6M swap

You should definitely do some exhaust work assuming you have not already. I would go 2.25" to take advantage of the header and P&P work. I know you are in a smog area, but you could get a test pipe and replace the cat when inspection time comes around.

hmm, i thought the 6M was missing some emissions components, like EGR I believe? Im not sure but won't this effect emissions??

Yes, the 6M doesn't have an EGR valve and the feds in CA aren't going to like that. You will need to use the intake plenum and EGR apparatus off of your 5M in order to be compliant with CA emissions regulations.

Oh, my bad. I forgot to say that I have hi flow 2.5 inch from the hi flow cat all the way to the tip. I'm also still driving around in my 5M but the smog will all go to the 6M when I switch. Also, would it be do-able to install a Chimp intake everyday driving but replace with stock intake & afm during emisions test or would that require more work than it's worth? Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. I'll keep you posted on progress. :violin:

**lame_screename** said:

Oh, my bad. I forgot to say that I have hi flow 2.5 inch from the hi flow cat all the way to the tip. I'm also still driving around in my 5M but the smog will all go to the 6M when I switch. Also, would it be do-able to install a Chimp intake everyday driving but replace with stock intake & afm during emisions test or would that require more work than it's worth? Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. I'll keep you posted on progress. :violin:

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I managed to get passed with my Toysport intake and DT headers on a 6MGE. If you get sent to a Test only center then they are gonna ask you to swap over to the Stock intake system. It all depends on how anal the tech is when you get it smogged

i'm going the all motor 6m route as well. don't have the funds just now though.

your setup sounds like what i want to end up with on my '82 p type. i have suspension techniques sway bars and a jacobs ignition ('cause that's what i already have!). i also plan to send my doug thorley header to jet hot for ceramic coating. the url for jet hot is: http://www.jet-hot.com/index.html

you submit a form online and they will send you a price on the service you select.

good luck with the setup, i'd like to hear how you made out. also, where did you get your clean 6m? i'm here in cali too!

good luck with the setup, i'd like to hear how you made out. also, where did you get your clean 6m? i'm here in cali too!

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Central coast used japanese motors. It's in Los Osos, CA about 15 min from Cal Poly. The guy helping me do the swap hooked it up with NO TAX. Saved 53 bucks. (6M runs 750 + tax) I'm gonna take the head off monday and take some pics I can send you.

Hey. That's where I got my 6m installed! lol. I didn't have much of any car knowledge back then so I had them install it.
I'm down here in Lompoc though.

I've been thinking of calling them and seeing if I can take an old 6m plenum and intake stuff off thier hands if they ever do another swap, or maybe I'll take it off your hands if you aren't going to use it... . Not sure how the 6m's come though. I'm moving out of state soon and I was thinking of getting one somewhere to put on when I move. Not sure I could find one anywhere else but there though. Since other states don't have these laws I could install it back on. If I had known more about supra's and known I may have moved back then I'd have asked to keep the 6m stuff.

**lame_screename** said:

good luck with the setup, i'd like to hear how you made out. also, where did you get your clean 6m? i'm here in cali too!

Click to expand...

Central coast used japanese motors. It's in Los Osos, CA about 15 min from Cal Poly. The guy helping me do the swap hooked it up with NO TAX. Saved 53 bucks. (6M runs 750 + tax) I'm gonna take the head off monday and take some pics I can send you.

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sounds great :!:

i'll probably have to find my 6m closer to so cal - slo town is 250 miles from me.

btw i went to the sister school in pomona.

Well, I took the head off yesterday. The bolts smelled like they had been hot at one point. Had to bust out the breaker bar on two of them. A couple of the cylinder walls had some shiny spots, but the hatching is still visible on the others. There were no flat spots on the cam either. I'm thinking domed pistons to up the compression. (Not enough valve clearance for flatop right?) If not, I'll at least put in new rings. The head looked good but there was a deposit that was probably from radiator patcher. Based on the heated condition of the bolts and the deposit, I think the engine might have overheated at one point. If other symptoms confirm this suspicion, I'll do a magnaflux to check for cracks. The head went to Power Performance so I'll hear back from them wednesday about its condition. I have pics but no website. Where would be a good & free place to post them? All suggestions welcome, thanks.

I've put a 6m in my baby.. In regards to the 6m computer. you don't really need it. It'll cost just as much or more for the computer then the engine did.

I richened up the fuel mixture buy placing a 1000 ohm resister in line with the cold temp sensor. This fooled the computer into thinkng the car was running cooler than it was and the 5m computer compensated by increasing the fuel mixture I think it costed me $2.00.

If you want you can get an adjustable resistor and play with the resistance until you achieve an optimum performance of what you want. It may even help you with emmissions.

I love my 6m... :humpleg:

Right on lil'devil.
My race car (with a modded 5M) has a 0-2000 ohm potentiometer (variable resistor) in that circuit, placed over near where the light dimmer is. I turn the dial clockwise a bit to richen the mixture. Turn it all the way back counter clockwise to go back to stock. It seems to help gain power, as I dropped off about 2 tenths of a second at the dragstrip by using it to richen the mixture a bit once I got into second gear. If I richened it up in first gear it bogged a bit. Turning it all the way up to 2000 ohms was so rich that it even bogged on the highway in 5th gear. You'll need to play with the settings to see what works best for you.

The 6mg running with a 5mg ecu already runs richer than a "stock"
6mg above 3500 RPM. If you go to Helene and Matti's page here
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/FuelConsumption.html and compare BSFC numbers (grams of fuel per HP-Hr) for the 5 and 6mge engines you will see that the 5mge numbers are higher which means that the 5mge is set to run richer than the 6mge. Since the ecu doesn't know that you have a 6mge block installed the 6mge runs richer than
toy intended it to.

StanS

Thanks for the feedback on the ecu. I'll stick with the 5m ecu fo sho. I also might try that 0-2k ohm resistor idea if I'm having lean problems. Has anyone tried the toysport domed top pistons? :?: So far, that's all I've seen available. I'm thinking of ordering a set tuesday. If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, please let me know. :twak: Thanks.

There's a lot of power to be gained from a cold/ramair intake. See my
Ramair folder on the Egroups file page. If you do that in conjunction
with your DT header then you better get a duty cycle meter on your
injectors cause you'll be somewhere near max capability of the stock
injectors and you may be able to run lean and burn exhaust valve.

Also, electric fan seems to be a good way to pick up some more rwhp.

StanS

For an inexpensive piston solution, go with a set of the domed piston found in the '84-86 5mge. That should raise your compression to something like 9.5:1.

Does anyone know where I can get bigger valves for the 6M? How about a piston ring & engine gasket set? (I already checked import performance parts) I think that I'm only going to go with bigger valves and a port&polish and crank balance job. Toysport said shaving the head is bad becasuse it's too thin already. :naughty: They also said I probably would not pass smog with domed pistons.

6M is in!! :bling: Ended up just replacing rod bearings & rings (no new pistons) and cleaning honing etc... Runs great except oil pump needs to be replaced. Shouldn't have risked reusing the old one. at: (makes >10psi at warmed up idle) I have to hold the e-brake and rev above 1k to maintain 15-20psi at lights. Anyway, thanks to all for the great advice! :3gears: Time to go burn some ricers!!

how do u get an oil pressure reading?