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from 85 tsrm

to deck: from deck:
GR BR-R (right RH)
L-Y BR-W
B BR-B (reak LH)
BR BR-Y
R-W LG (front Lh)
L
P (front Lh)
V


to "power amp" from "PA"
RW LG-R
L-Y LG-B
BR
LG (from deck speaker lead)
P (frpm deck speaker lead)

Crap after all that it's eazier to just take a pix of the digram and modifymy page and post it up so here it is.\



HTH
If not get back to me and I find out what ya need..

will
 

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I would recommend to go to walmart, pepboys, circuit city etc. and get an adapter, this way you get "traditional color code" this way you may even "wire" the stereo outside the console and just plug it when youre done . . . .

costs about $10 usdlls in walmart :wink:
 

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Yes, please for gods sake, if its not hacked already dont do it. Buy an adapter and sit down in front of your favorite TV show and wire it, then just go out to the car and plug it in. People who cut wiring harnesses out are at the top of my list for people who should be shot.
 

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SupraWes said:
Yes, please for gods sake, if its not hacked already dont do it. Buy an adapter and sit down in front of your favorite TV show and wire it, then just go out to the car and plug it in. People who cut wiring harnesses out are at the top of my list for people who should be shot.

I second that SupraWes the 84 I just bought has been Hacked-R-Us by the previous owner, major PITA
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks a lot for the help, guys. I'll try... My problem is that, yep, it's been hacked! The connector was lopped off so I just have a bundle of wires on my hands.
 

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well, you just saved your a** from these people, now that you explained why . . . let me give you some advice . . . use splice, butt, or any other good connector you may have but . . . DO NOT use the typical black tape, this creates a mess and can cause you big trouble . . .

also you can solder wires and isolate the connection with heat shrink tubing . . . .

now, if you change your stereo from time to time a "universal"connector would be a good idea, like the one on chevrolets OE, you can find an adapter easier than an import car´s, this way you only do the job once . . .

good luck with wiring and have fun!
 

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soder and shrink wrap.
 

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or if you can find "security grade" crimp connectors...
they arent the absolute best option, but they provide almost as good a bond as solder... and yes, i have tested it, by running 12 volts at 1 amp through both types of connection, with some sophisticated high end volt meters and power supplies in the school lab.

the solder join wasted almost no power, i think 0.04 volts, and the burtek brand connectors were at 0.06 volts loss...
not bad, not bad at all.

ill try to find a source for these in canada if i can, but burtek isnt supposed to sell to you unless you work for an alarm/camera company :?

if the hacked wire mess is too annoying to figure out, just run all new wires from the engine bay, or from the interior fuse box, sometimes its much simpler :)
 

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