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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brought my new acquisition to a local shop and he started a list for me of what he sees needs to be done. I could really use your help with advice on sourcing parts and beginning repairs.

Air conditioning was one of my main concerns being in Texas and it is summertime. He said the compressor is locked up and has several leaks. I would appreciate your help finding where replacement compressors available or if a rebuild is an option. Any other parts usually part of the air conditioning in this year model? I would appreciate any DIY information on this. Thank you in advance!

Broken knock sensor. That sounds internal and I hope sounds worse than it actually is. Again, any source for this and any DIY available that you could refer me to?

"Very low brake pedal" and not completely sure what he means by that.

He also mentioned "very loose gear shifter". There is definitely a good bit of play in it. Any help here? Again, I like any DIY material that may be available.

I know pdupler is over in Fort Worth and I would appreciate any help finding local resources or groups. Ready to get my hands dirty and hope it will keep running and driving in the meantime.
 

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Knock sensor is attached to the block, helps the ECU to change timing if knock (pinging) is detected...
 
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Highly recommended is to change the receiver/dryer when working on A/C...

R12 isnt too bad cost wise if your patient and can buy 2-3 cans, but you'll need a EPA 609 license to purchase from most sellers on eBay...or know a guy or shop that has a license...I would also get a can or two of oil conditioner (2 oz of R12 and 2 oz of oil)
 
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"Low brake pedal" could mean pads worn to the point of needing replacement.

Ask specially what the mechanic found, pads worn? needs a new master cylinder? pedal mushy??
 
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Well, AJ answered them all!

The AC compressor, dryer, oil, evap, expansion vve, are also available at Rockauto.com (always look fie Celica with the L6 2.8 liter)

Knock Sensor is bolted to the block, just under the intake runners, about #3 cyl. Without it, you will have a fault code. Avail at Rockauto too, just select the one with the proper plug. (single tab)
FYI, I had an issue with that 15 years, ago, still had the code after swapping the sensor. Ended up being the wire from sensor to ECU that was broken.

Low brake pedal could be pad wear or faulty master. Need more details.

Wobbly Shifter
A member of this site (BillyM) develop a replacement kit that he must have sold close to 100 with as much happy customers!
AJ provided the link above.

Happy wrenching!
 
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Its actually a fairly common compressor, just the fitting block and clutch/pulley are different between cars. You can try Yellow Rose Distributors, on Minnis Dr in Haltom City for a rebuilt exchange or to get yours rebuilt.
 
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Is the CEL on?
Broken knock sensor. That sounds internal and I hope sounds worse than it actually is. Again, any source for this and any DIY available that you could refer me to?
I'm just curious. When someone says broken I usually picture physical damage although people also say broken when they mean faulty. How was the 'broken' knock sensor diagnosed? Did the shop find a physically broken sensor during visual inspection? Or did they do the ol' tap the engine block with a hammer while idling and the RPMs didn't drop like it should've with a good knock sensor? Or is your CEL (check engine light) on and they found a fault code for knock sensor?
Assuming the CEL is on and they checked the codes, it can be a PITA retrieving the correct fault codes, especially if you're not familiar with the Mark 2 Supra. I don't remember the entire list but the TSRM has a checklist of criteria that has to be done before it will blink the fault code. Like "throttle plate fully closed" or something like that and "battery above 11 volts", etc. And then counting the blinking light to get the correct code...
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Highly recommended is to change the receiver/dryer when working on A/C...

R12 isnt too bad cost wise if your patient and can buy 2-3 cans, but you'll need a EPA 609 license to purchase from most sellers on eBay...or know a guy or shop that has a license...I would also get a can or two of oil conditioner (2 oz of R12 and 2 oz of oil)
this is the latest from the shop who is looking at it:

Here is a parts list for the ac
Compressor
Condenser
Dryer
Expansion valve
Ac flush
Ac retro fit kit

The only thing I would need from you would be a ac compressor,and Condenser
For example the ac compressor that I can get locally is 830.10 and that's assuming I can even get it, besides. I know we can do better online

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is the CEL on?

I'm just curious. When someone says broken I usually picture physical damage although people also say broken when they mean faulty. How was the 'broken' knock sensor diagnosed? Did the shop find a physically broken sensor during visual inspection? Or did they do the ol' tap the engine block with a hammer while idling and the RPMs didn't drop like it should've with a good knock sensor? Or is your CEL (check engine light) on and they found a fault code for knock sensor?
Assuming the CEL is on and they checked the codes, it can be a PITA retrieving the correct fault codes, especially if you're not familiar with the Mark 2 Supra. I don't remember the entire list but the TSRM has a checklist of criteria that has to be done before it will blink the fault code. Like "throttle plate fully closed" or something like that and "battery above 11 volts", etc. And then counting the blinking light to get the correct code...
CEL is on, but other parts of the instrument panel does not work so not really sure. Also, do not have a reader for the ECU.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is the CEL on?

I'm just curious. When someone says broken I usually picture physical damage although people also say broken when they mean faulty. How was the 'broken' knock sensor diagnosed? Did the shop find a physically broken sensor during visual inspection? Or did they do the ol' tap the engine block with a hammer while idling and the RPMs didn't drop like it should've with a good knock sensor? Or is your CEL (check engine light) on and they found a fault code for knock sensor?
Assuming the CEL is on and they checked the codes, it can be a PITA retrieving the correct fault codes, especially if you're not familiar with the Mark 2 Supra. I don't remember the entire list but the TSRM has a checklist of criteria that has to be done before it will blink the fault code. Like "throttle plate fully closed" or something like that and "battery above 11 volts", etc. And then counting the blinking light to get the correct code...
Can't shake this draft for some reason and wanted to just edit my above post. I will ask the shop to see what they say.

Also, is there a reader you recommend for my car? I know I could do a web search, but I would rather hear from people that know what works best for these. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
AND the A/C compressor looks like available from Toyota

You will need to CONFIRM fitment...

JCC, get the BillyM shift kit here highly recommended!!

Knock sensor is attached to the block, helps the ECU to change timing if knock (pinging) is detected...
Highly recommended is to change the receiver/dryer when working on A/C...

R12 isnt too bad cost wise if your patient and can buy 2-3 cans, but you'll need a EPA 609 license to purchase from most sellers on eBay...or know a guy or shop that has a license...I would also get a can or two of oil conditioner (2 oz of R12 and 2 oz of oil)
"Low brake pedal" could mean pads worn to the point of needing replacement.

Ask specially what the mechanic found, pads worn? needs a new master cylinder? pedal mushy??
AND the A/C compressor looks like available from Toyota

You will need to CONFIRM fitment...

Is the CEL on?

I'm just curious. When someone says broken I usually picture physical damage although people also say broken when they mean faulty. How was the 'broken' knock sensor diagnosed? Did the shop find a physically broken sensor during visual inspection? Or did they do the ol' tap the engine block with a hammer while idling and the RPMs didn't drop like it should've with a good knock sensor? Or is your CEL (check engine light) on and they found a fault code for knock sensor?
Assuming the CEL is on and they checked the codes, it can be a PITA retrieving the correct fault codes, especially if you're not familiar with the Mark 2 Supra. I don't remember the entire list but the TSRM has a checklist of criteria that has to be done before it will blink the fault code. Like "throttle plate fully closed" or something like that and "battery above 11 volts", etc. And then counting the blinking light to get the correct code...
Thank you for all of these and asking the mechanic for some feedback without ticking him off. I dropped the car off on Saturday night and he has really only moved it from where I left it to behind his shop until he can get other repairs done on cars ahead of mine.

He did confirm the knock sensor is physically broken. Asking him the other questions.

I likely need a replacement hood if there are any available in the DFW area preferrably in black. Wishful thinking, I know. haha
 

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The ECU code reader is a paper clip, your eyes, and the know how of this page and followings:
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Part # 89615-22010 kinda expensive...over $200 at the Dealer...

OR for the price try a later sensor from a MA70

89615-30020

eBay $28 bucks
On order.. much appreciated!

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JCC not unusual for any Supra given the age, unless a new/rebuilt engine...

Many of us us Marvel Mystery Oil to help with start up, Ive used it for many many years in all my older vehicles. My old '72 Chevy C20 Pickup lived on that stuff...

At oil change add a pint with 10w40 oil change.
 
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