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I glad someone, and maybe a few more , have this kit actually working. I haven't got into it yet, but certainly have hopes of success. The only big concern I have is the occasional bits of info I get regarding the full throttle condition of the ECU. There was another thread somewhere stating that regardless of how the SS unit is manipulating the MAF signals, that at wide open throttle the ECU goes to preset settings, and with the increased air flow from the intake/MAF, this results in a lean condition ? Seems I here reports of a lean condition more than too rich (at least with full throttle).
Mark seems to feel that 90% of the tuning can be done by the owner just driving, adjusting, driving, adjusting. I asked about dyno tuning and he felt that was only usefull for full throttle settings. But if the SS unit can't alter the ECU output signals at full throttle, then we get no increases in max hp/torque, but perhaps the hp/torque curves are just fatter ?
Anyway, it will be interesting to tune :)

Don L.
 

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Don,
The lean condition at WOT will only go away with larger injectors. Then use the SS MAF to lean them out everywhere else.
Jamie
 

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Thanks Jamie! At least there exists an option to WOT lean. After I hooked up the SS a/f gauge, seems I'm running at 2-3 lights from full lean, alternating (guess that means the closed loop mode?) Never gets to middle lights. Thats with the stock AFM and 210cc injectors. I've thought about going to bigger injectors, something in the 250cc range, but since I barely pass smog now, little concerned. My previoius dyno sheets have always resulted in a/f numbers of approx 14:1 at WOT. Not sure if I'm just flowing lots of air or something in fuel systems is not adequate. I may look at the stock pressure regulator, not sure what my upgrade options are for that though. Hunting for hp sure is fun eh ?

Don L.
 

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I unhooked my SS until i can buy a WideBand O2 sensor for tuning purposes.. but

I still go way lean according to my O2 sensor now.. so its back to the drawing board as to why that is.
I replaced every possible thing i can think of.. rich when i start it up.. lean in about 15 minutes and my check engine light comes on
 

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Rich when you start it up makes sense. Cold start injector will make it rich for the first little while. Also, ECU will richen mixture when water thermo sensor shows that engine is cold. When warmed up, it should go back to stoich.

Now you need to find out why it goes lean once it is warmed up.
Keep us all informed of what you find.
 

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What about using the old potentiometer trick on the ECU wire for the temp sensor? I tried it on my Solo1 car and it definately makes things rich. Maybe that will work for this as well. I'll have to dig up the info on the pontentiometer deal. Don L. told me about it.
"a potentiometer (a linear variable resister) 2.5K ohms, 2 watt
capacity, and
spliced it in series with the thermostat sending unit wire that goes
to the
ecu. On my car it is a light green wire.
I splice it in near the ecu, behind the glovebox, mounted the
potentiometer
in the glovebox with a dial knob. This supposedly "fools" the ecu
into
thinking the motor is colder than it is, I think allowing the motor
to not
only get more fuel, but maybe allowing more ignition advance (not
sure about
the ig. advance theory). "

Thats a copy and paste deal from Don's email.
 

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I haven't gotten around to doing the SS install yet. I 'm waiting on getting the smog stuff cleared up. EGR isn't working properly. Got a new one on he way. Then I have some time to tinker before the next smog check comes around. 8)
 

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As i understand it (and very possibly incorrectly) the engine goes closed loop shortly after startup, even before it's up to operating temp. If so, the water temp enrichment should only occur at wot. Don L. found, iirc from past discussions, that the cold water mod would not enrich enough at hi rpm wot but would at lo rpm, implying that the required inj duty cycle couldn't be maintained at hi rpm cause the period (cycle time) is too short at hi rpm. This agrees with Jamies contention that the only fix is larger injectors which require a shorter duty cycle. Does this sound reasonable?
 

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got a few q's about this, im possibly buying it off karaki;
im gonna use a 96 tbird's maf, now, are larger injectors are a requirement?

also would a stock 7m-gte's injectors (in a 7m-gte) be alright? im may have found a 7m-gte donor, but im hung on the fence on weather to pick it up.

im not sure what open and closed loop is yet, plz explain?

and what injectors come with the 5m, 7m,7mgte? what car do i get 440's from?
 

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got a few q's about this, im possibly buying it off karaki;
im gonna use a 96 tbird's maf, now, are larger injectors are a requirement?

also would a stock 7m-gte's injectors (in a 7m-gte) be alright? im may have found a 7m-gte donor, but im hung on the fence on weather to pick it up.

im not sure what open and closed loop is yet, plz explain?

and what injectors come with the 5m, 7m,7mgte? what car do i get 440's from?
 

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no larger injectors are not a requirment. But if this thing works out you should be able to fuel tune different sized injectors to work. 7mgte injectors are a different kind then the ones the 5m and 7mge use. If you actually need bigger injectors, think about AE86 GTS ones, 210cc, or 7mge ones, 295cc. I take it your going turbo
 

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SupraFiend said:
no larger injectors are not a requirment. But if this thing works out you should be able to fuel tune different sized injectors to work. 7mgte injectors are a different kind then the ones the 5m and 7mge use. If you actually need bigger injectors, think about AE86 GTS ones, 210cc, or 7mge ones, 295cc. I take it your going turbo
i have an 86.5 auto non targa available to me for $300 and like Ive said b4, 220 horse is better then ~165 or if i can find a cheaper 7mgte. id prefer to use it on a 7m-ge.
 
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