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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, haven't posted much but I have been very busy reading and learning all there is to learn on the 7m swap, I am quite familiar with the 5m (I did a complete rebuild 3 times) and pretty mechanically inclined, but theres a couple things I need to know, first, what is done on the boost sensor? I took the sensor when I got everything for the engine but didn't know how or if it had to be wired up when its in my 82. Second, Im running ARP head studs and not sure to run a stock style head gasket or metal, the machine shops here dont seem to be up to par like they normally are with the economy so was considering just doing a stock style gasket, what boost levels have been run with it? I will just be on a stock CT26 for the time being so nothing crazy, the most I think I will ever hope this engine to make is 350 hp or so when its all said and done (no not with the stock turbo)
any help is appreciated thanks
 

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The boost sensor goes in the trash. It just drives the gauge on the stock Mk3 cluster. If you don't go too crazy and with a good tune you should probably be Ok on the stock gasket if you torque it down to 80ft-lb. Frankly its a lot of work to do it twice though so the MHG is good to do up front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I'm curious... How much of a traction problem do you have with a 7m making around 300 hp swapped mk2? I am wanting this to be just an all around fun car including drifting, but with a tire swap was hoping to hit the drag strip as well. Is this gonna be where you have to pedal it all through 1st and 2nd and hopefully catch in 3rd? This will help me a lot while Im building as it will help with tire choice, and Im considering moving the battery to the back
 

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With a decent set of wheels and tires its a pussy cat.
 

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So I'm curious... How much of a traction problem do you have with a 7m making around 300 hp swapped mk2? I am wanting this to be just an all around fun car including drifting, but with a tire swap was hoping to hit the drag strip as well. Is this gonna be where you have to pedal it all through 1st and 2nd and hopefully catch in 3rd? This will help me a lot while Im building as it will help with tire choice, and Im considering moving the battery to the back
I'VE RUN 274whp,with 225/65/R14's and traction was no problem in a straight line ,in the dry. Also i did have all undecarriage bushes replaced and stiffer shocks fitted allround.NOW TURNING WHILE ON THE GAS IS A DIFFERENT STORY WHEN THE BOOST KICKS IN, AND IN THE WET IT WILL BREAK LOOSE IN ANY GEAR , EVEN AT 70MPH. I DON'T RECOMMEND BURYING YOUR FOOT AT ALL! THAT BEING SAID PAY SOME ATTENTION TO YOUR SUSPENSION IF YOUR GOING TO RUN 300whp . MK2 SUSPENSION WAS MADE TO COPE WITH UNDER 180hp. THE 7MGTE ADDED AN EXTRA 120 kg
 

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My rear tires are pretty bald, dynoed at 307 and 314ft lbs. The usually catch pretty good in 3rd, 2nd depends on the terrain and quality of pavement, and 1st is good at not quite wot. On the track, I heat up my soft street tires, and then slip the clutch out of the hole. No traction issues at all.
 
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