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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm just a littlle paranoid about this oil I'm using. And the car not running for quite some time. I noticed like a really thick sludge coming out slowly of the diff hole. :D So I use this Sta-Lube Limited Slip HYPOID>SAE 80w90 GEAR OIL Api/GL-5 Plus I had sittin on the shelf. And just put it in the 82 P-type tranny and differential. Thinkin flush out everthing again on the next oil change(3000miles) when I get this thing going. And put some Redline oil in the tranny and diff after a little flush with the Sta-Lube 80W90.
I think its Ok cuz I read something like this but a little confusing on page 1-2 of the Haynes manual on recomended lubes and fluid. But feeling this book is very outdated. Any suggestions please. Is what I am doing OK or safe on the high milage tranny and diff?
 

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technically you are supposed to use GL4 spec fluid in the tranny....this is slightly different from GL5 in that i think there is a different additive for the synchros....

i asked around and couldn't get the best answer from anyone about it, but i do know that gl5 supercedes gl4 in all normal applications, however there are certain applications (such as our transmissions) which do call for gl4 over gl5...

having said this, i'm not sure exactly which one to go for, but gl4 is much much more expensive, especially for synthetic

i run synthetic gl4 in my tranny and synthetic gl5* in my diff....
 

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Danny, you can use Redline 75w90"NS" or MT90 in the 5 spd. Redline 75w90 in the LSD and do slow figure 8s after changing to lube the clutch packs. I get Redline locally very cheap compared to mail order and have used RL for yrs.

And I run Redline 10/40 with Amsoil oil filters :D

Amsoil or Vavoline is fine as well. Dave A is our resident Amsoil dealer if Redline is too hard to fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tranny lube

:D Verry happy with your replies. And the recomended REDLINE oils. I think :idea: the GL-5 is ok cuz I'm reading here in the Haynes book that it says for the Manual tranny lubricant 80w90 GL-4 or GL-5. But this oil I'm using also is for LIMITED SLIP. I'm a little worried here, limited slip diffy oil in the tranny? OK temporarily maybe? Just want to get some of the gunk and old particles out before putting in some Redline for the diff and tranny.
 

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D, if you get too much gear grinding in the 5spd then change oil. I have used RL 75w90(LSD) in my gearbox previously with no grinding.
 

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The Amsoil series 2000 75W-90 gear lube (blue stuff) is hard to beat for both the MKII diff. and 5-speed trans., provided that both are in good mechanical condition. Great flow characteristics combined with excellent thermal stability! Meets GL-2 through GL-5 and MT-1 specs.. Cost is $7.20 per quart compared to $5.85 for one of the original gear lube formulas. Well worth the extra $$$.
80W-90 is your typical GL-4 and MT-1 spec. lube but synthetic gear lube formulations have come a long way since the 80's. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
synthethic

Thanks Dave, you are the guy to ask on this topic. I'm always lookin :shock: for the best synthetics. And its alway been hard for me to decide between Amsoil &:x Redline.

I use Mobil 1 in the motor to budget myself & have 176K miles still running new on my AE101. Just switched from 5w30 to 10w30. Heard its a little thicker and better for high milage motors. Hope this 5mge does the same. :D Then 7mgte, here we come :!:
 

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The sludge build-up in your rear diff. is due in part to the breakdown of the conventional lube that you've been using and perhaps from not changing it at regular intervals. How many miles are on your rear diff.? Do try flushing the diff. and your trans. with fresh lube and keep an ear on it for any unusual noises that may have not been evident or not quite as loud before the flush. The trans. suffers in much the same way as the parts in the rear diff. from breakdown of the lube. The machined grooves in the brass synchro rings can become clogged with gunk which can prevent them from doing a less than adequate job of synchronizing shaft speeds during gear shifts, and thus the grinding sound that you hear when shifting gears. The key is to cleanse the internal parts of the trans. and remove the gunk that is preventing the synchros from working properly. Good synthetic lubes will slowly cleanse the rear diff. and trans. of the performance robbing gunk and usually restore both back into good working condition, provided that there is no excessive wear on the internal parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Dave :wink: I bought the car pretty torn up for $200. Needing right door, fender, rack & pinion, bumpers and engine. The origninal 82 motor was actually running :shock:, the odometer says 198,648 miles on it. And must have been sitting for at least a few years, and who knows how many miles put on the diff and tranny. But didn't look so good. Very dark oil. Not as bad in the tranny though. :mad:

So I figure using some cheap stuff before swiching to the synthetics would be smarter. Because I saw alot of sludge coming out slowly :x so I kept the hole open for 2 days before filling it with the cheap Sta-Lube. And see what comes out at the next oil change. :shock:
 

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Wow! 198,000 + miles on the rear diff. with lube that has seen much better days. Not a good combination! See how the diff. reacts to the fresh lube and listen carefully for any new or more prominent noises. If the diff. gets sloppy and noisy after the change then switching over to synthetic lube would just be a waste of time and money. Better to rebuild the diff. and then run synthetic lube. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'LL ACCEPT

:roll: I'm prepared to accept a rebuild or replacement if noises occur. But I do remeber doing a test drive on this thing before I bought it cheap. :) No compression, no power steering, but no noises when I drove up half a block and had a hard time making a U-turn coming back around. But I know thats not enough driving to tell as of yet :?
 
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