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This is my project, rotisserie restoration of an 86 MKII.

I wanted to restore my old 85 MKII that I bought it used in 1987. But she add already taste the salt and the slutch and I drove it an other 2 winter. I restored it partially in 1992 and keept it garaged after that.
In 2005-06 i pulled the supra ,4 wheels on the ground in the back of an RV to go camping.
If you don’t want to keep your car for long time these are 2 tings to do. (Winter driving and pull it).
It is even worst if you pull it to go ice racing in winter, but that is double fun
Now you understand why i bought an other one. Found FLO on ebay , from the sunshine state to start restoration from the ground up with a good base.
But for that i needed a low cost rotisserie( BBQ) that i could disassemble after i am done .
I toke the base plate that i fabricated many years off my 85, and fix it to a ¼’’ T6 allu plate, bolted to a common engine stand.
You can se the tab that connect to the tow bar. I had to cut then away later to make the car turn.
Reinforce with 2 pieces of 1’’x 2’’ steel tube .


To get stability, i toke the legs of my mobile engine crane for that, raised the base of the engine stand a bit to get the axel shaft completely level.

The rear T bar is made of a 2’’x4’’ steel tube welded to bracket made of 1’’x 2’’ steel tube that are bolted where the bumper was fix to the car.




An other engine stand for the rear, same model and strength , same modif then the front

The raise enouf the car to center of gravity i had to extend (thanks Jocelyn RedP85) both stand by 15’’



Finally 2 pieces of 2x4 x16’ SPF are bolted on each side of both base to keep them together, when you have to move the shell out of the garage to the paint shop.

Roll it on the concrete or asphalt

Or to go racing

I had a chain block attach for safety, but with the center of gravity found, it turns easily whith a little greace on the shaft and makes the job almost fun.

If you can call it fun to remove that sticky black stuff with out damaging the original factory installed undercoating.
Total cost +/- 500 can $

Be careful if you try to build one, there is no guaranty on both engine stands even if they are over rated.
A the moment you modify a product, your on your own.
Me nether, i dont guarantee it is gone a work, it is HOME MADE



Jacques
 

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Very nice! I wish I had room in my bodyshop bay for a rotisserie for my restorations, I would love to be able to use one.

Don't worry about removing the factory undercoating, just reapply new stuff when you are done. Alot of it is hard and cracked in places and should be replaced anyways.

Good luck on your restoration!
 

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SUBSCRIBED!!

I hope to see a lot more pictures as you continue with the rotisserie restoration. I've been pondering this idea with my supra since I got it but don't have the room or time at the moment.

If it was me, I'd media blast the whole shell and start from bare metal since your into it this far. Sand blasting might be a little harsh on the old metal and cause more work and problems.
 

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I agree whith you guys , sand blast is to agresseive. Soda blasting might be good and dry ice blasting even better but are out of price.Remenber this not a 35000$ Mopar when i am done.
A soda blasting job cost 1500 $to 2000$, reprime whith epoxy the hole car , how much 600$?
Before i strated cleaning the black stuff, i was not sure , but i found this:

Are you sure you whant to sand blast this ?
Jacques
 

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No, you don't want to sandblast, at least not any of the exterior panels because you'll warp them. The other problem with sandblasting a unibody shell is that when it comes time to paint, grains of media tend to get blown out of little cracks and crevices that you were absolutely certain that you'd cleaned ever so thoroughly and land in your fresh paint. You might blast "strategically" on the underside (I did the area around and underneath the battery tray in one Supra), but I'd be afraid to wholesale blast the entire undercarriage and engine bay. If you had the budget, you could take the shell to be dipped and stripped. They have an environmentally friendly process now but its pricey and not available everywhere. Wish I could afford to do that tho with mine. I have been contemplating using something I read about called PeelAway 7 when I finally get around to restoring my Supra. It's supposed to work wonders on our undercoating and be less messy than traditional chemical strippers.
 

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Wow! - that's a serious restoration project :)
 

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Wow - you REALLY want to restore that MK2 :) Can't wait to follow your progress - good luck!

Not to be Debbie Downer, but will you be able to do the interior as nice as they exterior? that seems to be the biggest limitation with jumping into a full restoration on these cars and will probably limit the value of the finished product. Gotta be hawkeyes in the parts for sale section ;)
 

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Wow - you REALLY want to restore that MK2 :) Can't wait to follow your progress - good luck!

Not to be Debbie Downer, but will you be able to do the interior as nice as they exterior? that seems to be the biggest limitation with jumping into a full restoration on these cars and will probably limit the value of the finished product. Gotta be hawkeyes in the parts for sale section ;)
Look at this:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3804603/1992-toyota-celica

This is what a did whith tha celica turbo 3 years ago.
But your right, inetieur is a probleme.
I am in decicion about the dash, keep the analoge cluster or take the digital from my 85.
I have a leather interieur from a 84 , but i personnely prefer materiel. But the 2 materiel i have , all have trace of wear from the sun on the headrest.
1 think at the time, but youare right ,it is a concern.
 

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I agree whith you guys , sand blast is to agresseive. Soda blasting might be good and dry ice blasting even better but are out of price.Remenber this not a 35000$ Mopar when i am done.
A soda blasting job cost 1500 $to 2000$, reprime whith epoxy the hole car , how much 600$?
Before i strated cleaning the black stuff, i was not sure , but i found this:

Are you sure you whant to sand blast this ?
Jacques
Are you talking about the seat belt reinforcement plates there? Be wary of those, they often hide rust underneath. You might want to breeze over some of the threads of the cars I've restored\am restoring as I've dealt with all the same spots you will encounter. These 2 are a good start...

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?54173-Let-s-do-this...-slowly-(Canadian-85P-restore)&highlight=canadian+ptype
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?60985-82L-Bodywork-amp-Slow-Build

Yeah I'm not a big fan of blasting unibody chassis. Not only do you get sand permantly embeded in your body, the media also blasts areas that you can't easily get to to cover the new bare metal. Cars that get blasted often start to rust all over the place in areas they didn't before.

If you need to remove the factory undercoating in places, a combination of chiesling and wire wheeling with a grinder works well. Its just a PITA to do from underneath the car, but you have a rotisserie!

Regular solvent, degreaser, laquer thinner, etc will remove the black tar from the underside easily too. Asphalt undercoating is very easy to dissolve, too easy. Even motor oil will dissolve it, I hate the stuff. I would go with a coating of rubberized undercoating or my preference, black rocker guard on the entire underside when you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are you talking about the seat belt reinforcement plates there? Be wary of those, they often hide rust underneath. You might want to breeze ...

WOW ,you are a master... where you born in Toyota manufacture plan? LOL
I just look at : Table of Contents, and i am amaze.
Later this week end i will look ferther. But tanks any way for the warning
 

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I want! How much? No really how much?

will
 

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you obviously been in Québec before.
answer to supra toy :
Jacques mentionned that it cost him about 500$ in material, with his own free labor !
 
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