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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My Ford 5.0 HO swap has begun. For anyone interested, I will be keeping this tread updated with the project as I go.

The plan:
Purchase a running 5.0 HO Mustang. (Done) Most of this car is useless except for the engine, trans and accessories. The transmission was replaced with the SVT T5 5 speed about 28k miles.

I have a front sump pan and pickup tube coming Monday. SummitRacing part: SPE-5507 and MEL-68-s.
I hope this won't require a bunch of cutting to fit it as far back as I can. I think a trim on the cross member might be required.

I plan on getting the engine running in the car with the stock ECU before swapping in a MegaSquirt MS3/MS3X.

Once I make the motor mounts and thing fit, I will pull the engine an get the bottom end rebuilt to 10:1 compression.

I'll be dropping an Edlebrock top end kit on it. Heads, CAM, intake, 70mm TB.

I will be keeping the AC and power steering from the Ford and plumbing it to the Supra with some custom lines.

The front half of the Ford driveline will be grafted to the rear half of the Supra's. (I will be keeping the Supra's rebuilt LSD for as long as it holds up) I think I will keep it a 2 piece using the Surpa carrier.

The Ford already has a stock "Shorty" style header. (Kinda crappy) might keep them, or purchase better flowing versions from PaceSetter. It looks like the steering linkage might clear without mods, but I won't know until I drop the Ford in. I plan on running side exiting exhaust just in front of the rear wheels. I think the catalytic converter relief areas will be used for the mufflers and the cats will be just behind the header flanges.

The gauges will not be an issue as I have a full custom AutoMeter setup, so anyone interested in doing this swap will need to figure that out for themselves.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
The only thing close that I have found was a member in Texas iirc that did an older 302 swap fit to the W58 trans. I live in Utah and my ride will need to go through a certification for emissions. There are a few hoops I will need to jump through, but due to the age of the Supra, the long and short is it must pass as well or better than an unmodified version as long as the replacement motor is newer than the motor it replaces. I don't think this will be an issue as my old motor with 280K mi. was still passing last year.

In fact, with the MegaSquirt ECU setup with full seq injection and ignition it should be as clean as a car much newer than the doner.
 

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Bookmarked :)

This is the swap I want to do once the cash is there, but will probably go with the W58 so I don't have to change too much. All the best mate, looking forward to your progress :D
 

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The only thing close that I have found was a member in Texas iirc that did an older 302 swap fit to the W58 trans. I live in Utah and my ride will need to go through a certification for emissions. There are a few hoops I will need to jump through, but due to the age of the Supra, the long and short is it must pass as well or better than an unmodified version as long as the replacement motor is newer than the motor it replaces. I don't think this will be an issue as my old motor with 280K mi. was still passing last year.

In fact, with the MegaSquirt ECU setup with full seq injection and ignition it should be as clean as a car much newer than the doner.
Completely understand since I live in California and there would be a bunch of hoops I would have to jump through to make a swap legal on the street. Looking forward to following your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
First round of parts showed up today. This is the fuel pressure regulator, AutoMeter fuel pressure gauge, oil pan and pickup.
Aeromotive 13103 Ford Fuel Pressure Regulator
Auto Meter 4363 Fuel Pressure

 

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This sounds like it's going to be an awesome swap. Keep us updated Bassman!

I always figured it would be easier to swap the 302 and T-5 together than to do a custom bellhousing for the W58, since the T-5 is smaller dimensionally than the W58 (and heck, it's 25 lbs lighter, too!). I love my W58, but 280-300+ lb/ft wouldn't treat it well for very long.

Good luck and post pictures!
 

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Watching this ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well today I confirmed a fear I have had since the inception of the swap. Will I be able to use the stock hydraulic clutch setup for the W58. The answer is no. I found a video of someone that measured the throw on the cable actuated T5 clutch fork and it measures in at just under 1 inch. (Not from the cable attachment, but inward on the fork where I would be pushing it with the Supra slave.) Today I measured the throw of the hydraulic setup before pulling the trans, and the throw is just over 1/2 inch.

Now my options are:
1: Swap out the master and slave for something that has a throw closer to the Mustang. There are slaves that will work, but they all have a 7/8 inch bore. With the stock Toyota master and slave having a bore at 5/8" there just won't be enough fluid moved to the slave to get an inch of travel. If I replace the master with a 1" bore and use the 7/8' slave everything should work.
2: Adapt the cable. (No way in hell do I want this cable driven)

Anyone swapped out the master on their Supra? I would welcome any suggestions. BTW, I have looked at internal throwout bearing slaves as well, but the stock master will not push enough fluid to these either. And ouch are they spendy!

Here is the link to the W58 vidio for anyone interested:

Here is the link to the video taken by someone else showing the cable throw:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ehbef-5mFE
 

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TheBassMan,

I am using a Land Cruiser clutch MC which has a 0.75" bore. It only increases the throw about 20% over the stock MKII, but it works well for my application...

Regards,

Carlos
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Is that with the stock slave, or the one from the Land Cruiser? I have been afraid that just changing the master that it would over-extend the stock W58 slave.

I just ordered a Land Cruiser master. Looks like it bolts right in. I also ordered a slave that is a retrofit for 70 mustang. I will be able to fabricate a mount from a piece of angle iron to mount it up. I also picked up a 30" braided line that has several AN and tubing adapters.

Part numbers for those interested:
Car Shop Inc.
Slave -1 x PUSH STYLE SLAVE CYLINDER (305B) = $67.95
1 x HYD. CLUTCH LINE 36" (28050) = $33.99

eBay -- autoparts.titan3
Clutch Master Cylinder Centric 136.44415 fits 8587
Toyota Land Cruiser (311188206273) $32.22
 

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TheBassman,

Is that with the stock slave, or the one from the Land Cruiser? I have been afraid that just changing the master that it would over-extend the stock W58 slave.

I just ordered a Land Cruiser master. Looks like it bolts right in.
Yes, the MC bolts right in, much the same as the original does! Also, I have had no problems with mating the LC MC with the MKII slave. Not long ago I replaced the MKII slave with a SC300 slave from a W58 - same fitment and same bore diameter...

Regards,

Carlos
 

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Are you going with 58cc or 61cc heads? I'm not familiar with the Edelbrock top engine kit. What kind of bottom end are you planning on doing? 306?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Are you going with 58cc or 61cc heads? I'm not familiar with the Edelbrock top engine kit. What kind of bottom end are you planning on doing? 306?
Well, crap. I thought I had a top end kit all picked out from Edelbrock, but I must have been looking at the Trickflow. (Which I think has better flowing heads anyway). Edelbrock does not make an EFI top end kit.
This is the kit I'm hoping I will have money for when I'm done: (Wife has set a hard stop limit, and is watching me like a hawk:ugh: )
Trick Flow® 350 HP Twisted Wedge.

Yes 306 bottom end. Not sure what the cc size was, but final compression was 9.5:1.

The more issues I run into that are sapping the funds might force me 1 of 2 directions.
1. Clean up the top end. Port match etc. and run it until I can get the Trick Flow.
2. Go with a SVT top end kit that I will just have to be happy with. The SVT is not bad, and almost meets my HP wishes (310 HP).

My issue right now is I don't know what my issues will be moving forward. That puts the top end kit on the bottom of the list. I have to rebuild the bottom end, and my rear end needs some attention.

I could live with 310 HP. I had a 96 Vette with an LT4 rated at 330. I think the Supra would feel a lot like it did. (But way cooler!)
 

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Well, crap. I thought I had a top end kit all picked out from Edelbrock, but I must have been looking at the Trickflow. (Which I think has better flowing heads anyway). Edelbrock does not make an EFI top end kit.
This is the kit I'm hoping I will have money for when I'm done: (Wife has set a hard stop limit, and is watching me like a hawk:ugh: )
Trick Flow® 350 HP Twisted Wedge.

Yes 306 bottom end. Not sure what the cc size was, but final compression was 9.5:1.

The more issues I run into that are sapping the funds might force me 1 of 2 directions.
1. Clean up the top end. Port match etc. and run it until I can get the Trick Flow.
2. Go with a SVT top end kit that I will just have to be happy with. The SVT is not bad, and almost meets my HP wishes (310 HP).

My issue right now is I don't know what my issues will be moving forward. That puts the top end kit on the bottom of the list. I have to rebuild the bottom end, and my rear end needs some attention.

I could live with 310 HP. I had a 96 Vette with an LT4 rated at 330. I think the Supra would feel a lot like it did. (But way cooler!)
You nailed it by saying more issues. I prelude my story by saying my engine had not been apart in 23 years from the upper intake to the oil pan on my '92 LX. I went one weekend and did valve cover gaskets since the original ones were badly dried out cork, it when downhill from there. On the reassemble I found out my EVAP line going to my EVAP canister was dried out and cracked to allowing for a vacuum leak. No big deal, capped off the port on the upper intake and removed the SMOG pump and installed a shorter engine belt. This time reassembling the upper intake cracked at one of the corners not allowing to seal with the lower intake and caused a vacuum leak. I found a stock HO upper and lower intake on Craigslist and tried to throw that on there and ended up cracking the new one at the same spot so I suspected the lower intake was warped. No big deal, I purchased a refurbished GT40 intake off of Ebay. I removed the lower intake and the front two lower intake bolts broke off in the cast iron heads (which is a very common issue). So now do I drill out the two bolts (which broke off nasty) or find a set of aluminum heads, YUP I ditched those boat anchors for a cheap set of Ebay aluminum heads. After fighting vacuum leaks trying to get Ebay parts to match up my car is finally running, but like everything it can be better. It was quite a learning experience.

Just be cautious when diving into to a time capsule that may not have been open for years and unfortunately be ready to spend money. Luckily prices for SBF are cheap and availability are plentiful.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don't expect to have those "Time Capsule" issues, because I drove my doner to my house. And it's covered in so much oil leakage that I won't need a drop of WD40 :)

My concerns are more header clearance, and wiring, but again, who knows what the future holds?
 

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My vote would be swap the heads now while you've got it apart. You'll save a ton of weight with any aluminum heads vs any iron ones and make more power on top of it. Porting your stockers for now will be a huge time sink as well, and you won't sell em for much more money when you swap em out later anyway. You check the used market? I'm sure you can get a nice cam for cheap, and maybe if you're really lucky some heads too, but i dunno what your local market is like.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Out with the old

Out with the old. Pretty proud that I did this without extra bodies. Engine and trans are out. Time to do some clean up, and reroute fuel lines etc.. :thumbsup: You can just see the doner 5.0 HO mustang in the shot.
 

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Fare thee well, little 5M. Make room for a five-oh.

This is such a cool swap! My 2 cents would be to do the aluminum heads now. Maybe get 'em used, have a machine shop check them over? :whatever:
 
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