Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My A/C currently works, but the compressor is leaking purdy green dye, so I think it's time to revamp the system and need some help since I don't know enough about A/C systems.

The compressor has 134 fittings, so I'm guessing the seals have been replaced, but I'm not willing to take that gamble since I can't find any receipts stating such. The current plan is to replace seals through the system, the drier and the compressor with a Four Seasons 68302 compressor. What else should I replace while I'm in there? Expansion valve? The car has 80k miles and I'm pretty sure all A/C parts are original otherwise.
When I get the system evacuated, should I go ahead and flush it before removing/replacing parts and seals to get all of the old oil out? I'm contemplating just flushing, vacuuming and recharging it myself as I'm one of those that uses any excuse to purchase new tools.

Any insight is helpful here...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,352 Posts
My A/C currently works, but the compressor is leaking purdy green dye, so I think it's time to revamp the system and need some help since I don't know enough about A/C systems.

The compressor has 134 fittings, so I'm guessing the seals have been replaced, but I'm not willing to take that gamble since I can't find any receipts stating such. The current plan is to replace seals through the system, the drier and the compressor with a Four Seasons 68302 compressor. What else should I replace while I'm in there? Expansion valve? The car has 80k miles and I'm pretty sure all A/C parts are original otherwise.
When I get the system evacuated, should I go ahead and flush it before removing/replacing parts and seals to get all of the old oil out? I'm contemplating just flushing, vacuuming and recharging it myself as I'm one of those that uses any excuse to purchase new tools.

Any insight is helpful here...
I had my compressor replaced a few years back and charged with R12 (I think that's the original). About 5 years ago, I took the chance and had the refrigerant changed to R134a. Probably had the drier replaced and flushed. Except for some small leaks, it works like a champ. Our cars have a little fan in front of the condenser that helps during idling. Good luck! Mine blows cold, cold air on the new refrigerant using the original evaporator and condenser.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,168 Posts
I have read that the R-12 seals/O rings were not compatible with 134-A. Read all that you can and also use You Tube for tips on an A/C conversion.
I do have a 134-A bottle charger that I will never use. The oil is an important part of the conversion!
A/C is not really required in Seattle.

The BIG pusher fan is a recommended addition into your system!!!!!! The little WEENIE fan is quite lame. I bought a De Rail that kicks ass.$100. Use the same wiring .Same relay.

This photo is relevant.NC? REQUIRED!!!!
Big fan=good air flow in traffic. Be cool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
New compressor, drier and expansion valve should be here tomorrow. New O-rings and AC belt are already here, but I haven't ordered a flush kit, refrigerant or vacuum pump/AC kit yet. No rush since it doesn't look like the car will be leaving the garage anytime soon due to weather. I need to get the system evacuated before doing work on it and we're between ice storms with lots of rain otherwise. For obvious reasons, my car doesn't see rain, unless it's looking out the garage windows.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,168 Posts
Don't mess around, just get a 10" or 12" pusher fan to replace that little "fan". I used the same mounts as the little fan? No ,it is all a custom install. It is a squeeze, but it fits. I will also use it in stop and go traffic, but I have it manually wired into the A/C button. A/C compressor is long gone. So is the condenser. That is how the little fan is mounted to. The crap behind it was eye-opening. Leaves and dirt but not many pine needles. My Supra lives outside under a very large pin oak tree under a cheap-ass canopy that FAILED again in the recent snow storm. Dammit.

I needed more flow to the A/C vents, when it was working, so I added a one 12 V. squirrel-cage fan inside the out put vents. I just wired 'em into the fuse box heater fan 12 V. power. The only place it would fit is the one that would cool the family jewels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've got some spare Flex-A-Lite fans from a previous Celica. I'll see how performance goes without the additional fan initially. My stock squirrel cage fan is quite strong still, so I'm not worried about moving air around inside the car, though I do like the idea of a nice draft "down there", haha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
After a trip to the dealership yesterday, I think I've got all parts, tools, etc for doing the AC, but that never seems to work out in the end.

Again, this is a working (weak, but cool) system that's leaking pretty badly but was last recharged in 2019, so not horribly so. With my newfound UV flashlight, most all of the original compressor glows pretty neon. Otherwise, a little leakage is seen on a fitting in front of the condenser.


Basic plan of attack: Put a belt back on the compressor, attach the new gauge set to see if there's any charge remaining since I haven't used it in the past 6+ months.

If there's still pressure, I'll take it somewhere to get it reclaimed. If not, I'll open her up.

Remove piece by piece, and flush all lines until flush is clean.

Replace O-rings on reinstallation, with a little Nylog Blue as lube for good measure. A little Nylog on threaded pieces as well for a good seal.

Remove and replace the compressor. More Nylog with seals and threads there too.

Pull the dash/glovebox and get the evaporator out. Inspect with UV light for any leaks in this area. Flush it, and clean any debris around it so it's breathing well again.

Edit: While this is out, I plan on blowing some compressed air down the evaporator drain plug to make sure there's nothing blocking the line. Last thing I want is nasty smelling, wet carpet.

Assuming no leaks, new O-rings, new expansion valve and new pressure switch, along with more lubing/sealing.

Put it all back together with old drier still in place. Pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks.
Assuming that's good, I'll replace the drier and seal it back up. Vacuum test again to make sure.

If we're good there, time to charge it up. I'm planning on distributing a little oil in each part (measuring as I go) so there's already some through the system before recharging. I'm also planning on manually turning the compressor a decent bit to distribute stuff before actually starting it up.

Currently planning on running ester oil w/ UV dye and Envirosafe Industrial 134a Replacement.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,168 Posts
I think that you have a GOOD plan!

As a reminder to all people who own a vehicle with A/C. It's important to use the A/c at least once a month to prevent the seals from drying out. Use in warm mode. Some cars automatically kick in the compressor during the defrost mode! You may be able to hear the compressor clutch engage.

One more tip:
In the warm weather when you are using your air conditioner, turn OFF the AC a few blocks from where you plan to park to help dry out the evaporator. A small trickle of water may appear under the car if you forget to do that little trick. That moisture in the evaporator will allow mold to grow and it does smell bad.

Who? wants a free bottle of R- 134-a. Local pick up in Seattle. PM if interested. You may need an adapter to make this work on your system. I won't give this to a ROOKIE.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Who in the heck puts only one R134a adapter on the compressor?? I'm looking at you Antwerpen Toyota. Now I assume this means I have 134 in the system and not 12, but who knows?



The good news is that I didn't need to know. After connecting the gauges, both read 0, so there wasn't anything in the system anyway.

Just in case, I donned some eye protection and gloves and cracked open one of the lines. Nope, nothing in there.

Removing the compressor was a quick process. 14mm sockets to loosen the AC belt idler and then remove the belt. Unplug the single wire on top. A 22mm wrench to loosen the high side port, a 27mm wrench to loosen the low side port and a 12mm ratcheting wrench to loosen the four mounting bolts. The top two bolts should be removed first (top or bottom access for these pretty easily. The bottom two bolts should be done last from underneath so that when you get the last one out, you're already under there to lower the compressor out. The compressor dropped right out of the bottom with little issue.



I'm pretty sure this is the original compressor as it came from the factory. Going through my stash of receipts, I see nothing about AC until the aforementioned recharge a few years ago by the previous owner.

Beyond that, I didn't have much time, so I just took pictures of all the lines, fittings and component brackets on the front of the car for reference later. I loosened a few more hoses in front of the condenser as well using the same 22mm and 27mm wrenches from the compressor uninstall. This whole thing will be done as I get a few minutes here and there. The car is mostly a garage queen now, so no rush.

Interesting tidbit: If you ever wonder about how thoroughly you wash your hands, use a UV flashlight on your hands after handling an AC compressor covered in leaking UV dye. I did a decent job washing, but missed one little spot near my wrist and in the corner of one fingernail. Second wash fixed that right up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
(4) 6mm Allen heads to remove the ports from the compressor. They were too tight to break free with a standard Allen set, so I grabbed my 3/8" drive Allen set. The compressor is an ungainly, awkward shape to hold, so I put two 4" screws through the mounting holes and attached it to my workbench. Popped right out that way. It might've been easier to loosen these on the car, but my knuckles still have all of their skin, so this might've been the better option.





Looking inside the freshly removed ports left me relieved. Very clean. Clearly no sealant had been used in the system thankfully!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've got more updates, but in the meantime, can anyone help with the evaporator unit removal? All bolts/nuts per the TSRM are removed, the drain is removed, the firewall grommet is removed, and all wiring is detached. The thing is quite loose and moves around a good bit, but I can't get it to drop out. The stupid bracket in the red oval below is in the way. Do I need to take the center console out to get that bracket out of the way, or will the whole box drop or pivot around in some other way? It seems like I'm catching on the refrigerant line stubs running through the firewall mostly otherwise.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Screw it, found it easier to take out the center console and remove the bracket that was in my way. Evaporator core came out nicely that way. Good news is that there wasn't much leaf or pine needle debris in there at all since it's a low-mileage garage kept car. Bad news:





Anyone know where I can get an evaporator core? I can't seem to find any for our cars online.

Edit: Denso 476-0079 on national backorder, but I found one on eBay. Should be here later this week.

Update: No stock on the eBay seller, so I'm back to my search. No evaporator cores available OEM or aftermarket currently.

Four Seasons 54151 out of stock everywhere.
Denso 476-0079 out of stock everywhere
UAC EV 3250AC out of stock everywhere
NAPA TEM 288289 out of stock everywhere
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Heck, here's a whole list I've found of compatible evaporator cores. All out of stock or discontinued.
UAC # EV3250AC
AC Delco # 1562130
Autocomp Technologies # 503250
Compressor Works # 775126
Four Seasons # 54151
Frigette # 249314
Global Parts Distributors # 4711263
Omega # 2723250
Ready-Aire/Proliance # 6794
Toyota/Lexus # 8850114
Toyota/Lexus # 88501-14190
Toyota/Lexus # 88501-14191
Toyota/Lexus # 88501-14192
Toyota/Lexus # 88501-14200
Visteon # 730250
Oreilly Auto Parts # 54151
Advance Auto Parts # T54151
NAPA # TEM288289
NAPA # 288289
Ranshu # 592314
Trad Automotive # E349
Trad Automotive # 4000176
 

·
POTATO
Joined
·
17,326 Posts
Nervousness intensifies at the amount of stuff being discontinued for us lately 😬
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've got an email in to Four Seasons to see if they're discontinued, or just out of stock. Hoping they'll run a batch if nothing else since there's no other competition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Many thanks to @jemattson18 for the used evaporator core since new ones aren't available, OEM or otherwise. Flushed it out, cleaned it up a little bit and put some pressure in it to the best of my ability. Only got 60psi or so in it, but didn't seem to be leaking at all.
I ran into an issue with the Four Seasons expansion valve (OEM no longer available). In the high pressure side, there was a threaded portion inside that wouldn't allow the high side line to fit in there:



Based on pictures, the Denso replacement would also have the same issue. A 19/64" drill bit took care of the threads in quick order. Since the O-ring is the actual seal, there shouldn't be any issues.

Found some adhesive insulation at Lowe's to try to mimic the original pipe insulation:



Before and after. Old, original core and the core from James with the new parts. Pictures were useful to match the original configuration and routing of stuff.







My original one was nowhere near as dirty as most on here, but it was leaking, so off it goes. I'm gonna try to test the assembled unit for pressure again before reinstallation. Hopefully I can start putting this thing back together soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Denso 476-0079 Evaporator Core just showed up in stock today, so I ordered a new one!

Otherwise, the whole AC system is clean, dry and currently pressurized with CO2 while awaiting the new core. I've still got a slow leak that I haven't been able to find, so hopefully this will fix it. If not, I'll oil it, dye it, charge it and look for the leak with the UV light since the leak detector I'm using isn't finding any more leaks under the hood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Great photos! Soapy water to find leak! Start at compressor and just follow all lines. Squirt everything along way.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top