Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have no clue how it happened but my head gasket blew, didn’t notice any overheating or anything, next thing I know the car is shaking at idle and smoking.
Tried a couple magic sealants from the store, neither worked so I have no choice but to replace the gasket. Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem like any shop wants to work on it, which isn’t surprising. I’m going to do it with my dad out at our shop, I know nothing about cars and rely on him for everything. However, he’s not very familiar with Japanese engines, much less the 5mge. Any advice for this procedure would be much, much appreciated! Anything specifically difficult or important to look out for when replacing the head gasket? Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,222 Posts
Me too...

MK2 TSRM On-Line (cygnusx1.net)

It's a big job, I suggest taking lots of notes and pictures. Gather as many of the important "bit" as you can, finding small gaskets, bolts and other what-not in the middle of a rebuild can be a real PITA.

MSS strikes again | Toyota Celica Supra Forum
I'm right there with you and I feel your pain, I'm using a sealer (something I said I'd never do to my supra). At to moment, it appears to be holding but I'm not confident it will last.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,767 Posts
Download the TSRM and follow all the steps about the process. The only thing to do differently is the final torque of the headbolts to be at 75ftlb.
There is nothing very difficult about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
Yeah, manual provides all info needed! Just take your time, study manual, gather any special tools needed. I've replaced headgasket in parking-lot of Willow Springs Sat. night to get back into races on Sunday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I have no clue how it happened but my head gasket blew, didn’t notice any overheating or anything, next thing I know the car is shaking at idle and smoking.
Tried a couple magic sealants from the store, neither worked so I have no choice but to replace the gasket. Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem like any shop wants to work on it, which isn’t surprising. I’m going to do it with my dad out at our shop, I know nothing about cars and rely on him for everything. However, he’s not very familiar with Japanese engines, much less the 5mge. Any advice for this procedure would be much, much appreciated! Anything specifically difficult or important to look out for when replacing the head gasket? Thanks!!
Have the head checked at a machine shop for warping. I had mine warp when the temp guage was just approaching the red zone, I turned it off before it got there but the head still warped. Had a machine shop correct it , all good. Its not hard to change but a shop manual would be very helpful. Check online for one. Best luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,234 Posts
Take pics and notes when dismantling. Be sure to note the position of the rotor in the distributor. Supra Bee has a write-up on top end rebuilds, Head gaskets wear out. I'd go with the highest quality gaskets you can buy. The car is worth it.
When the head is off, you can wire brush the top of the pistons, too. There are a few tricks the manual will not have. Sealant when installing the cover plates. Supra Bee can explain. Try to contact him. Also, google the head gasket removal. Many write-ups and Youtube videos out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,234 Posts
For first timers----take parts out, label with a number, put number in notebook. Keep parts in a clutter free area. It's easy to misplace stuff. Stay organized.
 

·
Registered
1984 P-Type
Joined
·
85 Posts
I did a head gasket and thermostat last year.
LOTS of pictures. I fired up the ol' digital camera and shot 1200 or so shots. Still had to come here and ask a few questions even then. Also I went with ARP studs and torqued to 90ft lbs in 3 steps. 30/60/90. OR if you re-use your stock head bolts torque to 75 ft lbs in 3 steps.35/55/75.
I just got my car out for the season so I'll be checking the torque on the head studs. I put about 300km on it.

Also check the front timing plate and make sure if the head or block was machined the front plate was too or else by-by head gasket. The timing cover needs to be at the same level as the head or block. There should not be a lip there. That's whet took out my head gasket. The shop that did mine way back had the head decked but not the cover. The front cover stuck below the head surface by about a 16th of an inch. Lasted 120km then puked. In the picture below I had just finished CNC machining the front cover level with the head. (The front timing cover is that thin piece of metal bolted to the front of the head with the three orange lights on it.)
Bumper Automotive exterior Musical instrument accessory Auto part Bag

CNC machine:
Wood Audio equipment Auto part Circle Metal

Lastly the head gasket requires RTV sealant on the front 3/4" of it top and bottom to seal properly. I also added a coating of copper gasket spray on the head gasket ( I masked off the area where the RTV was going to be ) just to add a little more stick.

While you are there do a water pump, suicide hose and thermostat. Cheap insurance.
Motor vehicle Steering wheel Steering part Auto part Car


My water pump and thermostat had gummed up ( sugaring ) when I opened them so all that had to be cleaned out.
Motor vehicle Gas Automotive tire Auto part Automotive exterior

Helmet Gas Bumper Automotive tire Personal protective equipment

I used a fail safe thermostat and a Fel-Pro gasket. This thermostat fails in the OPEN position if it does fail.
Prevents overheating
Automotive tire Font Material property Gas Automotive wheel system


The other thing I recommend is a supply of zip lock bags in various sizes, a roll of clear tape and a sharpie. Write on the bag exactly where the part goes, what it does and put a piece of clear tape over the sharpie so it doesn't get rubbed off.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1984 P-Type
Joined
·
85 Posts
Once you do the job check on the torque. I checked mine today and 5 of the head studs were a little lower than 90ft lbs. I heat cycles the engine 5-6 times and put 300ish km on it after re-installing the head.

Once again ARP studs, torque to 90 ft lbs, Stock head bolts 75 ft lbs
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top