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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
been a lurker for quite sometime and the last couple dayes ive been banging my head against the dashboard trying to figure this issue out.


I have an 83 P Type with Auto A/C

The blower motor is not working, A/C switch isn't working (compressor is not hooked up) either. I tested the blower motor with 12v straight to it and it spins up and is quite strong.

Relays click for the following modes
off > auto
auto > low
low >med

med > high does not work unless you wiggle the fan speed and you can hear the relay clicking..

I've hooked a test light up and im getting voltage to all of the relays. The resistor is very very old and very corroded.

What relays/fuses/resistors all take part in making the blower motor turn on/off?

Im grabbing a volt meter today and checking voltage at the blower motor and other things.. any tips? Thanks


does anyone have a picture or diagram of the passenger side kick panel fuse block for an 82/83? There is a heat seat relay and a block for a bunch of others that are missing i want to make sure nothings missing that should be there.
 

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u might need a blower resistor. contact mark at the vendor section. he is really good and will give u a good deal.

when the blower resistor goes bad, some speeds might work o none of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is there anyway to jumper the resistor to high speed just to test?
 

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test ? put 12 v directly to the blower motor conector, if it turns u have a good motor, and a bad blower resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
test ? put 12 v directly to the blower motor conector, if it turns u have a good motor, and a bad blower resistor.
i may have a blown relay somewhere. id like to eliminate the resistor, jumper the resistor connector just to make sure.

If i jumpered the resistor and the fan turns on high speed then i know its the resistor.

If it doesnt turn on i save $11 and get further along in diagnosing the problem.. It still could be a relay. but without either replacing the resistor or jumpering the resistor i wouldnt know.
 

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The blower resistor is bypassed when the blower switch is on High. This means that the blower should run at high speed even if the blower resistor is bad. You might try checking the blower high speed relay if the blower won't run at high speed. The blower switch itself could also be at least part of your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
okay.
after doing some rummaging around Im pretty sure the Heater relay, and the A/C Circuit Breaker are BOTH missing from the passenger side kick panel.

Anyone confirm the location of these as being in the passenger side kick panel?

If they are missing i believe its a culmination between Resistor, Missing relay, Missing C/B, Buggered up Switch

Regardless, new resistor is on order and avail for pickup on monday from my local supplier. Ill be sourcing an idler a/c pulley and the C/B, Heater Relay this week sometime.. hopefully it fixes the problem.
 

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Yes I can vouch for them being on the pass side kick panel. My blower was not working when I bought the car, I bought a new motor, that didn't work then I got a parts car that did have heat and a working blower. I switched the relay that was called "the a/c relay" in the pass side kick panel and it works fine now. The relays are expensive from Toyota $25.00, I found a bunch of them in a Cressida and so you can look in the junk yard for them, they are also possibly able to be re-set ( I was told that after I bought the $25.00 one so I didn't try it I just used the new expensive one) you have to push in a little metal piece through a hole on the top of it to re-set it. I have a couple if you need one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes I can vouch for them being on the pass side kick panel. My blower was not working when I bought the car, I bought a new motor, that didn't work then I got a parts car that did have heat and a working blower. I switched the relay that was called "the a/c relay" in the pass side kick panel and it works fine now. The relays are expensive from Toyota $25.00, I found a bunch of them in a Cressida and so you can look in the junk yard for them, they are also possibly able to be re-set ( I was told that after I bought the $25.00 one so I didn't try it I just used the new expensive one) you have to push in a little metal piece through a hole on the top of it to re-set it. I have a couple if you need one.
I need the 5 Pin Relay and the 2 or 3 pin C/B thats on the kick panel.. infact i probably need all of those relays on that kick panel.. Seems all of them are missing..

how much shipped to 85282? PM me a price, lets work a deal :32:
 

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I can verify that the C/B can be reset. My pass side footwell has some water damage, and C/B is on its last legs, but still resets. Diagnostic Tool(paperclip) works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't think I have the 5 pin one but I will look. As for the 2 pin ones I got from the J/Y I will see if I can send one out here in the near future. Do you have the plugs for them in the kick panel, just nothing in the plugs??? That just seems wierd. Did you buy a parts car??
A friend flew down from Wyoming to pickup his MK2, and this one was given to him free. It wasnt running and since it wasnt running he couldnt drive it back.. So he gave it to me..

The fuel system (fuel tank, intake plenum, injectors) were all taken off the car and the engine was left open for 8 years. The car sat for 8 years in the sun... A weekend worth of work i cleaned the fuel tank out, replaced the fuel pump and all of the o rings and gaskets and hoses.. put the intake side back together and she fired right up after sitting open for 8 years. Now its just a matter of getting the a/c, and heat working and fixing an exhaust leak and shell be a very good MK2 :)... until the 7M goes in.

Judging from the amount of douchery going on with some other things on the car (silicone sealed interior pieces, random wiring etc) it doesn't surprise me the stuff is missing.

And yes i do have the pinouts on the blocks theyre just missing..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got my C/B from MikeMac today. Thx man!

Just need to source the Heater relay now and hook it all up to see if it works.
 
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