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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im new to old toyotas so I've got a 83 5mge and it's not starting
I've dropped the tank and redone the fuelpump im getting fuel starting fluid won't help her either
so fuel is out of the question but I've tried redoing the timeing with help from the tsrm but no dice
anyone with more knowledge anything helps
 

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If you put a timing light on a spark plug wire, does it lights-up? Rotor and cap condition?
 

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So previously in January you posted that it WOULD run with starting fluid? Between then and now, had you ever had it running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
So previously in January you posted that it WOULD run with starting fluid? Between then and now, had you ever had it running?
yes for a few days on its own fuel
it was rough idle i mean it sounded like a tractor and whould loose power if i tryed to give it gas it whould hesatate and whould not build rpm so I tried to do the timeing in hopes if smoothing it out and it stalled out and I've not been able to get her running sence
 

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Sounds like you have spark and fuel, once you know for sure you do, its time to start from scratch at this point.

Rotate to TDC for #1 piston using a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, check the crank gear to make sure it is reading exactly at 0 degrees. Next, pull the cover off the cams and make sure the belt is set to the timing marks as stated in the TSRM. Next, follow the TSRM to stab the distributor back into the head and triple-check to make sure the rotor is pointing to the proper position when its seated all the way into the head. Button everything up, short the timing connector, re-time the engine. It should idle on its own at this point and not have any strange tractor noises at all, if it does, you may have lost a crank bearing or bent valves or something bigger going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like you have spark and fuel, once you know for sure you do, its time to start from scratch at this point.

Rotate to TDC for #1 piston using a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, check the crank gear to make sure it is reading exactly at 0 degrees. Next, pull the cover off the cams and make sure the belt is set to the timing marks as stated in the TSRM. Next, follow the TSRM to stab the distributor back into the head and triple-check to make sure the rotor is pointing to the proper position when its seated all the way into the head. Button everything up, short the timing connector, re-time the engine. It should idle on its own at this point and not have any strange tractor noises at all, if it does, you may have lost a crank bearing or bent valves or something bigger going on.
I'll try this and will post a update as soon as it's done
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tire Wheel Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Automotive tire Engineering Wood Auto part Gas

Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Black Blue

Blue Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Wire

Light Automotive tire Black Wood Bumper

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Alloy wheel Rim

update I've done the timeing
but no dice but progress
so I gave it starting fluid and it wanted to run
so back to fuel
I jumped the pump and it's running and the bolt on the fuel rail is getting fuel
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas

so where should I go from here
 

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Got an led like this layin' around by chance?

Automotive lighting Cosmetics Laboratory equipment Medical equipment Service


You can stick that into the wiring harness of each injector to see if you're getting voltage to them. Note, it should be a 12vdc led and if it doesn't light up, flip it around because they are directional (long lead is positive).

Check to make sure your injectors are getting pulses as you turn the engine over. If each one flashes, you're getting power to the injectors and its now time to test the injectors themselves.

EDIT:
If you don't have a 12vdc led but something smaller, and you don't care about burning it out, you can try using that too, although it may be damaged by the time you get to the 6th injector.

Also, just to sum up so far, we know the vehicle wants to run as shown by starting on ether, so we know for a fact that you have enough compression to get it to run, enough spark to fire, and all you need now is fuel, which is why its important to see whether the ecu is sending power to the injectors (or, more precisely, ground, as the injectors are fed +12vdc and the ecu pulses a ground to them to fire). If they are getting pulsed, its the injectors that are either clogged or dead, although I doubt all 6 are dead all at the same time.

You may also notice that the injectors are batch-fired, meaning that there are 2 banks containing 3 injectors each that fire at the same time, and there should be enough fuel from the other intake runners to send fuel into the cylinders to make it run--badly, but at least run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got an led like this layin' around by chance?

View attachment 20793

You can stick that into the wiring harness of each injector to see if you're getting voltage to them. Note, it should be a 12vdc led and if it doesn't light up, flip it around because they are directional (long lead is positive).

Check to make sure your injectors are getting pulses as you turn the engine over. If each one flashes, you're getting power to the injectors and its now time to test the injectors themselves.

EDIT:
If you don't have a 12vdc led but something smaller, and you don't care about burning it out, you can try using that too, although it may be damaged by the time you get to the 6th injector.

Also, just to sum up so far, we know the vehicle wants to run as shown by starting on ether, so we know for a fact that you have enough compression to get it to run, enough spark to fire, and all you need now is fuel, which is why its important to see whether the ecu is sending power to the injectors (or, more precisely, ground, as the injectors are fed +12vdc and the ecu pulses a ground to them to fire). If they are getting pulsed, its the injectors that are either clogged or dead, although I doubt all 6 are dead all at the same time.

You may also notice that the injectors are batch-fired, meaning that there are 2 banks containing 3 injectors each that fire at the same time, and there should be enough fuel from the other intake runners to send fuel into the cylinders to make it run--badly, but at least run.
I'm checking out the ecu rn but I'll try that next I'll keep yall posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
update so we did a 2nd round of spark tests and compression tests they Came back good the resistor was bad so we swaped it out still no dice
but no fuel was being injected so we are terring into the ecm we tryed to get codes from it and no dice

it probably won't be completely done or swaped with a test one today but if it is ill post a update
but so far it looks like a dead ecm or no communication from it

thank yall for the suport I hope we can figure this out soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
so we tried a different ecu on it and still no fuel
back to square 1


so we have good compression
I fixed the vacuum leak
we have good fuel with good pressure getting to the rail
good strong spark
the solenoid resistor is good
the ecu is good
timing is 0ed out on cams and distributor



even if a injector was clogged or bad to have all 6 go in 1 spit i find unlikely
and pully markings all the way the tsrm want

I'm lost at this point these motors don't seem to be that angry

only thing I'm thinking at this point is it's a 83 motor in a 85 car with a 85 harness
 

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You check the injector resistor pack yet? These are low impedance injectors with a pull-up resistor box on the driver's side fenderwell.



Edit:
Ignore my above post, you've already checked the resistor pack, ie., solenoid resistor. I'm assuming you're using a TSRM to go through the troubleshooting section on the efi, the only thing I can think of at this point is to double-check power and ground at the injectors themselves. Again, you'll want to use an led to check for it, as a regular test light usually won't show the extremely short duration of power sent to the injectors. Looking at the wiring schematic, you should have white going directly to the ecu pins "no.10" and "no.20", those should send ground pulses to injectors. The two banks of 3 injectors each go to the resistor pack, they are blue and yellow and should supply +12vdc with the ignition key in the ON position. Check the blue and yellow wires at the injectors for +12vdc with the key on. If no power, check your mrel#1 and its connections/fuses.
I've attached a couple screenshots to help you visualize the way its set up:

Schematic Font Engineering Parallel Floor plan
Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Pattern
 

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Anyone else notice the timing gears look like a mix of old and new? Round teeth at the top and square teeth on the bottom one? How is the Crank to Cam timing?
While not electronic like the path you are on it may be an ALSO problem.

Wasn't it square tooth gears for 82/83 and round tooth 84-86
 

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Yeah, round tooth for 84/85. You're on to something, Jeremy. If you want to use the 83 engine, swap everything , using only the 83 long block. Swap timing gears, crank pulley, ect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Anyone else notice the timing gears look like a mix of old and new? Round teeth at the top and square teeth on the bottom one? How is the Crank to Cam timing?
While not electronic like the path you are on it may be an ALSO problem.

Wasn't it square tooth gears for 82/83 and round tooth 84-86
the timeing is OK good spark its happy just the injectors won't fire everything else is working happy
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
so upon further inspection the body of the car major rot has destroyed a large part of the harness
I have a 83 shell that has a new 83 harness im tempted to put it in the 83 and see if it will work then
match the harness to the same year of the engine
 
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