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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I think I've developed a lifter knock or worked a little play into a rocker arm. Are they adjustable on the 5mge with the valve covers off? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Eric
 

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No there is no adjustment. The valve lash is taken up by hydraulic lifters that wear out and need replacing when they get old.
 

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there are a lot of other posts just like this, could be a stuck lifter.....do a search for valve adjusment they'll give ya a bunch of tips for it......
 

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If you get desperate I just swapped a new head onto a 5m-ge and have a set of used lifters (one was a bit noisy at idle) and your welcome to them if you want to pay the shipping from Ontario Canada.
 

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When my mechanic (cousin) and I rebuilt the head we were thinking about getting new lash adjusters.. They were increadibly gunky like whoa!! But we just decided to take em' apart and clean em' out with carb cleaner and we polished it with a dremel.. They shined to beautiful.. The only hard part of doing so is removing the metal ring that holds it in place.. We used a flathead to remove em' *carefully and from there we just soaked it in carb cleaner and remove all the excess gunk.. We put it back together and again the ring was the hardest part to get on.. When you do put it back on though make sure to clamp em' on tight by holding it with a clamp and lightly tapping the grove in so that it's fitted tightly..
I was going to take pictures but my cousin allready slapped it in.. My car works fine, alot more smoother acceleration..
-Melly
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies, I don't know what I should do at this point. I by no means have a serious knock and it only really exists at idle, it's just so annoying and I can't stand those noises. What should I do? My 5mge only has 125k on it , was recently apart and examined and looked really good internally, and runs like a champ. I think I just have a colgged lash adjuster that I picked up after a 1000 mile drive to West Virginia(should have changed the oil before I left instead of after I got there because I had 2100 on that oil before I left :mad:

Anyway, what should I do now? I've been told to drain a quart of oil, then put in a quart of ATF and run it for a little while and then change the oil right afterwards to try to unclog it. If that doesn't work, I guess I was going to try those other oil detergents, and if they fail to work, I guess it's on to more drastic measures like head work. That gets to be all or nothing then, and I want to go turbo anyway...so what the hell, why not 7mgte then?

82MKIILtype,
I really appreciate the offer, did you buy that head from Keith Emery? I was going to buy that! :cry: Anyway, I don't really want to take the head apart, I'm not very mechanically inclined and don't have the space to get into that anyway living in an apartment without a garage right now, if anything I'd take my head to someone to rebuild or buy a rebuilt one from someone in the future. I wanted that rebuilt one for when I go 5mgte next summer.

What should I do to try to get rid of my slight knock? It usually doesn't knock at cold start, then I drive it in town and by the time I'm at work, it'll knock at idle, then stop knocking if I rev the engine to say 2000 rpms or so. It tends to knock more when warm than cold, and more at idle than at higher rpms. At this point it's inconsistent, but it definitely knocks at times. Again, any help is greatly appreciated.

Eric
 

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Run a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil for about 500 Mi. of easy driving. Drain oil, and change over to a high mileage oil (Castrol) with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. If your motor is really sludged up, the Mystery Oil can break up unough sludge to block up the oil filter, so carry a spare. I had that happen on an old Ford 5.0 once. You will know it if that happens, all the valves will start clacking under acceleration.
 

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Marvel should do the trick cleaning out the motor, and be sure to have a spare oil filter just in case. My former '72 Chevy PU has 175k + on the original 350 motor that I always used Marvel in.

I usually add a pint right before an oil change (if low) in my Sup and current Cheby PU.

I would recommend 10/40 weight oil over 10/30 unless you live where temps get in the teens or less during winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will give it a try and report back, thanks...you guys are great.

Eric
 

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The reason I recommended the high mileage oil, and the Lucas oil stabilizer, is that the clean out can also cause oil leaks. I did that with mine when I cleaned it up and changed to synthetic oil. It started leaking quite badly. The High mileage oil and Lucas oil stabilizer stopped all the leaks. Cleaning an old motor is at cross purposes with keeping it sealed, but is necessary to keep the lifters in good shape unless you tear it down and replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah, will go with that. I have Monday/Tuesday off, will see if I can get this worked out. I'm trying to get a little text attached to the bottom of my profile, if it's not up on this message, how do you do that?

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ah, will go with that. I have Monday/Tuesday off, will see if I can get this worked out. I'm trying to get a little text attached to the bottom of my profile, if it's not up on this message, how do you do that?

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just thought I'd give an update...I finally got my car out on the highway and the knock...or clogged lash adjuster seems to have worked itself clean. I just changed the oil two weeks ago and haven't had it on the highway since then so the new oil must have finally circulated itself through. The knock has been gone now for three days. When I'm finally a little low on oil I will add some of the Marvel Mystery Oil I picked up...just to clean everythying out, but I'm so relieved...thanks again guys!

Eric
 
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