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Blew a coolant line... HELP!!!

2421 Views 22 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  xsoarerx
OK Im strandid at work right now and hoping someone will chime in here.... I blew a coolant line on my way in this morning. Its the line that runs from the back top of the head between the valve trains to the firewall (not into the firewall to the heater core) . The hose bends up over the valve train and covers, do I need a specific part to get it to bend up and over the valve train without touching it?

PLLLLLLLEASE HELP! I need to make a run to a parts store!
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I dont think so, you should be able to replace it as long as its the same size

HTH, laterz
An 18"-24" long piece of 5/8" heater hose will get you home and keep warm air coming out of the heater 'til you can get the molded one. It got me through in a pinch!
You can also buy heater hose with wire wound inside the rubber. You can use that instead of buying the factory hose. You can tie that stuff in knots.
I've had one break there, right at the conection going to the head. I got my car home by taking the clamp loose, cutting off the section that had went bad around the clamp itself, and then puttting it back together and refilling with water to get me home. Actually,.. I think I'm still runnign that way on my Maybe that will get you home though,.. if that's where it broke for you. Just my 2 cents... :wink:

anyone tried copper water heater hose? that'd never break. lol
managed to find a piece that would fit, had to get a right angle bend to run it down inbetween the valve trains, buts it's working! THANKS EVERYONE!!!!!!!!
I replaced mine when I put my 6m in and just used 5/8 inch heater hose to replace it.
i still like the idea of all metal coolant lines. never break again! i'm gonna do that when i get my 7mgte. galvanized steel upper and lower coolant lines and heater hoses. lets see me get stranded with a blown coolant line then!
Solid coolant lines? Will go well with the solid motor and trans mounts you will need. :shock:
i thought about that and still haven't found a way around that. ALL engine noise would tgo to the cabin and any lil vibration would be felt inside. oh well maybe i'll just get braided steel hoses...or replace them when they're suppposed to be lol
If you buy Toyota rubber parts, like belts and hoses, they seem to be good for around 15 years.

I buy very few non-Toyota parts. With our discount, it seems like a better choice if you want to keep the beast long term.
"If you buy Toyota rubber parts, like belts and hoses, they seem to be good for around 15 years. "

I agree, that's why I bought the genuine toyota hose when mine leaked. Worst hose to leak-antifreeze gets all over engine. I think the hose was at least $30-maybe more I can't remember; Toyota parts usually on the expensive side.
yeah i'm pretty sure my lower coolant hose is the origional one. the upper one was replaced with some 7 dollar crap that i had to cut to fit right. but that's okay. i just keep watching it to make sure it doesn't decide to go. 30 sounds about right that's how much my heater hose was...look on the bright side tho it doesn't spray COLD water on your head. that could cause REAL problems.
does it matter if the heater hose is a smaller dia. to the factory hose?

ive jsut done the same thing on my car, it blew about 10 mins from my house so i cut it down and filled the water back up and made it back safely.

i went out and go some blue 5/8 1.5 meter long hose and found out its a couple mill smaller so im not sure if this will impact on the flow of the coolant?

does it matter or not really?

also the part that the heater hose connects to on the head, anyone know the size or part number of that? mines badly rusted and needs replacing.
I had the same problem, wound up buying a brass 90 deg fitting and added a couple of extra hose clamps.
xsoarerx said:
found out its a couple mill smaller so im not sure if this will impact on the flow of the coolant?

does it matter or not really?

Well, don't use a straw...


But a couple millimeters shouldn't matter.

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The hose deteriorating where it connects to the back of the head is a common problem. The hose fitting/nipple in the head has a tendency to rust over time and the resulting rough edge of the fitting gradually cuts through the hose. You definitely don't want to use any type of a metal hose in that area since engine vibration would cause a metal hose, including flexible copper or brass water heater hoses to crack. You might try replacing both the hose fitting and the hose with OE parts from Toyota. The price for both shouldn't be too much.

Have you checked the suicide hose??
well thats good... 4 mm shouldnt matter but ill watch how it goes.

and dave.a. i think thats excatly whats happened, the fitting has rusted away leaving sharp edges and has cut the hole (from what it looked like).
so im going to have to replace it anyway.

and with the "suicide hoes" is this the hose running from the ISCV, to the ISCV or something completly different?

i.e. (from my searching)

"Replace the "suicide hose" - a coolant hose under the air intake, AKA Coolant Bypass hose #1"

"If it isn't the thermostat itself, it is the "Coolant Bypass Hose," better known as the Suicide Hose"

can anyone cleear that one up for me?
i cleaned my ISCV and it seamed fine on both connections to the ISCV.
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is the piping running from underneath of the intake and around the back of the block and heading out to the work bence the suicide hose? because from what ive read it looks like it would be a bitch to get too. :sadsmilie
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