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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Celicasupra.com. I am ready to get my car running after who knows how long.
I have a motor that was destroyed when an oil line that was capped off for the oil cooler came off on the highway.
I drove it more than I should after that and one of the rod bearings (which was already knocking badly) is completely toast.

I stored the motor for 15 years or so due to work / family. It was in a container that had moisture so there is quite a bit of rust.

I would like to go through this journey of my first engine rebuild online on the cs.com forums where I learned most of my car and mechanical knowledge many years ago.

Here is what I saw of the motor when I opened the container...
4D9BBAF8-E8BD-4B25-B956-8BA9890089B3.jpeg

After a 5 min PB blaster soak I got this.
7D337AB8-E298-4054-B176-B15B2590C8C1.jpeg 4FD42E98-F29E-4295-A4F2-71FBAAD7E1DD.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are the pistons... EFF77926-A7A5-4DE0-863F-3856F052CB60.jpeg 4C6C47DE-8B40-4C1F-94E4-15F1BCBA653B.jpeg E8DBC30A-F808-4261-9A74-A9BA65A29772.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
And here... 707198F6-209C-424F-B239-D864D7B12F64.jpeg 75214BFF-A920-4D04-AC32-D9039DF4DDEC.jpeg
 

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Hey! Welcome back!

This is usually the point where people start 2jz swaps lol.... but I'll watch either way. I have a complete 7mgte setup that needs a little love like this too if I ever do anything with it. Swapping/updating is a good idea, but when you already have it all it can be appealing just to fix the old 7m.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am actually thinking of a 1jz swap but we will see. Never having rebuilt a motor before I wanted to try it on this 7m first.
 

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Common 7m pitfalls to watch for when rebuilding...

  • replace the piston squirters if they have a lot of miles. If those springs soften, your peak oil pressure will be lower then spec. Same for the relief spring in the oil pump and the oil bypass for the cooler if you use it.
  • always cut and resize your rods, and have the ends checked for roundness
  • go with fitted bearings on all the crank journals, aftermarket standard sized ones often will leave you with tolerances too loose. Some block/crank combos with really even numbers can work, like 2s and 3s, but if you have 1s, 4s, 5s etc standard. There is a stamping on your block telling you what sizes the factory used, its all in the FSRM.
  • have the crank checked for roundness and straightness, polish the journal surfaces etc.
  • machine the front inner timing cover down with the block, with it bolted on. Its really common to get oil leaks between the 2 if you don't machine them together (and insure they are mounted 100% flush on final assembly)
Looks like you need an overbore and new pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
as always so much helpful information on this forum. I was on the 350z forum for a while, just not the same.

I didn't know about the oil squirters, good to know.
Anyway this motor is probably toast, but I will continue disassembly and measurement of all components and post the pics here so that if some of these parts are of any use I can offer them to the community.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not looking good.
58D30FAF-6120-4EE4-B829-3B87A01B1DE4.jpeg F1409DC7-620C-4E68-8D3C-67CE55181C34.jpeg 68C8E015-88F5-468F-B1FA-381CC6B9C000.jpeg
 

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The bearing is supposed to take the beating, how does the matching crank journal look...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I didnt have a chance to explain the pics.

Piston 3 in the top pic has no bearing at all, its the inside of the rod that we are looking at. I will measure I.D. to see how much it has worn. The bearing is stuck on the crank pin.
The crank journals look ok as does the crank overall. I have to clean it up and measure it properly. I'll add more pics tonight. My concern was the amount of rust on the cylinder walls.
 

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Its not the cylinder walls you have to worry about. Even if it hadn't rusted, you likely would have had to overbore and buy new pistons anyways. Machine shops almost never rebuild a motor without overboring.

Its everything else. You don't want to have grind your crank or any other mating surfaces. Get the block hot tanked, it will save you a lot of work.
 
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