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Discussion Starter #21
nice introduction.
hey thank you very much... again im sorry its long winded...
Well shes home safe and sound.... im still blown away by how clean the body is... one patch of bad rust and thats about it... underbody looks just as rust free (except for the wheel well tube that is, but i expected that)





i was also amazed that all the little stuff worked, power windows, power mirrors, power sun roof ECT...
was a little disappointed at how tired she was tho... No power to her (even when cold, worse when warm) I didn’t see or smell any smoke burning but she sounded like she was going fall apart at about 4k rpm (piston slap?).
The last owner freshly rebuilt the head, put in a new fuel tank, pump, filter, spark plugs, wires, o2 sensor. but he didn’t touch the lower end.. not even a front main seal (that currently leaks :SM130 (1): )
id like to toy around and see if i can get her running better, but im fairly set on swapping out the lower end when i strip her down...
I will however do a compression test across the board just to see what there is to see...
but yeah, she goes on jack stands in the middle of the garage tomorrow and the destruction begins!
 

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i was also amazed that all the little stuff worked, power windows, power mirrors, power sun roof ECT...
Welcome Ghoul! That statement is pretty common place with these cars...no matter how run down ragged these cars get, it seems all the little stuff usually works. It's always the damn AC and rear diffs that are haggard. Great intro...enjoyed seeing your past projects. I'll find it interesting to see how some of your old projects reflect on your new one!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Welcome Ghoul! That statement is pretty common place with these cars...no matter how run down ragged these cars get, it seems all the little stuff usually works. It's always the damn AC and rear diffs that are haggard. Great intro...enjoyed seeing your past projects. I'll find it interesting to see how some of your old projects reflect on your new one!
thank you!
Ive always said that cars are a wast of money, but the tools and education you aquire from them are what your truly investing in...
id like to think that each of my cars has taught me something new (old firebirds=high compression na builds, honda stuff=cpu tuning fuel systems turbo systems, 83celica gts & 87 supra= some times gone is too gone!).

well little update. Turns out a guy guy in my area has a freshly professional rebuilt engine (still in the crate) for $1000 :naughty:
Im going to pick that up, then snag that short block i have the lead on, slap my head on the short block and stuff it into the corner for a spare engine...
 

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Most hobbies are a waste of money, at least from a fiscal point of view. I'm no banker if you catch by drift...I don't count beans, I eat them. It's the pride of accomplishment, goal achievement, and being able to enjoy the fruits of your labor that matters. Money may not be able to buy happiness...but it sure as hell can buy a Precision Turbo to help out with the boost addiction.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Money may not be able to buy happiness....
ever see any one frown on a wave runner? :laugh:

starting to think this project is going to be a bit longer than i thought... im thinking i might just take all winter with this one and re-paint her while i have it all appart :naughty: ...
well the project officially starts!
today i pulled the plugs and saw this (front cylinder to the left all stacked in order)

back plug is just dripping with gas...
also did a compression test and came up with this
from front to rear;
142,150,150,140,150,150
i honestly expected it to be worse...
well the body is amazing. I pulled off the grill, marker lights, front fender flairs and inner splash shields and all the metal under it was clean as could be... im used to cars being rust buckets by the time they get to me... i was blown away!!
Oh, don’t get me wrong I broke like all the bolts holding the front bumper on….but other than that the rest came apart easy as pie…
 

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Bad plug wire, or leaky injector would be my guess on that first cylinder. Those are pretty decent dry compression numbers. PB Blaster rust penatrant is your friend for bumper bolts...wait until you take the front bumper support off...the rear bumper bolts will be fun (the one's through the frame rail)
 

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I think that I'll be keeping an eye on this build as I have an 83P that is just sitting, and won't sell locally. It was my first Supra, not that I have a bunch, and I am having a hard time thinking of it going. I may very well have to follow suit and get the old 83 going again. Keep up the build, and best of luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Bad plug wire, or leaky injector would be my guess on that first cylinder. Those are pretty decent dry compression numbers. PB Blaster rust penatrant is your friend for bumper bolts...wait until you take the front bumper support off...the rear bumper bolts will be fun (the one's through the frame rail)
bought a gallon of the stuff just for the project (ya know the combo pack with the free sprayer bottle.)
i just got a little too ambitious and wanted to get to ripping things apart...
its ok tho, i have a good set of metric taps that i haven’t had a chance to use yet...

He had new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor on it. There are all of 20 miles on the freshly rebuilt head with new valves and seats... so yeah, the injector would be my guess too. unless he got a defective wire, or it wasn’t making contact..
Ill just add injectors to the list of new stuff for the brand new crate engine im picking up this weekend!! :naughty:

buddy of mine has had it in the corner of his shop for a while and could use the $1000... :zzzzz:

its becoming very apparent to me that this is going to be more than a quick re-fresh.... As tough as its going to be to take apart the front end it doesn’t make any kind of sense to paint the engine bay and throw it all back together, just to drive it during winter, and then take it all back apart again to paint it come spring...
im better off just doing it all while its apart!

mom is in no rush for her minivan... so ill soccer mom it till then.... Ill be much more excited to get it on the road at that point any how!

I think that I'll be keeping an eye on this build as I have an 83P that is just sitting, and won't sell locally. It was my first Supra, not that I have a bunch, and I am having a hard time thinking of it going. I may very well have to follow suit and get the old 83 going again. Keep up the build, and best of luck to you.
well just keep this in mind... all the neat stuff I’ve been buying has so far run up a tab of around $4,000 exactly $3239.76 (including the car and all the expenses to bring it into town, not including the long block im picking up this weekend). Yes i could have gotten away with alot less, but this will be my DD starting next summer so i wanted to take no chances when it came to reliability, the wife would never let me get away with a less-than-clean interior, and I hang with a very car-oriented crowed. A minivan is transportation, a supra that is slower than a minivan and handles worse than one.. that’s just a friggin disgrace.

guess what im saying is,
if you want to re-ferb it for your self... go for it, there is very little things on this earth more rewarding. If your trying to do it to turn a quick buck off of it... just paint it, get it running and ebay it...
 

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guess what im saying is,
if you want to re-ferb it for your self... go for it, there is very little things on this earth more rewarding. If your trying to do it to turn a quick buck off of it... just paint it, get it running and ebay it...
If I do get this car into the rebuild stage, I don't believe that I will sell it. It already pains me that I have this car up for sale, as it was my first Supra. When I look at it, I see a resto-custom in the works. Stock body, with a more modern motor, such as in your build, the 1J, or a 7M. I may have to start taking it all apart and installing the 85 body panels that I have acquired for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
well, that was fun
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=51622
but now i know where this is going..
I was planning on taking the head off the crate engine right away any how (throw a better head gasket and arp studs on it) Ill take a look at the pistons when i do... If they are domed ill go ahead and swap them out for flat (possibly do arp main and rod studs while im at it).
Then once the engine goes in ill be following 'the formula' to boost it..
Makes alot of sence once its broken down for you... The amount of power you can put thur a 5mgte (following the formula) seems to be limited by the injectors and pump witch is a good safe guard and will keep your w58 from throwing out metal chunks!!
I am a little bummed that i have to replace my bad injectors with stock replacements insted of using the 310cc ones i have sitting in the corner :(
but on the bright side, the FMIC, HKS BOV, and most of my plumbing seem to be suitable for the application!
You need to spend a few days reading the 5/6/7MGTE turbo section of the forum. All your answers are in there, and everyone is just being nice by not answering your other post (otherwise you would need a flame suit).
Well you were a little bit off about my answers being there… but you were spot on about me having to knock the dust off my flame suit… I eventually got satisfactory answers..
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
New bits for the build




*EDIT*
Rock auto clearence items just got the better of me (thanx again bozosoku for posting the link in the sale section!).... I did good, only thing i ordered that i have no clue if i need or not is the fuel pressure regulator... The deal that drew me in though was a set of *customer service verrified this for me* 6 pistons and ring set for $16.41!!! The guy couldnt tell me if they were high dome or low just they were for an 82-85 5mge... we will see...
new parts on the way tho;
- front disc brake hardwear kit
- rear disc brake hardwear kit
- pistons with rings
- fuel injection pressure regulator
- air filter
- cylinder head gasket
- serpentine belt
- front caliper repair kit (didnt reailize 1kit=1caliper)
- rear caliper repair kit (again didnt realize 1kit=caliper)
- trans input shaft seal
- trans output shaft seal
total little less than $140 shipped...
we will have to see on the pistons and if the hardwear kits are the same as the calipers (1kit=1caliper worth)... all the other hardwear kits i ever bought were enough to do both sides....
 

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Discussion Starter #35
this is a good read...

http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html

ill just have to test to see how complacated it actually is...

seems to me out of this and every thing i have seen if youve ever had a fish tank before, and you have a battery charger, a couple of coolers (or tupperwear bins)... your half way there...
 

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Discussion Starter #36
day of hustling in the rain !!
Took in a load of scrap metal (1300 lbs) that officially is the last of my junk at mom and dads place… banked me a good $90 (scraped the AC, leaking radiator, and stock exhaust as well)
Drove half way across state and picked up some parts!
I thought I was just getting a 0 mile long block for $1000... I got way more than I expected!!!
- nib 82-83 *I think* 5m long block
- lots of extra old stock parts
- nib water pump
- nib 84+ oil pump *I think*
- nib 84+ oil pan *I think*
- nib automatic trans radiator
- used head
- used pace setter exhaust manifold and exhaust system with home made test pipe
- stack of random nib gaskets
- darn near fully dressed intake with another set of injectors *need 2 more good ones to have a full good set*
All the pics below!
Here’s the situation… guy I bought it from bought the water pump, oil pan, and oil pump then when he went to put it together he realized that the pump was wrong and so was the pan… basically the oil pump has a tube with the input shaft recessed into it. Input shaft has a slot cut into it. He told me that the correct oil pump should have the male side of the connection not the female side as it does now…
So either the long block is an 82-83 and the oil pump is an 84+ or vise versa..
I know the 84+ 5m engines had a knock sensor some where off the back of the block, but im not up enough on them to identify where It should be…
It would work out too well if it turns out this is an 82-83 engine with low compression pistons. That way I can boost it more easily!!
Either way … heck of a good deal!
And lastly after that was all said and done I trucked all the way back home, made a deal on some of my old Honda parts netting me another $180 for the cause, back to the house to unload the truck and another 40 mile round trip to return dads truck…
I am beat and cant wait to start playing with the car again!!!






 

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That's an 85 oil pan...don't think the slot in the bottom of the oil pump matters dude...its the gear that meshes with the oil pump drive shaft that makes it work. DON'T use an oil pan gasket on that pan...use Toyota FIPG sealant or equivalent (Honda-Bond for instance, no Permatex crap). The Toyota FIPG is cheaper and works the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
sweet thank you for the info...
he said a fiew times that the intake had round runners insted of D shaped... so that would mean that his bolt ons would be the 82 style... ill have to look closer at the timing belt to see if they are round or square teeth to get a better idea of what the engine is...

im still think/hope that its the low compression engine. i think it is seeing how he said the pan was wrong and you confirmed that its an 85 pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
found some time to my self today... so i got some work done.
i stripped down the intirrior... all except for the head liner, dash, doors, and rear seat belts (bolts are rusted big time.. im going to try some pb blaster from under the car).
Im very pleased to see how clean the floor boards are... only a fiew areas that showed rust damage; trunk well, tops of the wheel wells, around the drivers side strut tower, bottom of the hatch window seal and drivers side rear seat belt area.
some of it i can weld in some patch metal and make due, but i might just have to por-15 and fiberglass the areas with complex compound curves that i cant find replacement metal for..
but all and all, im very pleased. the floor boards look great, and aside from the drivers seat, center consoul around the radio, carpet, and center arm rest all the intirror bits look clean and reusable!!!










 
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