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Ok, so I am getting the engine back from the shop monday. That means it is getting time to put this thing together. I have a few questions and was hoping for some help...again.

I have a cartech RRFPR. It obviously mounts on the incoming gas line. Do I need to remove the FPR that is on the fuel rail? What vacume line do I tap into? What should I set the base pressure at?

I am going to use a stock 7m intercooler. Can the stock 7m intake piping be made to fit this?

How have people mounted the stock 7m intercooler in the MKII?

I am using ARP head studs for a 7mgte and a 2.0mm MHG. Should I use the factory tourqe specs?

Should I go couter-clockwise a couple teeth on the AFM? I will be going to a dyno but I think it will be wise to break the engine in a little before I do that and dont want to run lean.

Should I set my timming at 12 (running 92 octane)?

What do I need to do to keep my intake from getting oil/carbon deposits?

Well, that is all I can think of right now. I am sure more will pop into my head later.

Thanx
Mark
 

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CRF_Rider said:
Ok, so I am getting the engine back from the shop monday. That means it is getting time to put this thing together. I have a few questions and was hoping for some help...again.

I have a cartech RRFPR. It obviously mounts on the incoming gas line. Do I need to remove the FPR that is on the fuel rail? What vacume line do I tap into? What should I set the base pressure at?

I am going to use a stock 7m intercooler. Can the stock 7m intake piping be made to fit this?

How have people mounted the stock 7m intercooler in the MKII?

I am using ARP head studs for a 7mgte and a 2.0mm MHG. Should I use the factory tourqe specs?

Should I go couter-clockwise a couple teeth on the AFM? I will be going to a dyno but I think it will be wise to break the engine in a little before I do that and dont want to run lean.

Should I set my timming at 12 (running 92 octane)?

What do I need to do to keep my intake from getting oil/carbon deposits?

Well, that is all I can think of right now. I am sure more will pop into my head later.

Thanx
Mark
I'll address what I know...

Until you dyno it, I would leave the timing dead stock at 10 degrees.

The stock 7M piping will work, but you need to add some more piping to it to make it fit all the way.

To mount the 7M intercooler, I'm making up a set of brackets from some aluminum that use the stock mounts on the I/C and some bolts that are located near where I am mounting it.... tho I have heard of a certain person who once hung theirs with zipties and had it stay for a year..LOL


Do not mess with the AFM. Let the RRFPR handle your enrichment. until ya get that beast on the dyno, just make sure you have the rrfpr to where you are definately running rich, and you'll be fine.

Oil deposits in the intake piping is normal on turbo motors. If your that concerned, just take the pipes off and clean them every so often...

I don't think the Cartech replaces the stock FRP. I would check their website and find out for certain tho.
 

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The RRFPR does not mount on the incoming gas line. Under boost, the RRFPR acts as a "restriction" in the fuel return line. Stand on the driver's side of the car, and look down under the intake plenum. There will be a metal "Y" coming off of the block. You'll see a 5/16hs" black EFI hose running from the Y to a hard line on the driver's side fuel rail. This is the fuel return line. Remove the hose, and install the regulator "in line". You can mount it on the firewall, or down low. Remember to run the vacuum source to a spot on the intake plenum downstream of the throttle body. Leave the stock fuel rail in place. Try a base pressure of 62. For a pic, and a bit of text mirroring what I just typed, go here: http://geocities.com/aarongarney/5mgtefuel.html I used the Mk3 intercooler in my car. It doesn't fit the best, but it does work. I had zip ties! Torqe the ARP head studs to 77-80 ft/lbs. Remember to use the lube on the base of the nuts (hehehehhe). Leave your air flow meter alone. Good luck.
-Aaron
 

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Remember to use the lube on the base of the nuts (hehehehhe



We aren't talking about your G/F in here Aaron :D
 

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Shawn: "We aren't talking about your G/F in here Aaron:

I know Shawn (I think I had an Aunt who spelled it S-H-A-W-N). Thats why I didn't bring your name into it. Boost on!
-Aaron
CEO
Rabid Transit Industries (hahahah)
 

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Aaron S. Garney said:
Shawn: "We aren't talking about your G/F in here Aaron:

I know Shawn (I think I had an Aunt who spelled it S-H-A-W-N). Thats why I didn't bring your name into it. Boost on!
-Aaron
CEO
Rabid Transit Industries (hahahah)
At least in person,peolpe don't mistake me for a BITCH at first sight :!: :twisted: :lol:
 

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There are two coolant lines going to the throttle body (inlet/outlet). Remove the line that goes to the inlet (toward front of car), and run that to the turbo. Run the return line from the turbo, and connect it to the line that you've removed from the throttle body coolant outlet. You don't need hot water going to the throttle body anyhoooooooo. If you're sly, you can route all of the coolant lines under the intake plenum/manifold, so it looks clean. Put some rubber caps over the TB's coolant inlet/outlet to make things look a bit cleaner. Catch you later.
-Aaron
(offers CT26 turbo coolant line kits with aluminum flanges, brass fittings, coolant lines, and stainless steel clamps).
 

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Torque spec per ARP is 80 ft/lbs with the supplied lube. Something around 120 ft/lbs with oil. Instructions should be in the box. And dont bottom out the studs in the block go all the way down with them and then bring them back up a few turns. You will want to do this anyway otherwise there will be not enough of the stud sticking out of the head. There are nice allen heads cut in the top of each stud that makes them really easy to put in, I didnt notice that till I went to put them in and it made the install super easy. Also the head will be a tight fit over the studs, I reccomend having a rubber mallet handy as it does not just drop over the studs like butter you kinda have to tap on it on each end and work it down over the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanx Aaron. I'll do that.

I had to have the Head bolt seats milled down about 1/2" to get the ARP studs to work. I am using a 2.0mm gasket and that made things worse. Now I can bottom out the studs (finger tight) and I should be fine.

Thanx
 

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CRF_Rider said:
Ok, I am going to need a fuel pressure gauge inline to set the FPR. Can anyone tell me what they have used? What gauge and where do I tap into the fuel line?

Thanx
I used an Equus oil pressure gauge - works fine. Find a tutorial at www.supras.nl under Maintenance (I think).

I installed a "double" banjo nut at the side of the stock FPR and tapped the fuel pressure line in there. Also works fine. That way, I have the "exact" fuel pressure - controlled by both the FPR and RRFPR.

Mail me if you need pictures of my setup.
[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great site! That is exactly what I needed. I am going to call the local toyota dealer and see if they can look up thoes part numbers.

Thanx!

EDIT: Just called the toyota dealer and they dont have a listing for part number 09268-41190 (banjo bolt) or 90405-06167 (adaptor). The part number for the sigle port banjo (90401-12097) that comes on the car is a good US part number.

Did you happen to find out the US part numbers?
 
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