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Center to center on the strut mounting point is 94.3-94.36mm

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Ahh cheers! yeah, that's the typical VAG width. Audi TT rs and golfs are the same ect. Bit of a shame that. offset looked right too!
They are a nice design bracket - so worth "replicating" haha. Supra hole mounting width is 100mm between centres
i would tell you the hole offset -buuuut. trying to sell my big brake kit!
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Im trying to make a design similar. I sent the specs to a friend that's in school for engineering and he took this as a project. I got lucky!!

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Discussion Starter #43
The kit was for a mk3 jetta I think the discs it uses are 26 or 28 can't remember what my buddy said. If this all goes well I'm going to make a kit for 130mm caliper and for the Acura rl since my friend said it was easy to remake from an engineering stand point

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Discussion Starter #45
The brembo over the Range rover rotor... I'm still going to make small progress on this, but!!! I blew my motor Thursday :/


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Nice. I got Audit TT 334mm diameter rotors. They are 31.9mm thick curved vane, high carbon steel. I plan to run Wilwood Forged Superlite Internal calipers, part 120-11136. Already drew up the bracket to have it cut, and it should be here this week. Still have to buy the calipers and have the center bore of the rotors machined to 76mm. Ill post some pics when it is closer to done. Wont be able to run them until the rear 8.8 irs setup is done though.
 

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Yes, Basically the same exact thing Supersubs (Mike) did, but using a 31 spline lsd, 31 spline inner cv's, and 33 spline outer CV's with ZR1 wheel hubs. I have most of the stuff for that as well. Things are just slow going as all this stuff takes $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Didn't mean to wake this from the dead, but I'm not finished yet!
What's the difference with putting rotors over the hub and not...
Thinking about doing 4 brackets now...
1 for a 130mm aftermarket caliper in front and behind the hub.

And the other for the Acura RL caliper, before and after the hub.

The reason is being able to have more rotor options...
Unless someone thinks that's redundant.. help me guys

Be safe, stay diligent and have fun
 

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A couple of things to consider when putting discs over hubs.
1. Center Bore. need a spigot ring to make up the difference of disc and hub diameter, Putting the disc over the hub also takes away a shorter concentric ring that locates the wheel centrally. The thickness of the mounting face of the disc, is usually about 10mm.
If the wheel loses that, then it's putting lots of pressure on the studs = Snap!

2. You will now need longer wheel studs.

3.the inside diameter of the disc bell may be smaller than the outside face of the hub that you want to put it over. Hassle.

4. Weight. Discs with a lower height are lighter. ie A 28mm tall disc will be lighter than a 56mm tall one.

Lastly, the real snag.
for $995, you can buy this set up from T3. and i can't - for the price fault it. Totting up the costs of the calipers, discs and bells, pads and hoses included. I make big brake kits, and i can't come close to that price wise. Wilwoods are awesome too
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ma60/300mm-big-brake-kit-ma60

 

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Also, what nobody ever seems to talk about is the overlooked important factor about larger bore master cylinder. When you look at other performance cars of the time, with bigger 4 pot brakes JZA80 twin turbo supra's & R32,33,34 GTR skylines for example all run 1.11/8" Brake master cylinders.
Mk2 Supra's are 15/16" bore. Later Mk3's have have a 1" bore one. Though the mk3 1" is longer stroke than the mk2 as well.

The best and largest one to get for big brakes front and rear is the Land Cruiser J8 1-1/16" from 1992 to 2003 Toyota part numbers 47201-60460 or 47201-60400
 

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Discussion Starter #52
dude.. i never thought of the hub... awww poop. i heard the NSX disc could be rigged up to be installed behind the hub.
 

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It can without RCA's installed, otherwise it will rub on the LCA ball joint lip. I tried a set of the 3.2 NSX front discs and with T3 RCA's on, no good. Ground on the inside of the disc face.
You could always order the same discs i use?! Most UK Car places ship to the U.S.
All you have to do is redrill to 4 x 100mm with 10mm holes and 76mm center bore. Easy as that!

https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/en/catalogue/size?producttype=Disc&diameter=305&th=28&a=28

Or these. go under 15" wheels.
https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/en/catalogue/disc/09-A185-14
 

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Discussion Starter #54
well those would work for me, but for people that dont want to do much research and be able to walk into a store to get them??

i noticed that i think you tried the later model NSX rotor i think after 1997 which is a 297 X 28mm with overall height of 36.2mm. 90-97 has a 282 X 28mm and the overall height is 36mm. i really think the earlier model NSX would work with the RL caliper, since i think those guys run those already as an upgrade
 

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Heres specs from centric


Be safe, stay diligent and have fun
Yeah, i used the 297mm ones. Neither disc will be any good though because they are both 36mm tall. It's too much. It's 10mm more inboard than standard, and you will run into troubles.
Check out this picture.
[/url]Untitled by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

The brake disc is a 305 x 28mm tall - 28mm thick disc. It's inner face is 6mm clearence away from rubbing the LCA ball joint edge that connects the steering arm - and the strut above. If you bring the disc inboard that 6mm - you get 34mm - and the inner surface of the disc touching the LCA. I will give it a 1mm tolerance for reason sake, but It's far too close to risk with brakes.
I have used 34mm tall discs for the 302mm 15" wheel kit, and it will clear on the cars i have tested. But also expecting someone to have clearance issue with it one day!

Besides, even if a guy wants to buy a kit off you, and buys the discs, you still have to go to a machine shop and drill the 4x100mm pcd and turn out the Center Bore 6mm. With the NSX being a 5 stud 4 x 114.3 drilling, It's messy doing the redrilling for 4x100. Holes overlap and looks shite.

All the other people doing Big brake kits now are 2 piece discs and bells. It makes sense and rather than trying to find the excalibur of brake discs - you now just have to work out make a disc bell that's got an undercut the same thickness as the material. Ie if using 10mm thick aluminum where it bolts onto the hub - the backspacing will be 10mm deep. Then the Brake disc will be totally in line with the hub mounting face. Piece of piss!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
lol Excalibur!!! ugh, im not giving up. but you are right. do they make a slotted disc? i couldnt find any on ebay. i guess ill save the range rover rotor for the 5 bolt starion swap
 

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Also, what nobody ever seems to talk about is the overlooked important factor about larger bore master cylinder. When you look at other performance cars of the time, with bigger 4 pot brakes JZA80 twin turbo supra's & R32,33,34 GTR skylines for example all run 1.11/8" Brake master cylinders.
Mk2 Supra's are 15/16" bore. Later Mk3's have have a 1" bore one. Though the mk3 1" is longer stroke than the mk2 as well.

The best and largest one to get for big brakes front and rear is the Land Cruiser J8 1-1/16" from 1992 to 2003 Toyota part numbers 47201-60460 or 47201-60400
I actually have thought of this. I have been running a mk3 power booster and 1in master for over a decade. I may go to the Land Cruiser master if needed, but I shouldn't with the Wilwood calipers as they work fine with the stock master which is smaller diameter and stroke. I shall find out one way or another though. With my 13.15in fronts and 12in rears, I am sticking with the same pistons sizes as my JK kit. 1.75in pistons front, and 1.38 pistons rear. More than adequate. The larger front rotors are more to fill in the 18in SSR's I will be running. The JK kit wont bolt to my 5 lug hubs anyway so custom was necessary anyhow.

Here are the specs of my rotors, they are directional high carbon steel, so different part number for each side. Just have to have the center bore enlarged to 76mm. I already got spacers to take up the difference for the 15.5mm bolt holes, though wondering if the hub can be drilled out to m12 bolts so I can run shoulder bolts with 14mm shoulders as they likely use 14mm bolts as the holes are 15.5mm. I have hardened washers and 12.9 grade socket cap bolts the right length for the stock m10 thread to mount these rotors though. They are longer than stock to accommodate the hardened washer and lock washer of course.

 
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