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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So because I am really wanting to get my FFIM done, I know the first step is gonna be to get my battery moved to the hatch.

I was going to mount it in the spare tire well and run my cable from there.
Planning on using 0 gage cable (possible 00 if I can find some flexible stuff at a good price).

But my question is about putting a fuse in the positive cable near the battery just to be safe. I dont want to ground out, or pull too much current and fry anything.

My question is how to determine what size fuse to put in there.


A little info about my electrical system:
Average CD deck with 4 average speakers hooked to it.
1 800 watt amp connected to my 2 12" JL audio subs
SAFC, Wideband, and 2 other additional Gauges
Upgraded foglight bulbs (soon to be headlights too).
I have added multiple grounds throughout the engine bay aswell.
80 amp camry alt. upgrade.
 

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You want Flexible???? Kicker makes "Hyper Flex Wire"

My 1/0 is damn near as flexible as a shoe lace. I actually ended up using the Kicker stuff for all my power and ground leads. You can literally tie this stuff into knots.

As for 2/0, probably way overkill.

Does your stereo suck down more juice than your alternator can supply???
I really don't see any need for anything above 100 amp. If you split power from battery to Amp and the rest of the car, You could use an even smaller fuse. Use possibly a 50 or 60 amp fuse for your tunes and 50 or 60 for the rest.

What Ohm are you running your subs at??

Deck shouldn't be an issue at all.

Another thought for ya, they also make large circuit breakers for cars. If your running the battery in the trunk you should have room for one. Im tempted to grab one for my big amp, but not too much room around battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah, I was thinking again that I will be running the power wire to my amp straight from the battery...so the fuse that Im looking for will only be to protect what is drawn to the front of the car.

I know 2/0 is overkill but like I said if the price is right, why not??
 

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http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
This is for the wire gauge.
Watts/Volts = Amperage.


Just remember that fuses are designed to protect the wire, so unless you plan to pull more current in the future, the thicker wire wouldn't really do anything for you. Even though a beefy wire looks BA... I used thicker stuff just because I had it left over from a different car, and it looked cool. Anyway, you've stated that you know it's overkill. Haha


If you split power from battery to Amp and the rest of the car, You could use an even smaller fuse. Use possibly a 50 or 60 amp fuse for your tunes and 50 or 60 for the rest.
Hey one2, I was curious... what does it mean to "split power"? I've heard of that before.
 

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btw 84ptype, are you going to use a battery box? If so, where are you getting it? I've been interested in this for a while now, but don't know what a good brand name box is.
I'd prefer something with a vent hose in it, so I cant vent the Hydrogen gasses to atmosphere.
I could always add the vent hose if the box is legit though.
 

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go to the pull-a-part, look for an E30 body BMW 325, they have trunk mounted batteries, and a nice primary cable leading to it. Get a few of those and there you go.

Ebay, 250A blade style this is what i have in the drag car

Moroso NHRA certified battery box is killer, but an Autozone $25 box will work as well
 

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scott, keep in mind that if you use to big of a fuse for your app then your going to end up having catastrophic failure... which would blow in your car stating the amount of electronics you have. do you plan on running a distribution block? but as far as i can tell i believe a 125amp fuse as close to the battery as possible should be safe. but im not 100% sure. another choice would be is that disribution block... just run 1 wire to the dis block then run 2 out of it. put 2 fuses on both wires that rn out of it. and 1 in betwen the battery and the dis block. so a total of 3. might be alittle over kill but beter safe than sorry
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im only concerned about a fuse on the wire running to the front of the car...not the short power wire that will be running to the amp. I already have an inline fuse for that power wire....

I will be shooting for 0 gauge running off of the battery to the front of the car for that stuff. I will have the amp power wire coming directly off the terminal and going the 1 or 2 feet it will havce to go to get to my amp....that cable from the amp install kit already has an inline fuse.

Ive seen battery relocations done without even using a fuse near the battery, I just would prefer to be better safe than sorry...


Currently thinking of running a 150 amp circuit breaker in the line running to the front of the car (which will not be including stereo amp)
 

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im only concerned about a fuse on the wire running to the front of the car...not the short power wire that will be running to the amp. I already have an inline fuse for that power wire....

I will be shooting for 0 gauge running off of the battery to the front of the car for that stuff. I will have the amp power wire coming directly off the terminal and going the 1 or 2 feet it will havce to go to get to my amp....that cable from the amp install kit already has an inline fuse.

Ive seen battery relocations done without even using a fuse near the battery, I just would prefer to be better safe than sorry...


Currently thinking of running a 150 amp circuit breaker in the line running to the front of the car (which will not be including stereo amp)
with 0 gauge you should be fine then, especially with a 150 circuit breaker... only real thing to worryabout is something grounding off thta isnt suppose to.. but even still i doubt that's the case unless something pinchs it. how do you plan on routing the wire to the front of the car? do you plan on wrapping it in anything or just running it as is?
 

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what type of clip system you using? brackets that your going to bolt into the frame?
 

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hows the battery in your car? another feasible option (i think), would be to buy a battery from a car that has a trunk mounted battery with a vent tube. just weld a tray in and bolt it down. you wouldnt need a box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
battery is kind of on its way out (it dies if the car sits for more than a couple days.....

I have been looking into the optimas (red and yellows) that dont require venting.
 

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Hey one2, I was curious... what does it mean to "split power"? I've heard of that before.
I was just meaning running separate leads for stereo and car.

As far as stereo stuff.... Splitting ohms and different wiring set ups allow you to pull more or less power from amps. With enough subwoofers you can actually run more than one configuration. My last speaker box was running 3 10s (dual 2 ohm coils) in a series. Each sub was wired in parallel. This put me at a 1.67 ohm load. pretty fun when ya get into it.

Yellow Tops FTW!!

Quality has gone down for Optima supposedly. I know the warranty isn't the best. After running the yellow top for a couple years, I won't go back. It works really well with the tunes. Holds plenty of juice. The CCA rating is pretty good as well. This battery almost acts as a capacitor in itself. I beat the shit out of mine on a normal basis. It has held up quite well.

If you hit the Hamilton street exit, Take your first Right at the bottom of the bridge (coming from your side). Down that road a ways there is a battery shop. I got my yellow top for Dirt Cheap there. IIRC it cost me about 160ish.
The shop is almost hidden from that direction. It is right around a rail road overpass. If I get the chance tomorrow I will find my receipt and text ya the info.
 

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I was just meaning running separate leads for stereo and car.

Yellow Tops FTW!!
Ohh gotcha! I never knew that's what it was referred to as.
And yeah.... Yellow Tops are pretty bomb.
I think the fact that you can completely deplete the battery 100%, and it suffers no damage is worth the cost alone. Not to mention they don't suffer damage from vibrations, and can be mounted sideways/upside down... they pretty much do everything... haha
 

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Just a few things to note for those moving to rear-mount batteries.

1: There is a threaded body-ground under a sticker on the passenger side of the spare tire-well. Clean the paint off around it, install one of those standard 10mm-head bolts.

2: Run the wire from the battery DIRECTLY to your starter. Nothing in your car will draw more amperage than your starter, the stud on the starter is big enough to accept a crimped end-connector for your rear-mount battery AND the lead that runs up to the positive terminal as well. Nothing else need be done (other than isolating the positiver termial from ground, and you can easily install a jump-off terminal in it's place.

3: Go through the firewall about 2" to the right of the gas pedal for the most straight-shot through. 20ft will get you exactly where you need to be.

--billyM
 
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