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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I read thru the whole thread titled " You know you drive a Supra when....." and I did not come across this item.

I have just started driving my Supra after passing the emissions test thanks to the help I got here and have noticed that when I use the turn signals (left or right) that the in dash battery guage sways back and forth in sync with the blinking of the turn signals.

Normal? Or what should I be looking for to correct this?

Thanks for all the help!

Sean
 

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It is normal, everyone with an older Toyota gets use to it. I know that a few people have tried to fix the issue, but nothing solid has ever come of it.
 

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mine does too. i would guess that maybe doing a higher output alternator swap might prevent it but im not that up on car electronics. correct me if someone knows for sure please.
 

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mine does too. i would guess that maybe doing a higher output alternator swap might prevent it but im not that up on car electronics. correct me if someone knows for sure please.
Higher-output does not solve the problem, Mine puts out 140A, and the gauge still dances, but I also have an aftermarket one in the Celipra also, and that one does not dance.
 

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mine does it with the blinkers, but if I play my subs crazy it doesn't move. I have a big capacitor though.
 

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Higher-output does not solve the problem, Mine puts out 140A, and the gauge still dances, but I also have an aftermarket one in the Celipra also, and that one does not dance.
ok. i wasnt sure. it was just a thought. i havent had any experience with a different alternator.
 

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ok. i wasnt sure. it was just a thought. i havent had any experience with a different alternator.
I was thinking the same thing before I did my swap, but it did not change the movement. I think that it has an issue with measuring draw across the whole elec system since it will also go down from the "normal" 14v when the lights or fans are on, but the aftermarket gauge stays a little above 14v.
 

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I swapped out the 60amp stock alt with the 80amp camry alt and upgraded the major grounds in the engine bay (head to chassis, negative terminal to chassis, and block to negative terminal) to 4 AWG wire and installed a fused 4 AWG wire running from the alt straight to the battery and the needle still dances with my turn signals.

The gauge also drops to close to 12.5 or 13 at idle which could probably be fixed with an overdrive pulley on the alt, but I ain't worried about that. Soon as I give it some gas the alt jumps back into action.
 

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I've got the 80amp camry alt. also and mine still dances with the turn signals, as well as when I apply the brakes. It seems to have gotten worse, so I probably need to check/clean my grounds. When I hit the brakes recently, or turn on the signals or interrior fan, the bat. guage drops to around 12v, then works it's way back up to 14v after a second... Overall I'm happy with the 80amp set up though. Still need to install my 2F Capacitor for my sub in the back though.
 

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I have a 120 amp alt. I have a yellow top optima. upgraded wires. good grounds. same shit. My stereo barely moves gauge even though I am Cap less. 14.2 at an idle though :)

No fix for the goofy electrical gauge. I never really trust that thing anyways. Good ruff idea, but not always right on the money.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to all who posted. Glad to know that the gauge moving is a normal thing.

I was just surprised to look down and see it moving.

Thanks again.

Sean
 

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I've got the 80amp camry alt. also and mine still dances with the turn signals, as well as when I apply the brakes. It seems to have gotten worse, so I probably need to check/clean my grounds. When I hit the brakes recently, or turn on the signals or interrior fan, the bat. guage drops to around 12v, then works it's way back up to 14v after a second... Overall I'm happy with the 80amp set up though. Still need to install my 2F Capacitor for my sub in the back though.
I'm capless and will probably never add a cap. I just try and tune the system so that it hits hard without actually drawing a lot (ie making the needle dance haha). My needle also falls close to 12 when applying the breaks. It doesn't go to 12v, but definitely lower than running voltage.

The main thing to watch/listen for is belt squeal from the alternator. If you have your alt belt tensioned correctly, whether it's a 60 amp alt, 80 or 260, I'm thinking the alt isn't really in danger. That was the main thing watching that needle dance had me thinking about. I didn't want to be running through alts. I do want a higher output alt (some of you may be hearing from me about yours) but we all know that won't fix the needle.
 

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My needle also falls close to 12 when applying the breaks. It doesn't go to 12v, but definitely lower than running voltage.
That is just because of the brake lights, I am sure you already know that, but just making sure.
 

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Yea, and I also noticed I spelled brakes wrong haha.

The brake lights draw a fair amount, apparently more than a bass drum hit on the sound system easily, but with everything upgraded she shoots back up soon as I take my foot off the brake (I tend to sit at a light in neutral anyways).

I don't worry about the needle anymore though, long as the belt doesn't start squealing I'm content.
 
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