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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hate screwing around with flaring my brake lines, especially since I'm running an in-line hydraulic e-Brake. Is it a horrendously stupid idea to just switch to full SS Braided soft-lines instead of hard-lines from the e-brake back to the distribution block?
 

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Yes, soft lines flex, even braided ones, lots of soft line=lots of flex=bad brakes.
 

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my automotive engineering professor whom is a PEng and used to run a formula ford race team, then formula 2000, told me that "hard lines have no place on a race car".

he argued that Hard lines create 50% more failure points because they must be used in conjunction with flex line to join the hard line to calipers, to allow suspension movement. Consider that every joint is a failure point and should be reduced whenver possible. Hardlines can fatigue stress fracture under high line pressures. they can also be collapsed in many situations (debris, a mis-placed jack etc.). then there's the added problem of hand-made flares being inaccurate.

I've had shitty luck with brake lines aswell, mainly because every single flaring kit you find out there is literally junk. usually the vice they give you is not strong enough and deflects when tightened. the mandrels are also crap.

it's not a bad idea to run all flex lines, IMO....they're just expensive.
 

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Steve, I'm not sure which you said was better? Braided soft or hard is better?

I am having too much pedal travel and this summer I will fix the damn system, if its the last thing i do.

I'm thinking about re-bleeding then replacing the Master. And if that doesn't do it, replacing all the hard and soft lines on the car.
 

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What if the braided lines where teflon on the inside? I have a teflon braided power steering hose and it holding the pressure. But then again ATF isn't corrosive like brake fluid.
 

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Steve, I'm not sure which you said was better? Braided soft or hard is better?

I am having too much pedal travel and this summer I will fix the damn system, if its the last thing i do.

I'm thinking about re-bleeding then replacing the Master. And if that doesn't do it, replacing all the hard and soft lines on the car.
He liked the idea of a braided soft line running from master cylinder, directly to the caliper.

I edited my post to make it clearer.
 

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That sounds prohibitively expensive. Ive replaced all the soft lines on my car and upgrade the fronts to Q45s... IMHO if you have an excessively mushy pedal its probably due to either bad master cylinder, leaks somewhere, or air in the system. Braided stainless are nice, but are not the silver bullet.

Bleed the system well, and if your still having problems check to make sure the MC is not worn out and still holding pressure..

If your still not happy... replace your soft lines with braided.. replacing your hard lines will be painful.
 

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Oh, and more details on your hydraulic ebrake..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I used the KSport Hydraulic e-Brake, installed where the normal e-brake would go.

Things to note:

  1. THIS IS AN INLINE HYDRAULIC e-Brake!!! - This means it is a potential failure point of your ENTIRE braking system. It is placed inline, between the line that runs from the master cylinder towards the rear brake distribution block. If you don't check, re-check, triple check, and perform REGULAR INSPECTIONS, you can wreck your car and kill people, including yourself.
  2. You can't really keep the center console and use this hydraulic ebrake, just won't fit. Unless you want to completely destroy/permanantly modify the console and NOT USE the parking brake feature.
  3. You have to clock the e-brake about the 1 o'clock position to get a good pull on it, unless you want to fabricate a custom mount to weld to the transmission tunnel. Because the e-brake bracket has slotted mounting holes you can actually use I think 2 or 3 of the stock e-brake holes.
  4. I don't recommend this for the average joe Daily Driver car. I feel I'm an exception because of the RETARDED amount of maintenance I perform on it. I'm under it WEEKLY.
  5. I love it it's awesome, gotta yank kinda hard to get the back tires to lock. Dual Piston calipers would definitely help this, larger rotors too.
  6. Occasionally it doesn't let pressure fully bleed back up to the master cylinder, pumping / pressing the brake pedal once or twice will fix this. It is very noticable, and unless you're clueless you won't drive long with it like this. I have notice this to be worse in freezing temperatures, not sure how it relates/correlates.
  7. Have not noticed accelerated brake pad wear, however I primarly use it as a parking brake, as I'm away from the drifting circuit now.
  8. Depending on your sanctioning body this brake may render your car NON-LEGAL for track use, as most rulebooks (for SOLO etc) seem to dictate that additional braking systems be standalone from regular braking systems, see note Number 1.
  9. Depending on the Sanctioning body/tech inspector they may rule that having brake lines inside the vehicle is a violation, and not certify you to run. Technically it says they're not to be in the vehicle, however I've witnessed this to mean not running the entire brake line in the car. Pro Am Drift / Formula D cars all utilize braking systems like this. (With hydraulic brake lines routed into the cabin however they ARE Standalone systems NOT piggyback.)

I had a crap ton of pictures from the NIGHTMARE of the install, but I can't seem to find them.



Found the pictures:







Why you should ALWAYS use Anti-Sieze on your spark plugs.



 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BTW, with an Additional caliper it IS possible to use this with a remote reservoir, and run an additional line back to the extra caliper (which is what the professional Formula D guys have setup).
 

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Sweet. Thanks for the pics.
 
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