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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
SupraFiend said:
I think he was impling that the keyway is still there on the pulley after the machining, its just alot less deep and the key needs to be machined to fit in the smaller space. So does the machined crank pulley still look safe? And is there enough room to cut the key way deeper still? The one thing that worries me about machining the key down is weakening its grip on the crank. I know enough people that have had keys destroy themselves and\or the pulley and crank with it with stock specs. Most of those were due to loose crank pulley mind you but its still something to worry about. I think I may have to dig up a 6m crankpulley part number and see if a local dealer can order me one.
Sorry if I mislead you to my wording... Suprafiend is right that is what we are trying to do the pulley but I have talked to another machinist we know wnd told us that he can machine another 5M pulley for us and also the keyway would be machined to make it all fit... this way we would be still be utilizing the strenght of the woodruff key and not machining it.... This is still a test engine... we still find problems but we are doing our best to find the right answer to this engine swap.

JAY
 

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I keep thinking about the way Toyota used woodruff keys on the crank for the timing belt drive sprocket and the crank pulley/balancer. In some ways that seems rather dumb since the hubs on both the T-belt drive sprocket and the crank pulley have a full length keyway cut from end to end. Why not have both keyways on the crank re-cut for two full length square keys? That way both keyways would benefit from the additional keying and not have to rely on the short woodruff keys that contact the hubs mostly in the center area only. Any thoughts on this?
 

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The 7M block uses a different lower timing belt case than the 5M and 6M. This is why the water pump sits lower on the 7M conversions. The easy fix would be to swap the 7M case for the 5M/6M case to avoid having to modify the fan shroud, but unfortunately the front area of the 7M block is different from the 5M and 6M block.
The 7M water pump is slightly different from the 5M/6M pump as well. The 7M water pump has a different shaped mounting surface with 10 bolts as opposed to 9 bolts for the 5M/6M pump.
 

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The easy fix would be to swap the 7M case for the 5M/6M case to avoid having to modify the fan shroud, but unfortunately the front area of the 7M block is different from the 5M and 6M block.


you can use both 7m and 5/6m case however you will require a little modification if you use 5m case..I chose to use 5m case because I have everything I need and dont have to buy 7m pump...as far as fan shroud, I went to electric fan and made me a custom aluminum shroud where i bolted the electric fan...flex-a-lite look a like...lol...I'll get 3000ccmk2 to take a picture of the shroud that I made...


nelson
 

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Hmmm...I didn't realize that the front timing case area on the 6M block was any different than the 5M block.

I've heard that a dual fan setup from a DSM car (Eclipse, Eagle, Talon) will bolt up to the MKII radiator. Is this true?
 

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i dont know about bolt up but ive seen the setup on a mkiii which has the same width core aparently. shouldnt be hard to mount the fans. i think i might try that soon.
william
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Dave A. said:
Hmmm...I didn't realize that the front timing case area on the 6M block was any different than the 5M block.

I've heard that a dual fan setup from a DSM car (Eclipse, Eagle, Talon) will bolt up to the MKII radiator. Is this true?
Dave A.

the front timing case of the 6M is different due to the bigger shaft shout of the 6M crank and the 5M crank shft snout is smaler in diameter and we have to dremel the 5m case to make it work properly
 
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