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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Word. I'm in the process of doing a 6M swap/upgrade in my 84 P-type. Here's what I've come up with so far mod-wise:


6M(duh)
Doug Thorley header (where (in CA) can I get ceramic or jet coat?)
Chimp'n K&N filter
Autometer oil/water gauge (10-15HP gain) ha ha
NGK V-power plugs
Crane HI-6 w/PS91 coil or MSD 6AL w/blaster coil
head work: lil' shaving, prt&polish + 3 angle job
flat top pistons (if not already)
ACT 277ft/lb clutch
Jim King short shifter (if group buy happens)
Addco sway bars
Tokico shocks
6M ecu?

I'm going the raised compression, all-motor route. I hope to pull 180-190 rwhp. I just got the 6M today (it's real clean!), and have funds for the other stuff. Any tips/advice/recommendations much appreciated. Keep in mind though, I'm not smog exempt. (Damn!) :burn: Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh, my bad. I forgot to say that I have hi flow 2.5 inch from the hi flow cat all the way to the tip. I'm also still driving around in my 5M but the smog will all go to the 6M when I switch. Also, would it be do-able to install a Chimp intake everyday driving but replace with stock intake & afm during emisions test or would that require more work than it's worth? Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. I'll keep you posted on progress. :violin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
good luck with the setup, i'd like to hear how you made out. also, where did you get your clean 6m? i'm here in cali too!
Central coast used japanese motors. It's in Los Osos, CA about 15 min from Cal Poly. The guy helping me do the swap hooked it up with NO TAX. Saved 53 bucks. (6M runs 750 + tax) I'm gonna take the head off monday and take some pics I can send you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I took the head off yesterday. The bolts smelled like they had been hot at one point. Had to bust out the breaker bar on two of them. A couple of the cylinder walls had some shiny spots, but the hatching is still visible on the others. There were no flat spots on the cam either. I'm thinking domed pistons to up the compression. :) (Not enough valve clearance for flatop right?) If not, I'll at least put in new rings. The head looked good but there was a deposit that was probably from radiator patcher. Based on the heated condition of the bolts and the deposit, I think the engine might have overheated at one point. If other symptoms confirm this suspicion, I'll do a magnaflux to check for cracks. The head went to Power Performance so I'll hear back from them wednesday about its condition. I have pics but no website. :( Where would be a good & free place to post them? All suggestions welcome, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the feedback on the ecu. I'll stick with the 5m ecu fo sho. I also might try that 0-2k ohm resistor idea if I'm having lean problems. Has anyone tried the toysport domed top pistons? :?: So far, that's all I've seen available. I'm thinking of ordering a set tuesday. If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, please let me know. :twak: Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Does anyone know where I can get bigger valves for the 6M? How about a piston ring & engine gasket set? (I already checked import performance parts) I think that I'm only going to go with bigger valves and a port&polish and crank balance job. Toysport said shaving the head is bad becasuse it's too thin already. :naughty: They also said I probably would not pass smog with domed pistons. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
6M is in!! :bling: Ended up just replacing rod bearings & rings (no new pistons) and cleaning honing etc... Runs great except oil pump needs to be replaced. Shouldn't have risked reusing the old one. :pat: (makes >10psi at warmed up idle) I have to hold the e-brake and rev above 1k to maintain 15-20psi at lights. Anyway, thanks to all for the great advice! :3gears: Time to go burn some ricers!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My stock gauges were not giving accurate or consistant readings :? , so I installed an autometer auto gauge mechanical oil pressure and temp gauge console. (which I have listed under mods at the beginning of the thread) Mechanical gauges, I have found, are simpler, and thus easier to work with because there are no electronics to trip out e.g. shorts, voltage drops etc... It also looks pretty schweet mounted to my shifter console! 8)
 
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