over to the intake? Maybe without the can I'll get excessive oil consumption? Its better knowing its going back into the engine rather than all over the outside/ground/chassis...

About the microsquirt setup, does anyone know about putting the later TPS on the early throttle body? they certainly are different. I can bespoke it on there if needed, I'm just cheap and would like to not have to spend the money for more parts, i.e. I'd like to not have to ask the wife if I can spend more money on this, hahaha. Also, I have a set of 7mgte injectors, and a 60 trim ct26, does this sound like a good setup with the microsquirt? I'll be using the flyjum guide with a few adjustments for my setup.

Supraz, the models are for hire if you have any need for them. They work for the buzz. But, they only do shirtless or less, no exceptions.
 

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The AFM mods are next to worthless from my experience. In theory you can tighten up the spring in them to lean out motors with bolt on mods to keep the A/F ratios a little better, but you are essentially making the flapper door a bigger restriction that way. My NA 6m revved mine so hard I could hear the flapper slam full open when I pinned it, with the spring tightened up a few clicks too. I think people who have gotten some gains from them have cranked them way up, but again it just becomes an even bigger restriction. But most people read the guide online, cut their box open, adjust, drive it and go "eh, seems better", all without ever running a wideband and datalogger to verify. Looking at guages while driving has very limited use for tuning from my experience, you need to be able to datalog A/F vs RPM, plus some other stuff is useful too.

About the catch can, I wouid run one, then vent out of it. I have a breather hose running out of mine going down to under the car. I get a bit of haze coming out of it sometimes, but it doesn't seem to drip fluid. I've seen lots of people do it, but I personally wouldn't vent inside the engine bay. I just made one out of a water bottle, but the feed line from the valve cover on one side about an inch down from the top, and the breather nozzel at the very top. In my NA 6m I get very little fluid in the bottle, I barely ever drain it. But your milage will vary depending on motor health, ring sealing and boost. You can make a catch can out of just about anything. A catch can won't effect oil consumption, but having a pressurized engine block from boosted intake air certainly will.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Alright fellas, i am up and running again!!! I got some new pics and I have sorted some things out.
1st. Fuel lines/pump- pump is on frame by tank, 6an fittings and line everywhere, new out of tank low pressure filter, new high pressure filter, stock fpr totally gone, rrfpr doing both duties now, fuel pressure dampener deleted. Theres is no longer anything near the exhaust!!! Also, in ditching the stock fpr i have stablized afr's, and have lots more control over afr's. The rrfpr is a lot more useful now.
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2nd. Ensured tps was adjusted properly. Chased iscv issues with no luck. Getting power, makes noise, no idle control still. I need to remove it completely and clean it maybe? I have been running with the line plugged and the idle throttle screw deal one tun out. Still want this fixed, but its running great anyways.
3rd. I removed the vent hose from valve cover to throttle body and plugged the throttle body side. Valve cover side is venting to atmosphere right now and this has all but fixed my oil leaks. Still a little leaking but no more deluge evertime i hit the boost, and no more oil smoking exhaust when i hit it either. I'm working on a ketchican. Will have it soon.

Some questions have come up too.
Whats the stock final drive ratio in supras? My truck has 3.07 gears open diff 8" toyota because the truck was a stock 4 speed. Any suggestions on ratios to go with? I will look for stock units hanging around town, but i will purchase them if i need to. These gears are killing my bottom end, it does have lots of power above 100mph still though, hahaha.
How noisy is the valvetrain on these? my top end talks a bit, not much, but more than i would think a hydraulic tappet engine would.
One of my oil leaks was putting oil in the valley on the head bolt recesses. What leak causes this? It was hard to identify when i was pissing oil everywhere from the boost, now theres oil there and it doesnt seem to be accumulating anymore.
Any picture requests? Or questions for me? This swap went real smooth with all the info on this site and im super stoked to be a part of it. I will contribute however I can.
Anyone going to Portland in 2 weeks? I was thinking of trailering this badboy down there and showing off a bit. Maybe try to hit the dyno...
 

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Stock mk2 Supra 5spd is a 4.3 rear, with w58, 25.6 inch diameter tires as I recall. Stock mk3 Supra Turbo is 3.9 or 3.73 depending on year, r154 of course, and tires 26inch something diameter.

Are you sure your rear is an 8? My 03 Tacoma has the same 7.5R&P the mk2 does, which is great because I have a couple LSDs laying around. If you do have an 8, you should be able to run the mk3 Supra LSD, which is a really strong unit and not too hard to find. Swapping gear sets is always challenging in diffs btw.

That's awesome you fixed your fuel setup, thats much better and safer for sure.

Oil leaks will appear everywhere if your crankcase is pressurized, I wouldn't worry about the ones you had, just the ones you have. But the leak could easily have come from the valve covers or cam shaft housings where they connect to the head. There is a metal gasket in there that is notorious for leaking after people take them apart, if they havn't cleaned up their surfaces just right or used a new gasket. Most of us add a little spray to those gaskets for extra insurance.

Yeah just take that ISCV out and check out its plunger and what the inside of the hole looks like. Could just be the inside is carboned up so bad the plunger was seized. Thats uncommon, but who knows. Bench test it and you will know if the problem is in the mounting, the valve itself or the wiring.
 
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