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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I happened not very long probably a month or so, My 83 Mk2 1jz start to drain the battery. If I have it start every day than it won't be a problem but if I let it sit a few days than battery got very low voltage and can't start the engine. Anyone had this problem or so solution, because I'm tired of recharging the battery.

Thanks.
 

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Sounds like you have a draw on the battery somewhere. Lights? Stereo? Tough to find a voltage draw, but easy to find out if that's really the issue.

Start your car and hit the battery with a volt meter. Should read about 12.5 volts at idle. Higher voltage at higher revs, nearly 14 volts.

When you shut off the car and remove the key, your battery should be sitting at or near 12 VDC. If it's not, as in 11 VDC or lower, then your battery is probably toast. It's not holding a proper charge. Remove the battery and have it tested. Be prepared to buy a new one.

If it's sitting at 12 VDC, and steadily losing voltage.... 11.9.... 11.8.... 11.7..........11.6.... then it's a voltage draw and you need to find out what's still "ON" and using power.

Lastly, when you're car is running, if your battery isn't showing 12.5 to 14 VDC, then your alternator isn't pumping out what it's supposed to be. If that's the case, remove the alternator, and have it checked. It's either the brushes inside, which can be replaced, or the capacitor inside which can also be replaced. 8 out of 10 times, it's the brushes, rarely is it the capacitors. Almost never is it the whole unit. But have it tested anyways. Schmucks, or almost any automotive store will do it for free.

Good luck!
 

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My 1jz PCM died and shorted out the board, it killed the optima I had in it. If you can't find the draw anywhere pull the PCM apart an look for a burned out board.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine doesn't have alarm. My battery is new and alternator is new. Only what I can think of is the wiring from the car to the 1j ecu. I have after market cd player but that just hooked up with plug and play.
 

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Ok...there's a simple diagnosis for this man. You'll need a 12v test light, and a wrench to take your negative battery cable off. Take the battery cable off the battery terminal, connect the alligator clip to the negative terminal and touch the probe to the negative battery terminal on the battery. You should 'barely' be able to see the light bulb light up (most cars memory is about 50-75 milliamps...just enough to turn the bulb filament orange). If the bulb lights bright, you've got a draw somewhere in the car. Best thing to do in that case is have someone hold the test light on the battery terminal while you go around the car and start unplugging suspect items. I'd start at the alternator first. The rectifier bridge's diodes are usually the first thing to fail in these old cars. If that doesn't change anything, go to the ECU and give that a try. Obviously you may have to continue this until you find something that shuts the light off on the test light...but its an easy way to eliminate circuits from a trouble shooting standpoint. Good luck!
 

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I had what I thought was parasitic draw and couldn't figure out what was causing it. I upgraded the alternator to battery connector with a heavy gauge wire and it solved my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm going to try a step at a time. I will put a switch for the b+ wire from the chasis to the ecu and wait couple day and see if it still do the samething. will let you guy know what happen.
 

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i had a 89 crx that did the same thing and it ended up bein the power locks trying to lock and unlock.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Result still the same even though put a switch on the B+ wire to the ecu. will check for somthing else later.
 

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You have a short in your wiring then. With that switch turned to the off postision, get a test light and start testing your fuses in your fusebox in the driver's compartment and in the engine bay. Once you find the fuse that lights up your test light, you have found which circuit is shorted. Then you follow the wires for that circuit until you find the short.
 

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You have a short in your wiring then. With that switch turned to the off postision, get a test light and start testing your fuses in your fusebox in the driver's compartment and in the engine bay. Once you find the fuse that lights up your test light, you have found which circuit is shorted. Then you follow the wires for that circuit until you find the short.
Oh yeah?? What happens when he gets to the dome light circuit and the test light comes on?

My previous post on diagnosing this issue is the more conventional method for determining the cause of a parasitic draw on the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have found couple b+ wires that I connect to the ecu melt and stick together. Don't know why. It start to snow and too cold to work on it. Will post an update when get to it.
 
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