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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys...

Ive had a 'slow leak' below my bathroom for a while. I decided to call in a local outfit that seemed to be well respected. I know the owner too....neighborhood friend type.

Well, they found the culprit, a cracked, 90 y/o pipe. All the other pipes have been replaced, except for the piece that failed, the T and the vent. Looked like the T had a crack...and I assumed that was to be replaced. They had to bust out a good section of the dining room roof and adjoining wall. OK cool, replace it...do whatever it takes to make it right. ~1000 bill plus I pay for fixing the holes. (I wont pick on the way they slopped up my place)

As they cut out the old section...the vent stack (that goes out the roof) moves down a few inches.....turns out that was a 2 piece run...and the joint was faulty. The 7' run of 90 y/o cast iron came crashing down into the dining room. Fortunately, he had a piece of wood set up to take the impact if it were to fall. It did a little damage that I can easily fix. Oh well, not their fault. they had to rip out the closet fully to get to that 'bell'

I leave for work...my gf is here to see them out. I get home to find this:


Im no plumber....but that justr doesnt look right. After cleaning up the mess for 6 straight hours...my gf takes a shower, uses the can and brushes her teeth. I hear a drip. Look up, and see this:


Hmm.

Are these guys quacks? Please help! I just want the damn job done right.
 

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You can see in the second pic how the pipe on the left is poking into the rubber seal. I would call them back out and tell them to try again. Since the pipes don't seem to be parallel they may have to do more work to get them lined up. Like cutting the pipes and attaching PVC pipe to line the two halves up. Possible a wider seal would do the trick, but I doubt it. This is an acceptable repair for an exhaust line. But they didn't do a good job. Doesn't plumbing suck.
 

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I'm not a plumber but I do work alot with irrigation pipes. IMO that is some shitty ass work done to your pipes, I'd call them back and have them do it right. Is that pipe going from cast iron to cast iron? or cast iron to PVC pipe?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cast to cast. Seems like the used the wrong fitting. I can buy a 15 or 30deg AN fitting for those problems.......Id assume a plumber has similar options. :ggrrrr:
 

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COMPRESSION FITTING sold at plumbing stores go find one and use it lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are there compression fittings large enough for a soil pipe? What would a real plumber use for that style pipe?
 

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having done a lot of general repair work including plumbing on multiple houses over the past few years i would suggest running a length of 4in(i believe that should be the drain size) schedule 40 pvc with a rubber coupling at each end to attach to the cast iron if there is any left that is still good or has already been replaced and not leaking.

plumbing is not a hard job. takes a little work sometimes but overall is not hard. and they overcharge for everything. no offense if youre a plumber. i know its a shitty job. pun intended. lol.

if i was in pennsylvania i would come do what i could to help ya out but im quite a bit farther south. lol.

if you have any questions about anything just message me and i'll do what i can to walk ya through whatever you need.

-Danny
 

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For that price it should have been all new PVC.

I do high end property repairs and maintenance in million dollar homes and I've seen some bad work.
Doing it right the first time gets me called back.
I recently had the same type repair that the home owner called a plumber to fix after I located the leak.
It was a 3" waste line from an upstairs bathroom that broke inside the wall area along side their fireplace (where the chimney goes up & past the 2nd floor).
Plumber was called after I cut the access holes in the wall and found the break in the pipe.
They sent four guys out to do a simple repair and it took 2 hours.
They paid over $700 for those 2 hours and the pipe broke again two weeks later.
I had already patched the walls up and painted by then but had to tear it open again to find the same pipe broken right above the repair.
The plumber wasn't going to do the fix for free so I was allowed to do it this time.
I did the patch in an hour ($65 per) by myself and have been called back every time before any other "pro" gets a chance.
Like stated above, Plumbing is easy. It can be dirty work but simple to do.
You can tighten up that strap clamp and should stop the leaking.
If you think the arrows point to a crack, that's a no.
The line is a casting seam. Those pros are responsible for their work.
Call them back and they will only tighten the strap.
They never repair walls they tear out and they tear out big holes.
The damage they "caused" by allowing the vent pipe to fall was their fault.
That's where experience shows who the pro really is. They should have known better.
Did you have your roof repaired recently? The vent pipe might have been subject to a pressure force of some type from above that started this leak.
I do it all, and I've seen some stupid workers doing stupid things for big pay.
I only wish I could do all the repairs, but I couldn't find anyone to hire as a helper.
So any other company is stuck with workers with little or bad experience that they have to trust to do it right.
Sorry to see it was done that way, for that price call them back and ask for the real plumber or the boss to come see the work that was done.
 

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I used a rubber union and clamps (got them at either lowes or wal-mart) when mine was leaking through the ceiling, hasn't leaked again to this day.
 

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Isn't 60+yr old plumbing fun!?! (Just busted up and replaced some cast drain/vent shiz in my place last week, except I used some ratchet straps to guarantee my vent lines didn't fall through my house. ...just thought I was being overly cautious, guess not.)

Looking at that first picture, first thing I see is the fitting on the right is kinked and on cast piping that won't seal without help.

Second pic, that's not a crack, but a casting mark (all of mine have them, and I did the same damn thing when I first saw them).

You could open the rubber hoseclamp fitting up and squeeze a bead of "goop" inside the rubber fitting, retighten and give it 24hrs if you can. ...but since you paid for it, I'd have those suckers back out and lay it out real simple for them "I paid you 1g, you replaced one piece of pipe, and introduced a couple new ways for my system to leak, would you be happy if I came and did the same at your house?"

All that said, I had some roots in my line to the road (all old-growth hardwood lot) called the only folks open on a Sunday, a father/son team came out, busted out a cast cap, spent 4hrs running a 4hp 150ft rooter through, a pressure washer chaser nozzle, used a locator and let me mark the location and depth of my drain to the road, installed a PCV threaded access cap, and my total bill was $180. Methinks you got robbed....
--billyM
 

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The old joints in those soil stacks were originally joined with molten lead and a rope called oakum, I think. Some had rubber. I would think you need a wider sleeve. I would google 4" to 4" cast iron sleeves and see if there is a wider one. The metal strapping looks too flimsy. Why is the run horizontal? Is this before the soil stack/vent? I agree that the cast iron needs to be aligned and tightened. You can even buy sleeves to join pvc to cast iron. For that price, you deserve some satisfaction

I even had to buy a rubber sleeve to join my 6" clay sewer pipe to the cast iron 4" pipe leaving my house. I also put in a cleanout when I did that job, like Billy. It's fun standing ankle deep in sewage. Google cast iron sleeves and adapters, etc, and have some info to use when you talk to them. Where da supra pummers at?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is the culprit.



The guys are here now putting 4" fittings on. Problem solved. Billy, I got a bit excited on that seam.....10-4 on the casting mark.
 

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Another leaking seam somewhere else in the ceiling?

Good lord, how much horizontal 4" pipe do you have?

Doug, luckily for me it was only gray-water, but still a dirty stinky job. I have since installed a code-breaking second p-trap that vents straight to outside as the lowest point in my house, so if the sucker ever backs up for any reason, bam, outside, not making a poop-swimming-pool out of my refinished basement.

--billyM
 

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I have since installed a code-breaking second p-trap that vents straight to outside as the lowest point in my house, so if the sucker ever backs up for any reason, bam, outside, not making a poop-swimming-pool out of my refinished basement.

--billyM
Well, Billy-san. If you did have a poop-swimming pool, we all know it would not stink.
-Aaron
 

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I should have seen this sooner;

Only three things to learn to be a plumber:
1) Hot is on the left
2) S**t flows downhill
3) Do not bite your nails
 

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Nicer looking clamp, did you do it or did they come back? And what about the other leak? What happened to that one?
 
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