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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a short write up of my ADDCO front sway bar install. Im not even gonna cover the rear since its so easy to do it would be a waste of time. I did the install once and had to remove it and re-do it again due to the fact that my crank pulley on my 7mgte was barely touching the sway bar. So I removed it and installed spacers(washers) to lower the sway bar. and sanded and re-painted the stuff.


All you need is a ½” wrench and socket for the end links. A 14mm socket an a 12mm socket and a 22mm wrench. Extension and other misc. tools.

This pic is the parts I removed from the supra along with the bar and end links. I figured I’d sand and paint them since they were out.





I had to grind the corners off the bracket so they would fit.



see where the screw driver is pointing. They will hit there if you don’t grind them


these next pics are of the washers I used for spacers. I only needed an 1/8” to clear the crank pulley. You guys with 5m’s may not have this issue since you use the rear motor mount holes. The 7m transplant uses to forward holes. Although I wouldnt think this would make a difference but IDK.

I used washers since I had them laying around. The big one I put between the bushing and the frame. The 2 small ones I put between the frame and the bracket. This spaced it down the 1/8” I needed.




heres a pic of the clearance I gained from touching to cleared.


heres a side pic of the bushing and bracket. See the washers in there?


there are no directions on how to put the end link bushings on. This way worked for me.
The Phillips screw driver simulates the “control arm” and the wooden handle pick simulates the “sway bar”. This makes it fit just right. Note where the little spacer is and how the bushing and washers are laid out. If I have this wrong please someone tell me. And yes, I know that the nut isnt tightend on the end link.


here a few things I had to do for this to work. 1st off the sway bar ends are to wide to fit through the factory bracket so you have to grind or notch it out. I had to take a cut-off wheel and cut out more due to the fact the bar would hit the bracket with the washer/spacers. Notice the clearance between the bottom of the sway bar and the bottom of the hole I “opened” up. Look at the 2nd pic to see how much I cut out of the factory bracket. They went from round holes to "D" shaped holes.



few extra pics




So, in order to do this install. Just remove the 2 skinny arms that go from the control arms to the bracket the sway bar goes through and remove those 2 brackets the sway bar goes through and the 2 endlinks and 2 bushing mounts it will come right out. I dont know WTF all these brackets are called and im too lazy to look it up. if anyone wants to say what theyre are...go for it.

I am by no means an expert and I didn’t even open the TSRM. This is just how I did it and im sure there are better ways of doing it. So this isn’t the way it has to be done. Just my way.

Maybe this will help ease the pain of one of you guys’s install.

Jake=ME
Wicked Felina=Supra(J.I.C. youre wondering)
 

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I haven't gotten around to installing mine yet but was it really necessary to cut a hole that large? I'm talking about the "D". You could in theory just use a small cutting wheel and try and keep it circular?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used a small rasp to enlarge the hole at 1st. the metal is thick for that type of tool for material removal. I got sick of messing with it so i broke out the cut off wheel. I suppose u could do a little at a time to get it just right but i wanted a little extra room for flex and didnt want to try it and it not work and remove it again and reinstall try again and remove..blah blah blah...i removed it twice that was enough for me...to each thier own.
 

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Just admit it you messed up with the hole
haaaaa lol im joking jake
great job
now more pics of that motor
 

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I haven't gotten around to installing mine yet...
Yeah - me too, and I bet there's more - maybe this spring.

Jake - thks for the how-to. Nice work cleaning, and painting the brackets etc.
 

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i just did this last week. you pretty much got it down good. enlarging the holes is a pain because i tried doing it a little at a time trying to keep it perfect, and when i thought i had it good and went to install it, the sway bar was rubbing and then you gotta take it all apart and try again. a real pain in the ass after you've painted everything. one thing ill add is that if your doing this, now is a great time to change those stabilizer/strut bar bushings out for some nice poly ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
has me wondering if its even worth buying them after having to deal with all the bs installation hmmmmmmmmm
depends..i could have it all apart in 20-30 mins (20 nuts and bolts)and back in 45-60 mins after ive done it a couple times...but when you have more than xxxRWHP like Wicked felina, I will take anything I can get to help keep this girl under control. She is a hand full!

its really basic...if you can remove bolts and re-install them..thats it...plus a tad bit of cutting..ive done all the hard work for you...if you live up north...get out there 3 days ahead of time and hit every nut and bolt with PB blaster or WD-40 everyday for 3 days..it will make it easier on you.

you can do it Frankieg!!

and good idea...I need new bushings everywhere,
 

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Many thanks for the writeup. Definitely saved some redos. I spent 3 hours cutting, grinding, painting, and waiting, but the install took very little time since I got it all right with the pointers. I used 1/8 metal bar as a spacer instead of washers. I got a little over 1/4 inch clearance to the 7M pulley.

-John
 

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I did it myself now, and yes this is a good method. I didnt take the strut rods off which just made a headache though, I had to jack each lower control arm to even out the strut rod to get the bar on and off (trying to save time not worth it), so I do recommend removing those as well like Jake has done. Its going to save you a lot of messing around.

As for the hole, I made a straight line notch to fit the flat end of the bar through, tried making it circular with an angle grinder and that didn't work, so instead I made a "slot" to get the bar though. Really the only reason to make this hole larger is just to fit the flat end where the end-links bolt go through the bracket.
 

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So are there any other members here who had to install spacers for clearance on their 7MGTE swapped cars? After looking through a few different threads, most people seem to mention needing to grind the sway-bar openings along with the brackets but no mention from others on needing to clear the engine. Just curious on if I should just assume I will have clearance issues without washers or if this is a rare instance than only ABQMK2 has experienced so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another way to get clearance would be to put spacers under the motor mounts and lift the engine an 1/8" or so. Ive lifted jeep engines 1" before with now issues if anyone with the 7mgte swap wants to try that route.

JJ...i would use a piece of barstock over the washers, i only had washers that day. i will swap them out for solid barstock sometime.

all you can do is put it on and see if your pulley will touch it, i will put money on it that it will. go to home depot or lowes and buy a piece of stock and use your sway bar bushing braket as a template to trace it on the stock and cut and drill your holes and youre done.
 

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Thanks for the advice. Yeah, I suppose the only way for me to know for sure is by test fitting....uhhh. Oh well. The benefits of having the Addco sway bars are much greater than not.
 

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The bar made a big difference on my Celica convertible.

Unfortunately, I am hearing a loud and annoying squeal after every bump, even when pushing the front-end down you can hear and feel it squeal coming up legs

I suspect I need to have it greased, will this be an ongoing thing?

Or will I need to resort to an Energy Suspension bushing with a zerk fitting?

Anyone experience this or any other way to avoid the squeal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i always put the grease that comes with urathane bushings on the inside of the bushing or where ever you have contact with a surface that moves before installation..I dont remember ADDCO including this with the sway bars though..i had some left over from my truck bushings and used it...it seems to last a long time and stays right on the bushing...give that a try?

it looks like vaseline but its a grease for the bushings..HTH.
 

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i always put the grease that comes with urathane bushings on the inside of the bushing or where ever you have contact with a surface that moves before installation..I dont remember ADDCO including this with the sway bars though..i had some left over from my truck bushings and used it...it seems to last a long time and stays right on the bushing...give that a try?

it looks like vaseline but its a grease for the bushings..HTH.

Wow, didn't know they had that. Ok, I'll try to find out more about the grease, how long have you had the sway bar installed?

Too bad, none came with the packages. :eekfacepalm:
 
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