I keep thinking about the way Toyota used woodruff keys on the crank for the timing belt drive sprocket and the crank pulley/balancer. In some ways that seems rather dumb since the hubs on both the T-belt drive sprocket and the crank pulley have a full length keyway cut from end to end. Why not have both keyways on the crank re-cut for two full length square keys? That way both keyways would benefit from the additional keying and not have to rely on the short woodruff keys that contact the hubs mostly in the center area only. Any thoughts on this?
6M from scratch
I am building a 6M from scratch parts for my friends 84 MK2
here is the details... pics are following soon
the block crank and rods are from a 7MGTE while utilizing a 8.8:1 stock cast 5M pistons 0.020 over.... the short block is all assembled while using Clevite 77 main/rod bearings... the aluminum timing cover is from a 5M and the cover hole for the crank snout needed to be machined bigger to fit the larger 7M crank snout. basically this is a 6M engine but by using a 7MGTE block... a oil squirter would be in use to cool the piston bottms for added performance.
any sugggestions and comments are welcome.
the engine is not yet done due to the 5M head is still on the stock 5M we are using right now...
pictures is on the process for poeple who wants to make a hybrid 6M from cratch parts they have...
I would like to thank Mike Lewitz for inspiring this project... for he made me think and ponder for the effoert he did to make bolt up a 7MGTE bottom end and 5M valveterrain
here is the details... pics are following soon
the block crank and rods are from a 7MGTE while utilizing a 8.8:1 stock cast 5M pistons 0.020 over.... the short block is all assembled while using Clevite 77 main/rod bearings... the aluminum timing cover is from a 5M and the cover hole for the crank snout needed to be machined bigger to fit the larger 7M crank snout. basically this is a 6M engine but by using a 7MGTE block... a oil squirter would be in use to cool the piston bottms for added performance.
any sugggestions and comments are welcome.
the engine is not yet done due to the 5M head is still on the stock 5M we are using right now...
pictures is on the process for poeple who wants to make a hybrid 6M from cratch parts they have...
I would like to thank Mike Lewitz for inspiring this project... for he made me think and ponder for the effoert he did to make bolt up a 7MGTE bottom end and 5M valveterrain
1 - 4 of 29 Posts
The 7M block uses a different lower timing belt case than the 5M and 6M. This is why the water pump sits lower on the 7M conversions. The easy fix would be to swap the 7M case for the 5M/6M case to avoid having to modify the fan shroud, but unfortunately the front area of the 7M block is different from the 5M and 6M block.
The 7M water pump is slightly different from the 5M/6M pump as well. The 7M water pump has a different shaped mounting surface with 10 bolts as opposed to 9 bolts for the 5M/6M pump.
The 7M water pump is slightly different from the 5M/6M pump as well. The 7M water pump has a different shaped mounting surface with 10 bolts as opposed to 9 bolts for the 5M/6M pump.
Hmmm...I didn't realize that the front timing case area on the 6M block was any different than the 5M block.
I've heard that a dual fan setup from a DSM car (Eclipse, Eagle, Talon) will bolt up to the MKII radiator. Is this true?
I've heard that a dual fan setup from a DSM car (Eclipse, Eagle, Talon) will bolt up to the MKII radiator. Is this true?
Ahh, okay! Now I get the picture. 8) But will the egged out 5M lower case bolt up to the 7M block???
1 - 4 of 29 Posts
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