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Discussion Starter #141
Swapped the door hinges out with some freshly rebuilt ones from Ray. What a difference. The trick is to do one hinge at a time, takes some finagling, but beats having to re-align a door from scratch. Tighten from inside the fender well with a ratcheting wrench after removing the liner with the bucket of 10mm bolts that takes. The striker on the car body is reversible, mine was super worn out so i took it off the a big honkin phillips screwdriver, flipped it, and she shuts like a dream now. It used to sag at least a half inch at the end so you had to lift the door to shut it, not anymore :D

Video: http://youtu.be/FVTOKllJCFs
 

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I bought a few #3 Phillips head bits and an IMPACT screwdriver. Works fine!
Yes,it WILL come out.
What also works is an air hammer .As you are hammering,just a slight bit of torque will remove that bolt. HE HE!
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Hit up Ray85P for hinges. I was seeing if he had any not terribly bad ones stashed around he would sell me and he ended up sending me those for a fair price. That or send yours to a machine shop to be rebuilt. There are supposed to be kits out there to rebuild em i think, but just having a spare set to toss in one at a time was awesome.
 

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Yes,I have seen rebuild kits!
Metric,I'll assume. Comes with brass bushings and it takes some time to fit and adjust.
 

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What is it specifically that needs to be rebuilt?

We were looking at my droopy driver door SUnday, talking about tightening vs shimming. Guess there is a better way.
 

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If sag is your only concern, you can just adjust the hinges you have. Rebuilding them however will get rid of the slop around the pin.

Gamble, how tight is that nylock nut to the hinge body? And I hope you installed them with the nuts pointing down. Not sure I would trust a nylock to stay on for the long haul, they use mandrel pressed pins for a reason. As you said you can buy rebuild kits, basically just new pins. Get some domestic ones that are a larger diameter and the right length, then drill out your hinges to match and you should be good to go.
 

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I should have said, rebuilding them is good for chassis response. Your doors have side impact beams and they actually contribute to the structural integrity of your chassis. If you rebuild your hinges, vs just adjusting your door upwards so it doesn't sag, it should in theory get rid of a little slop, in an already very sloppy chassis. If that matters to you at all.
 

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Good tip. I'll probably just have to get the door off and decide from there. Concern #1 is not breaking the window or further damaging the pillar trim.
 

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Read Gamble's post again. There's no need to remove the door at all. So no risk to the window or trim. I'll dig up the details on what kit(s) will work depending on how worn your hinges are and post the details soon. There's nothing listed anywhere for our cars, but a lot of research found a few that can work depending on your hinge condition. Note that if the hinges are worn to the point that the pin wore through the bushing and the holes for them are worn, they must be accurately drilled to one of two larger sizes while clamped in proper alignment or they'll be a royal PITA to align and will wear very quickly again. The best option is to find used hinges that aren't worn that badly and rebuild those unless you or someone else has the proper equipment to redrill the holes with the hinge parts properly aligned.
 

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I'll look forward to reading that, Ray. Mine appear to be in very good condition, and there's lots of evidence of them being well lubed over the years!

- Jim
 

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Some good points there Ray! I've never actually needed to rebuild a set myself yet, but I've certainly run into lots of doors with huge sag.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Took the ole girl to tx2k in Houston and had a blast, got some great pics too. Full album of pics in case you want to scope it out:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Noc3MevFShGbGt8J2



Ended up getting a tow home due to massive oil leakage, AAA to the rescue. Younger me would have spent the night, tried to sourced some parts, and fixed it and driven it while dumping oil at it. I used my once a year long free tow, got it home safe and sound, and will fix it at my leisure, after the blue car of course...

Prime example of how bad the camber gets when you lower these things too much. Hellaflush bro



Also picked up a full set of stock 3rd gen RX-7 wheels for a buddy while I was there. 4x 225/50 16's on 16x8's fits like a glove with room for spares, literally. Spare parts, and of course my spare tire in the stock location.
 

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Gamble what/where was the oil leakage??
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Cam seal for sure, haven't pulled enough to verify if the front main is bad too though. The sheer amount of oil being slung around leads me to believe so, but i don't know for sure. Still have yet to pop the hood and play with it since i got it home, just quick wash and under the cover. Still focusing on the new ride so it is ready for day to day use so i can verify that it can be trusted on a road trip :D
 

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Copy keep us posted!!
 

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Discussion Starter #159
So turns out my new car has the early style square tooth timing pulleys, and the kit i bought is for round tooth style. Jun 84 build date so i didn't even think to check. I do however have a parts car i can swap to the later round style pulleys, or is there something i'm not thinking of? I tried a quick search and found nothin, mostly just people talking about how to do the timing belt. Nobody local has the square tooth belts that I can find. Honestly just say the word and i'll order the square tooth junk in the morning before the shipping cut off and wait for the mailman...

I made great progress in there tonight though, verified parts fitment on a ton of other things are good at least... Engine/trans are out, trans is now cleaned up along with all parts needed for that to be put back in. Engine bay mostly clean... Engine parts still need cleaning but at least i can see the small projects that are doable if i can get friends over to help scrub stuff.
 
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