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This is by NO MEANS done,needs blanks filled and finished etc.But,hopefully this will help.I'll work on it more later.

7MGTE General MKII Swap.

This write-up is the way I learned to do the swap.There are many differing opinions on several aspects of this swap.I'm not going into those details,just writing what I know personaly.This will basicaly be for a stock swap,with some performance talked about.

1st off,you need a complete 7mgte,with all of it's sensors intact.Must have....Intact engine harness,preferably with any plugs and all small electrics,that plug into it.Air Flow meter,ECU,HAC sensor if 87-8.Included should be the PS pump,and brackets,and A/C pump and bracket.The more complete the better,a running donor car is obviously best.

My basic list,in no particular order.

1.7mge clutch kit,preferably a performance unit.

2.ARP head stud kit. P/N 203-4202

3.Oil filter relocation kit. ford 5.0 PN depends on brand.

4.4 90* AN - 8,and 4 -8 AN adapter fittings. 8 ft 300psi hydrolic line.

5.Toyota T100 heat shield p/n 58151-34011

6.7mgte gasket set.

7.HKS or similar metal head gasket.

8.MKIII intercooler and all plumbing,or custom,either will work.

9.Custom A/C lines to mate MKII to 7mgte a/c compressor.

10.MSD tach adapter.P/N 8920

11.85 or newer 5mge oil pan,and new 85+ oil pump.

I usualy tear the engine down to a short block,inspect cylinder walls,and check bearing clearances.Basic short block is repair as needed.Pistons and rings,only if needed,or forged units are being installed.Bearings,very seldom do they need mains,I usualy replace rod bearings as they are cheap.
Block/head mating suface.Personaly,I clean it well,check it with a straight edge,and don't worry about too much,unless it's noticably in bad shape...ie...warped or pitted.In that case,that block gets set aside for a major build up,or just tossed.

Cylinder head.Pressure tested,and a light "dusting" surface job.I prefer to still be able to make out the old gasket marks,barely.Then,the valves get hand lapped in and new seals installed.I recomend for most,to just have the machine shop do a valve job.I just prefer to do my own work.

Some where about this time,I relocate the dipstick to the 5m location.Starting with a small pilot hole,then drill to size of DS."have to get size" Then plugging the old hole with an allen type pipe plug.

Next would be the rear aluminum timing cover "frt of engine" and all related seals.Then time for the Oil Pump.Rotate the crank a few times,or until it touches the pump housing,or banjo portion of the tube.Some touch,some don't.Remove,and grind as necesary,until crak clears everything.Put the pan on and flip it over.

Whether using a MHG or a stocker,I spray the gasket with Permatex copper gasket spray.This helps out with the block/head surface imperfections,and has yet to fail me in 30years of building various engines.

Cylinder head instalation.Personaly,I use a metal gasket,usualy 1.2mm by HKS,along with ARP head studs.1st off,remove the cams if not already out,they just get in way.Next,istall the washers,in there respective spot,NOW.You'll thank me later.Make sure the washers go down the studs,with the head.It takes a bit of patience,but it's the only way they go in on most heads.Torque to ARP spec,IIRC 95ft#.
If usinf a stock HG ,torque to 65-70ft lbs,NOT the 58 suggested by the TSRM.For stock application/boost,this will last as long or longer than the rest of the engine.

The rest of the basic engine asembly,is covered in any Supra manual,so I not going into detail on that.

Oil filter adapter..........If using the stock 7mgte 90* housing,you will need to rotate it counter-clockwise,OFF it's dowel pin.Torqueing it down,Just to the left of the pin,will allow clearance foe the motor mounts.Check the BGB for torque spec on the bolt holding the 90.IIRC "book in the shop" it's 14 or 17ft lbs.THIS IS CRITICAL !!! If you over torque this bolt,you WILL crack the bung in the block "ask me how I know".
If deleting the stock 90,I have found it best to rob the oil filter "bolt" from the 5m,then add the 5.0 in/out adapter,and then position the AN fittings and oil lines.
Motor mounts...use the stock MKII units,holes are in the block,forward position.For the turbo brace,which now has no place to go,get an early MKIII pass mount,block portion.Angle cut the mount,so as to leave the hole for the turbo brace,bolt it behind the mkii mounts,at stock mkiii location.

While the engine is out of the car,time to clean things up a bit.Personaly,I lose the stock washer tank and pump set-up...don't use headlite washers anyway.I also toss the big friggin carbon canister the mkii comes with,and replace it with one from an 87-91 4 cyl camry.I also relocate it to where the Waher system was.The is 1 bolt hole,on thew inner fender,and a hole for the "breather" tube on the camry unit to go through.I usualky drill a hole for the second screw,a bit oversize,as I never seem to get the measurement dead on :p For W/S washer,I get a bag from the rear of an 84-9 4-runner,build an extension harness,and mount the bag on the drivers shock tower.
I also,in the past have mounted the oil filter relocation adapter,in the area of the washer tank,on the pass. shock tower.Makes getting the filter off a piece of cake.I'll be changing this on Ophir's car,and my own,as the larger turbos generate a bit more heat in that area,than I'm happy with :lol:
New loaction to be posted,when I find a spot I REALLY like.Probably similar to Helmsman's install,by the pass. head light.
 

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Junkie.. i think that also.. posting part #'s on the swap parts like MSD and oil filter relocating kit would also help..keeeping down all the little questions.
 

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MSD tach adapter is #8920

the oil filter relocater to get is one for a ford 302 (5.0L), and the AN adapter fittings/90 degree fittings and stainless hose are an optional upgrade to the crappy rubber hose and barbed fittings that come with the usual oil filter relocation kits

i should also mention that you will need to use the W58 clutch bits with the W58 flywheel from the 5mge, as well as your old 5m engine mounts, clutch cover and engine to transmission lower stiffener plates

plus you gotta grind the AC compressor bracket a bit to the the mount under it

and then there is running the IC piping and the wiring

and you gotta use a pod style air filter cuz the stock one wont fit - and the exhaust needs to be custom (unless you get a chimpy downpipe)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Mike :wink:

Wayne,I'm working on it,just a start.Most from memory,as my notes are not where I remeber :roll:

Funky,thanks for the addition,I'll be working as much in as I can.

ALL.....anything is appreciated.....I just REALLY want to get as much in one thread,as possible.
If anybody has a question they need answered,this is the spot.Doing so here will allow me "and anyone else" to answer,then I can cut/past edit,etc. to get most in the proper order.

I'll be working on this over the next week or two,to get this to be fairly complete.

Thanks
 

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Funkycheeze said:
MSD tach adapter is #8920

the oil filter relocater to get is one for a ford 302 (5.0L), and the AN adapter fittings/90 degree fittings and stainless hose are an optional upgrade to the crappy rubber hose and barbed fittings that come with the usual oil filter relocation kits

Oil Filter Relocation kit
Summit Racing Parts #: TRD-1113

Flex-a-Lite Electric fans (not needed for the swap)
Summit Racing Parts #: FLX-210
 

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more to add:

if using 5m rad, you need to use a 7m upper rad hose (cut to fit) and a 5m lower rad hose, as well as the 5m heater hoses, however

if you have a 87-88 block, there will be a 'cap' on one side of the heater fitting on the back of the head, move this to the other side, and you can use the stock 5m 'suicide' hose

BUT if you have the 89-91 block, you need to use a custom chunk of water hose, since the only fitting is on the 'wrong' side

for the fuel system, you mount the 5m filter/bracket assy to the side of the 7m block, and attach the banjo from the fuel rail to the top (use NEW crush washers on all the fuel system banjo fittings) and then attach the feed line to the filter as it was with the 5m

you can then simply attach the J tube to the fuel return, as per 5m

its also a good idea to use a walbro intank pump to replace the stocker
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the addition Funky.I haven't had a chance to work on my engine,or the write up for a couple weeks.


Again,ANYBODY with a few words of wisdom,please add to this.

I have noticed,since this was started,there have not been any questions about the swap.

I am planning on adding some pics also,just need to dig thru a couple hardrives :p
 

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Junkie, I have the complete list with part #'s from my original kit documents. I will bring them over and you can add them to this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Don,I don't have the whole list here,just know what I want,LOL.I'll be in the shop tomorrow,come on over :)
 

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Here is something to add to the gotcha's list for this swap.

The oil pan's rear windage tray/baffle may hit the rods, I had to yank it out to clear them.

Now I did use silicone for the pan seal instead of a gasket, if you use a gasket the extra thickness might keep it from hitting, I dont know.

Just look out for it, I didnt notice it when I put the pan on until I had the engine in the car, started it and had a nice little bang, bang in the pan :)

Scott
 

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This is a wiring tidbit for those of us doing the wiring.

You wont have any brake lights on an 85 supra after you wire in the 7MGTE, I dont know about other years but the one old ECU connector that stays in the car when you pull the old harness out has a green/white wire.

This wire according to the TSRM goes from the 5M ECU to the stoplight switch.

It needs 12v so that youre stoplights work. Well, since this wire is not needed by the 7M ECU its left with no connection.

I just put a constant 12v to it and bam, the stoplights work.

If this is something old I apologize but I searched and could find nothing anywhere about it.

I found out they didnt work when I went to get it inspected today.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #15
skeen550 said:
This is a wiring tidbit for those of us doing the wiring.

You wont have any brake lights on an 85 supra after you wire in the 7MGTE, I dont know about other years but the one old ECU connector that stays in the car when you pull the old harness out has a green/white wire.

This wire according to the TSRM goes from the 5M ECU to the stoplight switch.

It needs 12v so that youre stoplights work. Well, since this wire is not needed by the 7M ECU its left with no connection.

I just put a constant 12v to it and bam, the stoplights work.

If this is something old I apologize but I searched and could find nothing anywhere about it.

I found out they didnt work when I went to get it inspected today.

Scott

This has NEVER been an issue on ANY car I have worked on.Something in the area of 20 cars wired at this time. :D Never have had your oil pan issue either :wtf:
 

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Stop lights. That's a new one. And likely wrong.

The only reason to trim a small portion of the windage tray is
to allow for easier pan removal once the motor is in the car.

And not having to lower the rear transmission cross member.

Otherwise, the pan hangs up near the 7M oil pump. Small enough to reduce
one's vocabulary to only swear words.
 

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Dont know what to say on the oil pan other than, well it hit for me :)

As far as the stoplight switch wiring goes, if you look in the TSRM, it has the wiring diagram that shows the green/white wire going to the 5m ECU at the top right.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/e/E_005.html

This page shows the stoplight wiring diagram and it also says to ECU green/white.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/e/E_012.html

I took my meter and checked continuity, the wire, just like the TSRM shows goes right from the stoplight switch to the ECU plug.

The TSRM online in the link I listed there is for an 86 but its just like my 85 Toyota book as far as that part goes, it just says TCCS for the ECU and mine says ECU.

I dont know what to say other than, before swap I had stoplights, after swap none.

I put power to the green/white wire by the old ECU plug and they now work.

If I am reading this wiring all wrong and am smoking crack, then please explain where I am wrong here as I dont want to lead others in the wrong direction and will gladly delete my posts or have the moderator do it for me.

My only goal here is to help others if I can.

Thanks,

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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Junkie said:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/e/E_005.html

The upper LEFT g/w wire is just a power up for the 5m ecu.The g/w wire on the right is for ECT and ignored totaly on a 5spd.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/e/E_012.html


The g/w wire in this pics is for the cruise ecu,and if you find it and look,you'll see it has it's own seperate wire,going to a similar or same source.

You have other issues with the stop lights,has nothing to do with the swap.
The g/w wire on the top right says -- From "STOP" fuse (3-4) -- this goes from the ECU plug right to the brake switch, I did a continuity test to check this.

How do you explain this ? An input from the "STOP" fuse going to the ECU ?

I see on the ECT ECU there is a -- From Stop Light S/W (3-4) -- so I would think that that would go to the switch but I dont have an ECT ECU given mine is 5 speed.

Yes, the g/w wire does go to the Cruise Control Computer, the stop light switch, the 15a fuse for the stop light and to the ECU as well.

In looking at this more it would seem that I am not getting power from the 15a stop fuse but the fuse is good and there is power on both sides at the fuse, I must have cut the stoplight power out by mistake when I was in that area (the engine bay fuse/relay box), thats all I can think, as given I gave 12v power to this g/w wire at the old ECU plug end that is supposed to have power already, I should have blown a fuse.

You learn something new everyday, I will look at it tonight, it runs fine as I drove in this morning without a glitch but I want it to be right.

This needs to be moved to its own thread in another area, dont want to clutter up the swap area, sorry.

Scott
 

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FYI, the STOP fuse is not for you brake lights. It sounds like you were getting that confused. I believe the STOP fuse is a source of power for the ECU, not sure though.
 
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